complete engine overhaul including head gaskets

[blisters13]

Happy days again!

 

[Diecorpse]

Well I figured some things out. I feel lucky and dumb at the same time, I was going to check my valves again to make sure I had them set right, well, both push rods fell off the valves! Apparently I forgot to tighten the nut when I set the valve. Now since I fixed that and checked my other valves and all was good, I went for a drive and it had power and sounded great!! When I went for a longer cruise, I heard this grinding sound from the tranny. My clutch was slipping. Why? Well when I got back home, I got underneath the truck and checked the bell housing, the drain hole was plugged with permatex, so I pulled it off and about a quart of nasty oil came out of it. I greasesd every grease sert I can find, topped off tranny and transfer case, and went for another drive. This time the clutch only slipped a little, I think later I will spary some break clean in the bell housing and see how it will benefit. I am glad it was all easy fixes. I did reuse the same head, valves and all, and the same fuel injector. Everything is working great!! I still have some minor leaks so those will be future projects. I can't wait to drive my beast again, oh it feels so good and I miss the noisy, bumpy, hot, and joyful ride in the deuce. Also I need to get a spare tire since the one I have, the valve stem broke off from the tube. Looking forward to return the favor to Shawn for helping me, so I plan on helping him check his lash on his valves and play with his fuel injector pump to get his deuce going like it use to. My woman says she's been replaced. "What are you talking about" I said. Shes says " you pay more attention and give your truck everything it needs more than me!!" I said " Yup." Lol.

 

[Diecorpse]

I do want to add a step by step process for changing out the head gaskets for others who are not mechanically inclined. I want to add a list of tools needed and extra parts/ gaskets. I know you can read the tm's but sometimes its a PITA to find exactly what you need to do. Probably be nice to have a list of parts and suppliers as well. Though I'm m sure other members will chime in with tips and parts they may have.

 

[Diecorpse]

I made more adjustments to my truck over the past few weeks, I tweeked the fuel up by one flat, cleaned my bellhousing and greased the throw out bearing, some more minor adjustments to the valve lashes. The truck has been running like a champ. Almost always starts right away and I have more power. The truck will sustain sixty mph on a flat like it use too. However my bellhousing still leaks but not nearly as much as it did. My clutch still slips but only after the truck has been running for a while. I see a rear main and new clutch disc sometime in the future. I have sprung a couple new leaks, but I think it's due to the bolts need re-tightening. I have drove it over 500 miles since the engine was rebuilt. For a first timer, I am satisfied with my work. I still plan on putting a list together for others to easily reference, but I have been working so much lately, I seem to to neglect other things. My apologies. I do thank others for their assistance, especially Gimpyrobb. I could not have been so lucky to get the parts I needed with out him. Also my friend Shawn who helped me with some of the re-assembly and a lift when I needed it. I love and enjoy this hobby!!

 

[Diecorpse]

I would like to give a tip for anybody who has never done a head gasket repair before.

Don't be scared, it's really easy!! Much easier than most car/truck motors.
Purchase a set of standard wrenches if you don't have all the sizes, at least up to 3/4". Same for the sockets in 3/8 1/2 and 3/4 drives. Makes things much easier. I used a 7/8" angled wrench for the head bolts on the side with the ip. Probly want a cheater bar!! I would also order an engine gaskit kit, most include the updated head gaskets. I would get foam cups and masking tape to label bolts and parts. Don't plan on this being an 8 or. 10 hour job, take your time, and pace yourself. Have plenty of rags and goop available. Check and clean all parts you remove. Have a soldier B if possible, the help is priceless, however it can be done solo. Assembly lube will help. Keep a tube of permatex on hand, always comes in handy. A torch and penetrating lubricants will make life easier. A good jack with blocks will be needed if you pull off the oil pan. Hope this smidge of info assists anybody looking at head gasket repair in the future!!

 

[Diecorpse]

Bearing issues

So I rebuild my motor a while ago after melting a piston, cracked two sleeves, and a blwon head gasket, and after a few weeks now my motor grinds and won't stay running. It makes horrible knocking and grinding sounds. I pulled the oil pan off and found tons of metal in there. I think some might be from the previous issue, however some looks like brass, round like the bearings. What caused this issue? It doesn't look like rod bearings but I could be wrong. Any tips or help would help greatly. I am just getting sick and tied of constant fixing all the time. A more reliable mv is desired for sure. Starting to get the five ton itch. Here are some pics of the metal I found. I just hope its an easy fix so I can enjoy the driving of the Deuce.

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

I am young in mechanics but could a lack of proper oil pressure have caused your engine to destroy its bearings?

 

[welldigger]

Id say you need to have a look at the crank and rod bearings. Those chunks could have been from the previously cracked liners but those shavings would have me thinking its time to pull the crank.

 

[Dipstick]

Did you plastigauge the main bearings during the rebuild to make sure you had the proper clearances when torqued? Did you apply Lubriplate break in grease on the bearings during the install? Also, you want to make sure that any lubrication holes in the bearings line up with the holes in the block and rods. Not trying to be a smartass, but these thoughts occurred to me.

 

[Diecorpse]

I am not a mechanics bit from most of you guys, no I did not make sure the holes were lined up, I didn't know about lining them up. I did not gauge the crank or bearings since all looked ok, I reused the bearings but different rod and piston. I applied assembly lube to the bearings from pistons 3 and 5 that had bad sleeves. #3 was melted. I know its bad but my oil pressure gauge does not work, it does sometimes but I think it's shorted or something, other times it works but not for long. I pulled the bearings from 1 and 3 and they looked ok. This was my first large project, I am sure I may have been the source of my current issues unfortunately. My biggest issue is that I have off street parking. One complaint and the city comes over about a inoperable vehicle. At this point, if I can fix it quick enough, no issues, otherwise I have to get rid of it. Which means scrap yard or selling it. I would rather sell it than scrapping it out, but I will fix it until the city says something. I plan on checking the rest of my rod bearings Monday and see if I find my problem.

 

[Diecorpse]

No need to apologize Dipstick, I didn't think you were a smartass. You comment made sense and I completely understand. I would think if I didn't have oil getting to my bearings that I would have had issues sooner but I could be wrong.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Intermittent or low oil pressure can cause that too. Plugged oil ports can cause this. I was taught never to reuse bearings, but can't see why that would be a problem here unless you didn't get them back together with the rod quite right. What did you do for rod bolts? Did you reuse those as well?

 

[m-35tom]

when you say rebuild it seems to me you just mean patched up. a motor that got that hot cannot be rebuilt or repaired in frame. you will have all kinds of issues like did the cam brngs melt? is the cam still straight? is the line bore still straight? is the deck still flat? all the seals and gaskets got hot and will fail, and most important, how would you possibly get all the metal and other debris from all the hidden places and passages in the block? i would not have expected that motor to be economically repairable, much better to get a $500 takeout and freshen it up.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Sorry it didn't work out diecorpse, but it looks like you just need to get a motor to swap in now and save whatever good parts you can off the old motor. And move to somewhere that you can work on your stuff freely. Easier said than done I know. But, like M35tom said, you can get a good takeout motor for 400- 500 bucks or less. I've seen them as cheap as 150 bucks with all the accessories still bolted on.

 

[Dipstick]

Mr. corpse.....I agree 100% with M-35tom and Jeepsinker about replacing your engine with a takeout unit. The damaged engine in your truck could very well have a bad camshaft and many other problems as well. I bet a lot of small metal fragments got pumped through your re-assembled engine when you fired it up. I feel your pain for sure.

 

[Diecorpse]

Well... the positive thing about all this, is that at least I learned how to tear the motor down. I am thinking a take out would probably be my best option at this point. I do appreciate all the advise. I pm a member in in IL who has a motor, so I guess I play the waiting game. If anybody has a motor to sell, please by all means let me know. Thanks.

 

[Diecorpse]

Anybody have a take out or rebuilt that runs? Trying to keep my budget around $500 or so. This will be a 465 ldt multi fuel that I'm lookin for.

 

[Jeepsinker]

No brother! You need to post in the classifieds! Your gonna get flamed!

 

[frank8003]

Good pictures, neat thread.
I wonder if He ever got another engine.

 

[rustystud]

Good pictures, neat thread.
I wonder if He ever got another engine.

He hasn't been on the site for almost two years now.