Connecting the military relay for convoy lights

[kendelrio]

All-
I'm pretty good electronically... but I need to check my brain housing group function on this relay:



I'm hooking my lights up tomorrow and want to make sure I'm doing this correctly.

So:

A-> B is my contactor for the lights?

I go Battery (or hot) on A and connect the light plug to B.

That way, when the coil is energized, the circuit is closed and I have a path for power.

On the second part:

The would go to battery "- "while C is plugged into one side of my switch, and the other side of the switch is connected to battery "+".

If I am correct, I should not have continuity (I'll use a meter to check before hooking up the lights) on A & B until I energize circuit C, correct? That way I know the relay is working?

Next question: If that's the correct setup, is it possible for me to use a 12vdc supply to energize the coil? I have an empty toggle on my overhead console that is already wired for 12vdc and that would be much easier than drilling and mounting the military toggle on the dash.

Last question: The negative lead of the light can be attached to chassis ground on the frame, correct?

I appreciate any and all help.

 

[mgFray]

The:

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  -

Symbol is ground. On vehicles this is usually chassis. I believe all of the M-series vehicles have a neutral chassis ground, so connecting it directly to neutral (-) on the battery or a good ground point on the chassis should be fine.

Edit: reread what you had.. yes. ground to (-), your switch to + and 'C' -- energize it and the relay should switch to 'on'.

 

[kendelrio]

The:

  |
-----
---
  -

Symbol is ground. On vehicles this is usually chassis. I believe all of the M-series vehicles have a neutral chassis ground, so connecting it directly to neutral (-) on the battery or a good ground point on the chassis should be fine.

Edit: reread what you had.. yes. ground to (-), your switch to + and 'C' -- energize it and the relay should switch to 'on'.

Thank you.

Also... light - can go to chassis ground also, correct?

 

[NDT]

That relay will most likely not pull in at half rated voltage.

 

[Mullaney]

All-
I'm pretty good electronically... but I need to check my brain housing group function on this relay:

View attachment 845454

I'm hooking my lights up tomorrow and want to make sure I'm doing this correctly.

So:

A-> B is my contactor for the lights?

I go Battery (or hot) on A and connect the light plug to B.

That way, when the coil is energized, the circuit is closed and I have a path for power.

On the second part:

The View attachment 845457 would go to battery "- "while C is plugged into one side of my switch, and the other side of the switch is connected to battery "+".

If I am correct, I should not have continuity (I'll use a meter to check before hooking up the lights) on A & B until I energize circuit C, correct? That way I know the relay is working?

Next question: If that's the correct setup, is it possible for me to use a 12vdc supply to energize the coil? I have an empty toggle on my overhead console that is already wired for 12vdc and that would be much easier than drilling and mounting the military toggle on the dash.

Last question: The negative lead of the light can be attached to chassis ground on the frame, correct?

I appreciate any and all help.

.
Maybe you got a Version 2.0 Convoy Light Kit?
Mine just has a simple switch. Big fat juicy military switch that snaps on and snaps off. Not really sure what that relay is all about...

As everybody else said, frame ground on everything. I used two-wire to feed the lights. One wire for power, the other for ground because that "pole inside a pole" would be a pretty crummy ground. Two-Wire feeds to the base of the pole where the "coiled cord" runs up the pipe...

Since you have the cover off on the rotating beacon - Those are 24v bulbs - Right?

 

[kendelrio]

Since you have the cover off on the rotating beacon - Those are 24v bulbs - Right?

Just checked... 12vdc lights.

I have already touched them to 24vdc and they worked fine.

 

[marchplumber]

uhmmmmm, if they aren't LED, they might be "fine" for a short time, but the filaments might not care too much for the extra voltage. IDK, I ain't a "sparky", but an old "wood butch" who makes the POO go away. LOL

Maybe some 24v bulbs before ya get her all together, simple trip to O'Reilly's here or Amazon.

 

[juanprado]

If they are rotators, need to change the motors to 24v or I don't think they will last long.

 

[NDT]

I think it might be two 12 volt bulbs in series. Tacom typically didn’t screw up that bad.

 

[INFChief]

That relay goes to tanks, M110A2, etc. When I was in we simply hard wire the beacon lights to a switch that was wired from the batteries or an aux connector.

 

[kendelrio]

I think it might be two 12 volt bulbs in series. Tacom typically didn’t screw up that bad.

You are correct. 2x12vdc lights in series.

 

[kendelrio]

Ok- update-
(Thank God for my multimeter and a scratch sheet).

Through the process of elemination and my pickup truck battery, I figured out the relay and got plenty of answers to questions I had.

Here is the wiring:

C is power in.
B to chassis ground

A will be voltage out.

Also, 12vdc will actuate the relay, but of course I need 24 to run the lights.

So the way it will be wired is:

Power to one side of switch. C to other side of side of switch.

B to chassis ground

A to hot side of lights.

Thanks everyone for your help!

Now on to mounting!