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Contemplating a Bobber! To do or not to do that is the question!

Broke Down

Member
166
3
18
Location
Pineville,LA
No problem, if it were me I would keep it simple with the build as far as the engine goes. You can always set the engine a little lower if needed and I know for sure it is narrower than a V8 or multifuel. Find you some od green paint and paint it, not too many people will catch it right off hand plus you can go to the parts store to grab filters and common parts. You can run the deuce t-case divorced on the back of your trans. You have 4 manual trans to choose from that came in a dodge, Getrag 5spd, NV4500 5spd, NV5600 6spd, G56 6spd. Then you can always get a chevy style adapter plate for a Chevy NV4500 or the Ford ZF6 trans. You have plenty of options to choose from.
 

nattieleather

Well-known member
1,882
142
63
Location
Cleveland, OH
Automatic trans with a Chevy adaptor you have the Th400 or the 4L80E (but then you have to play with electronics....maybe not a bad option though if you want a "modern" driveline. Again I believe there are adaptors to hook up the Allison transmission also.

Sometimes having a choice is not a good thing...makes your head hurt thinking about all the choices...lol!

I did a quick websearch and found Destroked dot com makes a whole bunch of adaptors for the 4/6bt motors to transmissions including the allison. So many choices.....so much time.....:p:D:beer:
 

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
Wahoo! I finally got my new to me 5.9L. Or more commonly known as a 6bt. Plus a five speed tranny. Also radiator and intercooler! The old motor mounts and rad hoses included. Evenrything is there except the powersteering pump which is not a big deal since I would want a larger one if I ever put power steering in my rig. Or I could see if I could find an air compressor to put in its place.
Now all I have to do is pull the old paper weight out of the truck and squeeze the newer motor in.
I will also have to see about trying to swap the five speed tranny with transfercase hard mated for a two wheel drive NV5600 six speed.
Does anyone know where this magical spring is located on a 6bt to increase horsepower?
Well at any rate I am going to have my hands full this summer with the build!
 

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
Vroom vroom!!!! Looks sooooo perty! Now comes the long agonizing wait for the snow to disappear. Plenty of time to remove the old to make way for the newer! To bad I don't know anyone with a shop in my neck of the woods.
Just itching to get the project really going!!!
 

Attachments

nattieleather

Well-known member
1,882
142
63
Location
Cleveland, OH
What happen to getting an auto Allison? Stick is ok..you'll have to rig up a clutch peddle...I would go with a hydro clutch system would make it much easier to rig everything up.

Motor looks good.
 

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
I may still go with an automatic if I could find one in a six speed. Though I am not wild about the electronics of an auto. The auto that the guy was willing to give me was a direct drive from a five ton fork lift he had that he wrecked off.
The five speed that came with the motor if from a 4x4, so the transfer case is hard mated to the tranny. It will go up for sale or trade fairly soon to try to get a NV5600 or an auto.
I was more concerned with getting the motor, radiator, intercooler, motor mounts and hoses and such.
Added bonus is the rear main seal and clutch were just replaced before the guy pulled the motor for me! He said he maybe put 1000km on it!
Bonus!
 

Gunfreak25

Well-known member
1,561
620
113
Location
Yuma, AZ
It's a good thing you want to go Hydroboost, nearly impossible hooking up a compressor to that motor due to the serpentine belt. Great pictures!

And for what it's worth, I did all of my work with no shop to speak of. Even worked in the rain and mud a few times. :beer:
 

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
Here are some pics of what I am referring to. The first pic is of the front of the motor with a right quarter view. This is the side the opening is on.
The housing on the front of the motor with the flat face and oil filler is on is the point of reference.
The other pic is the view of the back side of the housing from the firewall point of view. So it would be upper left side of motor.
I know it isn't the starter cuz that is still mounted to the flywheel. The air conditioning compressor is still mounted on the front as is the alternator.
So that I would assume was a mechanical driven power steering pump that was in that place where the opening is.
So I would have to see if I could find a compressor to mount there or another power steering unit for a later date.
 

Attachments

nattieleather

Well-known member
1,882
142
63
Location
Cleveland, OH
So much information you had to post it twice. I would give some thought to putting the power steering pump back on. Here is why. First if you change to a hydro boost brake system you will need the pump to run the booster. Second if you want to add a hysdrulic winch you will need it for that. I guess I'm saying is make a plan going forward on this build and start assembling the parts to get to the finial project. Having a plan will make this project a little bit easier.
 

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
Started with the attempt at removing the old tranny and motor today.
Man are some of those bolts and hoses ever rusted on!
Soaking as many as I could get at today with wd-40 in hopes that they will loosen up.
Side note: any canadian members know or have some used M35a3 rims and tires for sale for cheap?!
My stockers are from 1955 and wouldn't want to trust them when I get my rig up and going.
Would like to go wider and higher but can't really afford new recentered hemtt rims or 395's like I want.
M35a3 rims seem the next best course. The stock 14.5/20r's of an M35a3 aren't much bigger than my 1100/20's stock ( I think!!!!) But will take what I can afford.
 

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
Ok so I managed to disconnect the remainder of what was left for hoses and linkages on the motor and tranny for removal.
All that is left is to removed half dozen bolts and the tranny and motor will come out!! Just have to get the tractor from the inlaws down to my ranch to lift the engine out.
I also pulled off the front grill and headlight assembly.
Here is were some disappointment set in. I was hoping the radiator I got with the new to me 6bt would fit in the grill without needing a lot of re working. Wrong!!!
Seems the old radiator and grill support (once the radiator bracket is removed) is 26.5 inches wide and my new radiator from the 6bt is 28.5 inches wide in the middle and 34 inches at the in/outlets. Same goes for the intercooler.
Gunfreak how did you mod your grill to fit a newer radiator?
Or does anyone know if the is a radiator from another large truck that will fit or is the same as the stock.
I don't want to have to push the motor further back into the cab than I have to. It is already going to be in the cab about 4 to 6 inches to make room with the fan and radiator if it was in stock position.
Is it possible to have the radiator I have narrowed the 3 inches to squeeze it in?
Any ideas or suggestions would be great!!
 

Gunfreak25

Well-known member
1,561
620
113
Location
Yuma, AZ
By modifying the 302 radiators existing bracketry and core support (which is also the fan shroud? the radiator can be made to easily fit much closer to the grill, saving you many inches of room. A new fan shroud is easily made:

DIY Fan Shroud - Do It Yourself Hot Rod Kustom Website

Fortunately you live in a cool climate year round (to me atleast) and the 6bt being DI and only 5.9 liters you should never have any cooling problems even towing. If you want to use a new radiator I have found a 1960-68 Chevelle radiator is a perfect drop in fit. Try to find a 3 core which will be plenty and give you lots of room to play with motor mounting and such. I got lucky and found a 4 core, I am splitting hairs trying to make things fit with my drivetrain length but it's going well even with oil coolers in front of the radiator.

Just google Chevelle Radiator and you will get many good links. They are all standard 26x18 or so and fit great in the grill with no mods at all. I found a rare 4 core from a big block Chevelle on ebay for $130 shipped even though it needs a little work.
 

nattieleather

Well-known member
1,882
142
63
Location
Cleveland, OH
Spend a little extra money when you get to that point and get a custom aluminum radiator made for the motor and the opening. I forget the company right at the moment that does the work, but the reports that I've gotten is they are thinner than original, fit the opening with the correct inlet and outlets for your motor and they work great! I'll see if I can find the information.

Ah here it is! How To Choose a Radiator Size

You may need to click around a little but that will get you to the ball park.

Or the other thought is use the stock raditor from the GMC and plumb it up to work with the 6bt.
 

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
Thanks for the radiator tips Gunfreak and Nattieleather!
I talked to a radiator guy in my town asking if I could narrow my existing radiator I got with my 6bt. He said it could be done but I would be better off going with a complete one off or find a similar sized modern one.
Wish I had the original one for the M135 but since it never existed on mine that's not an option.
To buy a new one for my rig may cost only 200 bucks for the radiator but shipping would be a heck of a lot more.
Sooooo..... It will be a one off or a close universal fit radiator as I can get.
The inter cooler I hope won't be to big of an issue.
 

Section8

Member
503
6
18
Location
Little Fort, B.C., Canada
Ok been a bit since I updated.
Been busy with calving season so not much time to work on the rig.
Got to it yesterday and today after buying an engine hoist.
Now I thought pulling the engine was gonna be a piece of cake since all of the nuts and bolts came apart with ease.
Boy was I wrong!!!
I have fought with trying to separate the motor from the tranny for two whole days with no luck!!
Am I missing something??!!
I checked and rechecked to make sure I didn't miss any hardware.
I shake, rattle and roll the engine ( and myself in a temper tantrum ) to no avail!
All I can think is that the tranny alignment pin on the bellhousing is stuck solid.
Even used a come along off the bumper today!! Still no separation!!
Any thoughts?? Besides a freaking cutting torch!!!
 

Gunfreak25

Well-known member
1,561
620
113
Location
Yuma, AZ
Are you just removing the motor and leaving the tranny in? If so, did you remove the torque converter bolts from the flywheel?

Let me grab the good book from the truck and get back with you in a sec...
 
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