Contemplating a Bobber! To do or not to do that is the question!

[Section8]

Ok so I have a 1955 M135, that I bought couple months ago, and have found that the motoe is pretty much a waste of space under the hood since it is seized.
I have been in the ssssllloooooowww, process of stripping the rims and repainting them gloss black since the old paint was essentially not there.
During this process I have been pondering the age old question of bobbing or returning it to stock form.
I am leaning more towards the bobber now since it will be lighter and more maneuverable with the shorter wheel base and since I am going to have to fab up my own bed for the truck.
I am also debating which powerplant to go with.
From what I am being advised on this sight a 6.2 with a 700r4 is the better option.
My rig will mostly be a pavement queen unfortunately.
I am also looking at a disk brake conversion for my rig. Seems after doing some searching on the net that some Ford F700s from the 80's to early 90's had disk brakes with the same bolt pattern as the M135 and others at 6x8.75! Just need to figure out how to adapt them!
So I guess after my rambling my question is this!
Give me your thoughts and how to's on this since I am relatively new to the MV rebuild world.
I am considering doing the bob/chop job that I have seen some one photo chop on the sight.
Let me know or tell me to go dig a fox hole!

 

[Derrickl112]

Since it is an m135, I say restore it to stock form.

 

[armytruck63]

Agreed. It would be a shame to cut up this somewhat rare truck, although they are more common in Canada.

 

[Section8]

Ok let me rephrase my post.
I am looking to do a bobber on my M135 since there are so many stock parts missing on my rig.
I am wondering if anyone has done a bobber on a M135 yet?
Any advice out there?
I have read most of the bobber posts on the site but a lot of them don't go into to great of detail on them and I haven't found one yet that has been done to a M135.
I am looking at putting disc brakes from an older Ford F700 and stretch the cab to make it an extended cab, not a four door, and push the middle axle back to the pivot point of the old tandem set up.
There are just to many parts missing from my rig to return it to stock form and up here in canada it is easier to fab your own new ideas onto the rig than scrounge across the country for an eternity and fortune to get stock parts.
Feed back is always a bonus!
I know I will get flack for what most would call a classic and that's fine! To each his/ her own but I don't want to hear it if you are gonna preach!
I am just looking for advice on the mechanics and fabs of the project.
Soooo!
Has anyone tryed or though of ways to do said ideas?
Let me know.

 

[Seatyger]

It would be pretty cool if you think it through and get the balance right. I personally think the 'Bobbed' trucks that lop everything past the first rear axle look kind of dorky. With the M135 having smoother rounded lines in the front, putting a bed from an 105 trailer with square wheel well cut outs would also be annoying to look at.

You would have to put an axle between the two rears (approximately). The height of the cab would otherwise make it look like the Hulk version of a Smart Car. If your going to take the time to fab in a rear box you may as well make it look like the ass end of the old Dodge Weapons Carrier with the round fenders.

I was going to do something like that but I havent got the heart to crank up the torch to cut one one of mine. I would rather build a Quad cab 6x6.

Its your machine so do what you want, just take a ton of photos and doodle it out from every angle first.

Gunfreak25's thread on the 6.2 swap seems to be rolling along nicely. The 700r4 will work if you do your homework and beef it up properly.

The rest is if you drive it like a Jackass it will be more prone to breakage no matter if its stock original or a project from Monster garage.

Good luck and keep us posted whatever way you decide to go!

 

[hendersond]

Since you will only have 1 rear axle, you could toss the stock transfer case with the underdrive ratio. Pick up a rusty and reasonably priced 4wd chev pickup with the engine/trans/transfer case you desire and make it fit. The only reason I can see to keep the stock T case is for the second rear driveshaft????

As far ast the bed goes, I'm not a fan of the 105 box, I just don't think it looks right. I would build my own 8-12 foot version that looks like a 211 bed only the correct width for the m135.

The extended cab would be easy with the exception being your roof.

How are your brakes now? working?

You are going to miss your E-brake.

How is that 6.2 going to start from November to March?

 

[Section8]

My plan is to push the second axle back to the pivot point of the tandem set up. I agree that most bobbers look a little to bobbed when they are just chopped behind the second axle. Makes them look as as if they were hit from the ass end and every thing was squeezed on after the cab.
I am wanting to try and make the rig look as balanced as possible so it looks like it was made from the factory.
I do plan on building my own deck on the rig, since it will be my service truck and hold all or most of my tools, and want to try to keep with the rounded wheel well look of the front.
As for brakes! What brakes! I have know Idea how mush shoe I have in the drums and the air system was locked up with the motor until recently. Still have to pull the compressor apart and rebuild it. The tanks are there and most lines. Wiring is all gone from getting prepared for scrap before I saved it. The e-brake band is there and works great!!
I would prefer to keep the old transfer case, if it is still serviceable, since it would mean not having to flip the front axle chuck for proper rotation and then having to modify the axles to fit.
To tackle the roof line problem, I have a lead on an old complete cab 4 hours away at some guys farm that has been sitting since he scrapped his rig years ago. I should be able to mold the two roof lines together from that and make it easier to extend the cab so again it would look more factory made looking.

 

[atankersdad]

Build it. You will have the oldest bobber on the site,,,

 

[Section8]

Thanks for the encouragement!
One of my big questions is this.
I am looking to do a disc brake conversion front and rear. I have researched and found that some older F700 front disc brakes fit the same bolt pattern and would just need some machining to fit over the centre hub flange.
Has any one else done this or thought about it? I don't have the real coin to buy a disc conversion from say Boyce, so I am wondering if this is even possible for the average guy to fab.
**** I am not even truly sure that the wheel studs are on the axle itself or just in the drum.
Haven't gotten around to tear into one yet to find out.
There are to many things that I want to do to this rig and not enough of me and time and money!
Gotta concentrate once my medication kicks in!!!!

 

[Section8]

Engine and tranny parts will be available once I start to remove them soon.
Let me know if you need anything and I will see if I have it.

 

[nattieleather]

If you want to make a single axle truck I would use the G506 of WWII as your insperation. Chevrolet 1 1/2 ton 4x4 Cargo Truck (G7107 & G7117)

I think the 6.2 with 700R4 is a good combo...or a 6.5 turbo would be even better or the 6.2 with a turbo set up...basically the same thing.

As for the disk brake conversion anything is possible with time and money. Setting up the caliper would be the easiets part as all you would have to do is farbicate a bracket for it. The disk is the hard part. You have to secure it to the truck. The standard brakes with the air pack are good brakes. The only advantage to disks is you could change to a hanging peddle from the dash and mount a brake booster and MC from a large GMC or Ford type truck.

Best thing to do is make a list of changes you want to do the truck and then work on them one at a time. Start with the bobing of the truck getting the axle centered properly etc. Then more to the motor and then the brakes etc.

Oh don't forget to remove and move the rear crossmember in the frame to where you want it sit at the end of the truck. This way you have the pintle hitch if you want it.

Good luck with the project and keep us posted with lots of pics! If you lived closer I'd lend a hand because I think it is a interesting idea. If the truck was more complet I'd probably tell you to not do the conversion and restor it, but looking at your advitar the truck looks like it's a good canidate for conversion.

 

[nattieleather]

Oh and another thing. You might give thought to using a set of super single tires like found on the M35a3. Maybe not that rim, but one like it that people are selling out there since they both the M35 serries and the M135 serries trucks have the same bolt pattern.

 

[Gunfreak25]

A 700r4 made after 1988 will work stock just fine without any mods. In a bobber it would work even better, since the weight of most bobs is in the 10,000lb range. And with 6.17 axles, you'd be more than golden. Not only will you want to keep the transfer for the reverse front output, but you would loose the parking brake lever.

You'd be hard pressed to find better brakes on a MV than what the GMC's already have. Talk to any old timer who's driven one. One guy I was talking with who did a 455 Olds GMC Swap recalled stomping on the pedal one time at 65mph. All 6 wheels locked up solid and he went into a sideways skid. His dog slammed into the windshield and he twisted his angle on the brake pedal and slammed his face into the steering wheel. You can still get shoes for $25 NEW and wheel cylinders made by Raybestos for $31 each if you had to.

Hope you do the BOB by the way.

 

[Section8]

The disc brake swap is more down the line for projects on the rig.
First and foremost is gonna be disassemble the cab for repaint and getting prepped for its extension.
I am already in the process of stripping the rims and repainting them gloss black.
I have been looking for hemtt rims for my rig or after market equivalents. Though they all have big disclaimer that they are intended for off road use only!
Still have lots of time before the snow disappears to worry about rims. 395's would look pretty sweet on the rig though.
For braking would it be a good idea to use a boost instead of air assist? I would keep the compressor for running my air tools, but not to wild about the air brakes.
Still want to be able to stop in a hurry if I need to!!!

 

[Gunfreak25]

The hard part with a Hydroboost conversion is finding a Hydro master with a large enough bore and long enough stroke to displace the proper amount of fluid to all the wheel cylinders. Most all of them have the typical 1" to 1 1/4" bores for use in Chebby 1 ton applications. These were simply were never designed to feed 12 large thirsty wheel cylinders. The amount of stroke needed to achieve decent braking power would put your foot through the floor.

The issue with the GMC is not in the air system which does offer a little redundancy in that if air pressure is lost there's still some degree of braking power left, but is LEG power only.

About the only easy solution I could come up after a lot of thinking on this myself, was to double the GMC's braking circuit. Example, add a 2nd master cylinder (they will bolt together side by side and with some work will operate off the same pedal linkage), then add a 2nd AIR PAK. One hydraulic circuit powers half the trucks wheel cylinders and the other hydraulic circuit powers the other half. Or, you could do the traditional front to back split of the system. If your already well acquainted with the GMC's braking system from working on it, you'll quickly see how easy this would be. Cost would be around $400 to $500 which IMO is well worth it for a dual circuit system.

Or you can just do what fred flintstone did and cut a hole in the floor. Yabadaba-doo!

 

[nattieleather]

Well if he is bobbing the truck that will cut out 4 wheel cylinders so he would only have to pump fluid to 8 instead of 12. I think if he got a hydro system out of say large commerical truck like a F450 or GMC 600 with a dual circuit front and rear the booster on that should give enough to work the brakes. Especially if he goes to a disk type setup.

Man too bad your way up there in the great white north....I'd love to help turn a wrench on this project with you.... How are your fabricating skills because that is what it's going to come down to. How well you can make things work on this truck.

Oh yeah might as well get this out of the way.....

 

[slotman]

Here maybe is a different route to consider: Buy an older DODGE 4x4 dually w/the mechanical Cummins motor. Swap in engine,transmission,transfer,front & rear axles. With that you get front discs and large rear drums. Use power steering and power brakes,heater and A/C off of same truck. Install #10 plate and 75hp injectors,should get up to about 300hp. for very little $$$. other things you can use,fabrication required,power windows,locks,and any other accesories. I'm going to be doing this same thing when engine dies in my Bobbed Deuce. Just food for thought.

 

[Gunfreak25]

Section8, you may wish to contact HMBurner here who did a 3-53 Detroit/5speed conversion on an M135. He could find no place to mount the compressor and installed a Hydroboost. He's been quite happy with the conversion as far as I know.

I like your idea, Slotman. If doing a bob job, it would work really well.

 

[Section8]

I have thought about going with a hydro boost from a large heavy truck like a F700 or similar.
I am not to keen on the idea for using a donor trucks axles and the likes. I am only looking for the engine and tranny for the power plant since the 302 is locked up.
I would think that the axles from another rig wouldn't stand up to the power to weight ratio of these trucks.
I have checked out HMburner's rig once before. I have read that the detroits lacked a decent power and torque band.
My fabrication skills are adequate enough to accomplish most challenges.
Can't wait to start posting some pics of the build. For now all that's happening is a striping of the old chipped paint rims and repainting.
Not much getting accomplished at the moment with a good foot of snow on the ground!

 

[Gunfreak25]

You've got the enthusiasm to get it done and it sounds like you know what your after. Go with whatever makes the pickle tickle. We are looking forward to seeing it.