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Coolant temp light now no crank

Light in the Dark

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Any thoughts? Or do I just have to follow 2-40. COOLANT TEMP. INDICATOR. procedures outlined in the -24 manual? I don't want to overlook something dumb. Was running an 802 earlier and the set shut down. I just added a bunch more coolant since I am assuming it was low. Should have looked at the coolant first, but that'll teach me.
 

Light in the Dark

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Oh, and with the battle short flipped, the light still comes on, but the whole set goes quiet once I flip to start.
 

Light in the Dark

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And yes I was impatient in getting it going this morning, so I do know in the back of my mind that my impatience may very well have just seized up this unit. But I am hoping not. Too dark to do anything now, and going to rain with big winds the next two days.
 

Guyfang

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If the set isn't completely out of coolant, and after resetting the fault indicator, and the light still comes on, See below.


Coolant High Temperature Switch Cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 2-123

Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-124

Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-123

Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-124
 

Light in the Dark

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I could really kick myself for even having to ask the forum about this... low hour reset, foolishly assumed they had filled the radiator properly. Another tier 2 that bites me in the ass...
 

Daybreak

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Howdy,

Ouch
A MEP-802A doesn't take a lot of coolant either.

You know the drill about filling. The folks that do not have forks, are probably better jacking one side up to a good angle to get the coolant in and air out.

bets of luck, keep us up to date. :cool:
 

Light in the Dark

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Well the only saving grace I think I have, is that after trying to gurgle in more fluid, I was able to (seemingly) have the unit spin with the dead crank switch. I assume if it was seized, I would have heard nothing but the calamity of the starter gear strip out. Gives me hope at this early hour, upon reflection.
 

Light in the Dark

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Howdy,

Ouch
A MEP-802A doesn't take a lot of coolant either.

You know the drill about filling. The folks that do not have forks, are probably better jacking one side up to a good angle to get the coolant in and air out.

bets of luck, keep us up to date. :cool:
Yes... yes I do. And I feel like a heel for not simply seeing if I could add any fluid before starting. Funny what feeling like a heel can do to your resolve to not feel like one again. I can't tell from the writeup, but does the wire side matter on this switch? I don't see a particular pin-out for connection sides, so I assume its a simple circuit just like the oil pressure switch is. Thanks
 

Light in the Dark

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If the set isn't completely out of coolant, and after resetting the fault indicator, and the light still comes on, See below.
I didn't ask, but which manual are you pulling this from? I assume the -24, but the copy I have has coolant high temp switch instructions on 2-129 through 2-130
 

jamawieb

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Well the only saving grace I think I have, is that after trying to gurgle in more fluid, I was able to (seemingly) have the unit spin with the dead crank switch. I assume if it was seized, I would have heard nothing but the calamity of the starter gear strip out. Gives me hope at this early hour, upon reflection.
Usually won't seize the motor, you'll blow the head gasket first. The sensor that controls the high coolant temperature fault is located on the water pump and has 2 wires hooked to it. When it overheats it completes the circuit, so you can take one wire off and see if it makes the fault go away. I started a thread a few months back and I posted the website of the sensor so people could buy them. The company makes them to order so it will take about 3 weeks to receive.
 

mciikurzroot

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Now that the unit has cooled off and "normal" have you had an oppertunity to try and turn the engine over, ? using the 'dead crank' feature, or worse by hand [grasping the fan blade] or somehow accessing the flywheel and 'barring it over' my caution would be to be darn sure the battery power was not availible under any of these efforts beyond the dead crank effort. I get your sense or thought that it only took one jug of coolant, but worse it only holds 2 jugs, so it might well have seized up, but you will be first to know or discover this. And above all, I so get the impatience you talk about not having, when I reflect back on things or situations I have caused damage too, my lack of impatience is nearly always at the root of it. good luk mac/mc
 

Guyfang

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I didn't ask, but which manual are you pulling this from? I assume the -24, but the copy I have has coolant high temp switch instructions on 2-129 through 2-130
TM 9-6115-642-24, Dated 1 sep. 1993 with change 4.

What book you using?

I just looked and found that the 802A book, TM 9-6115-641-24 is probably what you are using. Doesn't matter, it's still the right info.
 
Last edited:

DieselAddict

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Yes... yes I do. And I feel like a heel for not simply seeing if I could add any fluid before starting. Funny what feeling like a heel can do to your resolve to not feel like one again. I can't tell from the writeup, but does the wire side matter on this switch? I don't see a particular pin-out for connection sides, so I assume its a simple circuit just like the oil pressure switch is. Thanks
Yep. Its a basic switch. No polarity. It should reset once its cooled down. If not check the switch with ohm meter. It should be open when cool.
 
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