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Get that new gauge that new gauge that goes to 250. Buy the right sending unit for it. That’s what I’m going to do… I’m so tired of watching the temp gauge! Lol
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Cooling issues
- Thread starter SmartDrug
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SmartDrug
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SmartDrug
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Finally got it sorted- bought the updated gauge and sender from Kascar, now it seems that everything is working as it should be. Apparently the old gauge was reading about 30 degrees high. Odd failure, but I’m just glad it’s sorted.
For anyone looking at making this change- you will need to drain your coolant beforehand. A lot of retailers have the pair for between $130-180, but Kascar has them both for about $60.
12480699 -$23
12480698 -$30
Are the part numbers
For anyone looking at making this change- you will need to drain your coolant beforehand. A lot of retailers have the pair for between $130-180, but Kascar has them both for about $60.
12480699 -$23
12480698 -$30
Are the part numbers
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I just ordered a set. You really have to drain coolant? I just flushed mine and I didn’t think about the sending unit…
SmartDrug
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If you have the 200a alternator, I really can’t see how you would be able to do itquickly enough to not lose a good amount of coolant, but maybe if you’re quick, it’s possible. If you just changed it, you could always just dump it back in, I suppose. I needed a flush anyway, but draining it from the temperature sensor (i.e. trying to hot swap it and failing- giving up after taking an ethylene glycol bath), only dumped about 2-3 gallons, so maybe not a full drain.
I’m very glad I ponied up for this setup. If nothing else, the overheat LED gives me an extra bit of peace of mind.
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I have drained mine several times lately, no loss, I just use a 5gal bucket and after a couple gallons or so you can work the upper system.
EDIT, drain it out of the lower hose/pipe drain valve.
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Also remove the rad. cap so it flows well into the bucket.
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I think I will try to be quick and change it out. Put some Teflon tape on the new one and have it ready and stick my finger in the dyke and give it a try. Worse case it will drain on me. Maybe I will get a new 5 gallon bucket and just drain it and pour it back in like you suggested.
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It that is the plan, leave the radiator cap ON to help slow down the flow.
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Every time lately I try and do a job "quickly" something goes wrong, slow and patient seems to serve me well these days, but I am not 30,40 or even 50 anymore...
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Every time I try to be careful with something is when I make the biggest mess.. I may be slow but at least I do sh1tty work! Hahahaha
SmartDrug
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DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE HERE! The sensor grounds to the block, tape will likely affect that and could lead to other issues. The thread is tapered somewhat and seals fine at proper torque, the tape is unnecessary.
Regarding the swap, if you’re putting it up in the air, it will help things. I did it on the ground, it became a matter of not having room to get in the small area at the right angle, YMMV. Have a clean bucket nearby if it doesn’t work out! I hadn’t started that project by thinking I’d need to google “how much ethylene glycol can I swallow before needing a doctor?”.
Daren Uzzell
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Great thread guys, have read with interest. I too have a temp gauge which over reads after about 5 minutes of the engine running so I know the gauge is at fault as the engine could not be at max temp in that short time. When driving the fan does kick in at what I would expect from an engine, and boy does it shift some air, scared the crap out of me the first time, thought something had exploded! So again this points to the gauge. Have had the panel off and the wiring behind is really tight (short) so I'm thinking a wire has come adrift or loose somewhere so after reading your comments I think this issue is down to the ground or the bracket holding the gauge. Will have a play.
Thanks and keep safe.
Thanks and keep safe.