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Cooling upgrade system.

ryanruck

ryanruck

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Circle track cars have done this for decades... specificly SBCs with 18 degree heads. Smokey Yunick was a pioneer in this.

It helps to equalize temps between cylinders as a SBC always runs hotter on the back half. it is not a crutch or band aid it it way to increase coolant flow thru the heads to eliminante "hot spots.

Books have been devoted to this concept. Grumpy Jenkins ( RIP ) did this as well and wrote about the modification in his book.

That man forgot more about SBC than I will ever know.

Some water pumps actually come with the additional ports to add the plumbing to the heads.

I did it on my engine and no regrets.
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Good thing we've got folks here that know more than Bill Jenkins though... :roll:
He was formally trained as a mechanical engineer at Cornell University, and he used his training and skills to build engines.[3] He has been inducted in numerous motorsports halls of fame for his engine building skills in the National Hot Rod Association (NHRA) Pro Stock division. His innovations include drag racing's first kickout oil pans, Pro Stock strut-style front suspension, and dry sump oiling system, and cool cans, electric water pump fan, gas port pistons, and slick-shift manual transmissions.[3] Considered the "Father of Pro Stock", Jenkins-built engines were used to win five NHRA Pro Stock championships and three American Hot Rod Association (AHRA) championships.[4]
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ETA: Wanted to add an excerpt from Mr. Jenkins's book, "The Chevrolet Racing Engine":
INTRODUCTION

In the beginning we should make it clear what we intend to give to the readers of this book. The information herein is the result of more than twenty years racing experience with the smallblock Chevrolet V8 engine and it is intended as a basic study of racing engine design and assembly. The illustrations show typical techniques and hardware developed at Jenkins Competition for our own drag racing and Nascar stock car engines. Currently, we are talking about power levels of about 670 horsepower from our 330 cubic inch displacement Pro Stock drag motors and 580 horsepower from our Grand National four-barrel 354-inchers. In the original context we will be speaking entirely of very high horsepower "off-road" engines intended strictly for competition but the perceptive reader will find sound engineering principles which may be applied to any high performance internal combustion engine, regardless of make.

...

COOLANT CIRCULATION

Our dynamometer setup isn't as elaborate as some but we have found some definite cooling problems inside the case. Our tests show a temperature variation from one cylinder to the next. It might be as bad as 150° F from a good one to a bad one. We have tried as best we can to isolate this temperature problem from those of intake mixture distribution variations and exhaust pipe contour variations which will also cause cylinder-to-cylinder heat problems. It appears to be a built-in characteristic of the block construction and water circulation pattern. There are some variations in the pattern but normally the cylinders toward the front of the block operate cooler and those toward the rear hotter. As the water moves toward the rear of the block it becomes warmer. Consequently it does a less efficient job of cooling the rear cylinders. The tendency is especially pronounced on the left cylinder bank. When the water moves rearward some is routed upward into the cylinder heads through the matching water supply holes in the block and head decks. This causes some disruption of the heat distribution in the inboard four cylinders.

Obviously, pumping all of the coolant into the front of the cylinder block through the water pump inlets contributes to this uneven heat dispersion. We have tried several different methods to eliminate this disparity. To date we haven't found anything that has proven totally satisfactory. The general approach is to restrict some of the water feed into the front of the block and/or to reroute some water externally to the rear of the case where it is fed into the side through the core holes or through drilled holes in the side of the block. The relative temperature of the combustion chambers has also been equalized somewhat by controlling flow from the block, into the heads, by restricting or blocking off some passages and drilling some new passages.
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StackJ

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Amazing thread, loads of naysayers, lol.


Will hold additional commentary in reserve for now.
 
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911joeblow

911joeblow

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This mistake was entirely human error on my part. Somehow this order got marked as shipped and as such was given no additional scrutiny until I heard that it was not received and reconciled all the orders to see what happened. Being out of town when I found out just added more frustration since I had to get home in order to ship the kit. It left Monday with priority shipping. Sorry again for the mix up.

StackJ said:
Amazing thread, loads of naysayers, lol.

I might be one myself but I wouldn't know. Unfortunately as an person who ordered early, paid early and then got repeated delays, I haven't received my kit. Told the guy dkhajavi@gmail.com that if I don't get a ship notification today then I'm asking for a refund.

Will hold additional commentary in reserve for now.
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Bravojmc

Bravojmc

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Palisade, Colorado
StackJ said:
Amazing thread, loads of naysayers, lol.

I might be one myself but I wouldn't know. Unfortunately as an person who ordered early, paid early and then got repeated delays, I haven't received my kit. Told the guy dkhajavi@gmail.com that if I don't get a ship notification today then I'm asking for a refund.

Will hold additional commentary in reserve for now.
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Everyone makes mistakes and I for one can tell you that I've recieved two item from him and he is a standup person. I will do buisness with him again.
 
911joeblow

911joeblow

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Kits have been shipping out at a pretty good pace and for now we are in stock if anybody needs one. Lots of good feedback coming in. We had one fitting leak which we immediately replaced and are waiting to get back to see what happened there but beyond that everything has been received with great feedback.

We are also now selling CUCV versions as well. Civilian kits are a few weeks away for the H1 and for the GM based 6.2 , 6.5 and 6.5T trucks.
 
FKAM

FKAM

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Duchesne, Utah
Finally got around to finishing the install of the kit today. The kit didn't want to be installed exactly like the instructions say, The accelerator cable just wouldn't quite allow it, so I took it upon myself to let the kit decide where it wanted to be routed. Worked out OK from my perspective. I also decided to use some high heat loom, heat shrink and flat black paint to modify the looks of the kit to better match the rest of the compartment. Just had to give it a more personal touch. But the original blue did match the blue steering hydrolic hoses the army put in. They will get a treatment in the future.

Still need to run it more to see if it is helping.

DSC00710post.jpg
 
911joeblow

911joeblow

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So guys just a little update. Our CUCV brothers have now been installing kits for their applications and things are going well on that side. Lots of good feedback coming in. We are making some small changes to our supply chain so there will be a bit of lag in kit availability after current stock is depleted. So for any SS members that want a kit soon let me know before they are gone again.

I have had some requests come in for kits that incorporate additional ports for aftermarket sensors. We are looking into that but not sure that the added cost makes sense. Let me know if you think that is a big plus for the kits or not really an issue to gauge interest if you would. We have also had a few requests for 'stealth' kits, ie. all black versions. We can do this with our current supply chain but it complicates things a bit with inventory. Again if this is a big want then we can investigate further. I can see this being a thing for those with restoration trucks that still want the benefits of our kit without the in your face obviousness of the anodized blue.

Any other input and suggestions would be appreciated. Again thanks for all the support!
 
suzukovich

suzukovich

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Interesting read. Just one request. Can you post pics of rear of block before mod. So I can understand what your doing?

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
 
SublimeMudTime

SublimeMudTime

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So here is an idea just to quiet the naysayers and be able to say i told you so. On the connection points add sensor ports, also add in a control valve to stop flow at the back of the block connection. And then some experiments could be done in that the truck is run up to temp closed off... well you get the idea.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
 
S

Sintorion

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SublimeMudTime said:
So here is an idea just to quiet the naysayers and be able to say i told you so. On the connection points add sensor ports, also add in a control valve to stop flow at the back of the block connection. And then some experiments could be done in that the truck is run up to temp closed off... well you get the idea.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
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An idea that has been asked over and over, but ole Joe either has not tested a product that he builds and sells or has tested and received unfavorable results. Either way, I couldn't live with myself selling something like that.

Not a naysayer, but just someone that doesn't throw money at unproven gadgets.

I wonder if Joe will go on record to offer full refunds to those that bought his product if when it is fully tested that it shows to not perform the way he claims?
 
B

Bighorn

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SublimeMudTime said:
So here is an idea just to quiet the naysayers and be able to say i told you so. On the connection points add sensor ports, also add in a control valve to stop flow at the back of the block connection. And then some experiments could be done in that the truck is run up to temp closed off... well you get the idea.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
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Actually the kit can be deleted while it is still installed on the vehicle.
I have this kit on my M1009.
One of the kit hoses can be sent over to the other head instead of forward.
The crossover connection can be looped to itself using the second hose.

I plan to do just that to see what effect, if any the kit has on engine temperature, performance.
Of course, Joe isn't claiming the temperature will drop.
He claims the temperature across the cylinders will be better equalized.
That is hard to measure.

I have not driven my truck with the kit installed yet.
I have only run it till it reached operating temperature.
The 190 degree thermostat opened at 182 degrees according to my crossover mounted temp gauge.
Up until that time the return line on the upgrade kit was passing at least some water as it warmed along with the engine.
When the thermostat opened the return line became hot at the same rate as the radiator hose.
Leads me to believe it was retuning some water from the rear of the heads.
What real effect it has remains to be seen.
 
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