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Correct Deuce Air Filter - Donaldson P11-7551 doesn't exist?

houdel

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The "Multifuel Filter and Gasket Interchange" posting in the Technical Articles Forum lists the Donaldson P11-7551 Air Filter as the only commercial air filter which meets the 410 CFM requirement for the LD465 multifuel engine. Unfortunately, I cannot find a source for this filter. I even searched the Donaldson web site and could not find that number listed.

Fortunately, the air filter that came with my Deuce is practically brand new, marked "410 CFM", has only a little dust at the entrance from the mushroom and the rest of the filter is clean so I won't be needing a replacement very soon.

Does anyone know of a suitable commercial filter that meets the 410 CFM requirement? Or do I have to find original military filters at Saturn or other military parts suppliers? I've seen K&N filters mentioned as suitable in other postings, but also seen comments that the higher K&N flow rate is achieved by using a more porous filter element which allows more & larger chunks of airborne contaminants into the engine.

Please don't flame me on the K&N comment, I'm just repeating what others have posted. I know a lot of people swear by K&N, I just want the straight facts.

BTW, I've found on on-line site with VERY nice prices for Baldwin fuel and oil filters, they even have the correct fuel filter gaskets. I'll post more on this after I've gotten my order from them!

Thanks, Lee
 

wallew

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houdel,
Yeah, I stirred up a sh!t storm with my K&N filter thread. I have now been using it for three months. Probably LESS than a thousand miles so far. But she's starts up way easier, especially when it's cold.

As far as filtration goes, I personally ran a Harley with ONLY a large mesh screen covering the intake. Ran it hard and nasty for better than seven years and twenty THOUSAND miles with ZERO ill effects.

With the screen filtration system on the mushroom intake, this will stop almost EVERY piece large enough to do damage to your engine. Dust or small particles of dirt WILL be stopped by any filter, regardless of it's make up.

In all honesty, I have yet to hear from ANYONE running a K&N filter to ever have an engine failure due to 'large particles' getting through the K&N filter. You have a better chance of 'sucking in' a piece of the filter than getting particles through it. And yes, the K&N does flow about two to three times air. But it IS oiled which absorbs about 90%+ of ALL smaller particles.

If ANYONE has an HONEST report about K&N filter causing ANY DAMAGE to ANY VEHICLE, then I would love to hear from the owner of that vehicle. I've asked this question for more than fifteen years. So far, no takers.
 

Westech

CPL
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cow farts, Wisconsin
Here is the poop on K&N. Its fine to run in everything BUT!!! motors with M.A.F. sensors. If you dont know what that is you should not be installing a K&N filter. What goes on is the oil from the filter covers the sensor's heated wires and gives bad readings to the ECM, and makes fo all sorts of running problems. Other then that, go baby go. :driver:
 

rice

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The other filters listed are NAPA FIL2837,Baldwin PA1620, Fleetguard AF826. I'm not sure about air flow though.
 

G744

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The filters in the big tacticals will last a very, very long time. Typical is about 50,000 miles without changing depending on the dust conditions in your area.

Not many of us will ever get close to that figure, and the truck does have a very good indicator for restriction on the dashboard.

Never use compressed air to clean them out, it will tear the element.

The procedure is to wash them in a bucket of soap & water, then leave it in the sun to dry.

When it is dry, stick a trouble light inside and rotate while looking for holes in the pleats. No holes, put it back in.

I have changed the one in my Diesel M37 three times in 250K miles, the one in my 5-ton cargo is the one it came with 30,000 some miles ago.

dg
 

SixBuy

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Has anybody ever tested the filter indicator? Is there a way to test it? How do you know if it's working? And if that's not enough - how much restriction is it supposed to indicate? Obviously, inquiring minds want to know...
 

M35A2

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Location
Oxfordshire, England
houdel said:
The "Multifuel Filter and Gasket Interchange" posting in the Technical Articles Forum lists the Donaldson P11-7551 Air Filter as the only commercial air filter which meets the 410 CFM requirement for the LD465 multifuel engine. Unfortunately, I cannot find a source for this filter. I even searched the Donaldson web site and could not find that number listed.

Fortunately, the air filter that came with my Deuce is practically brand new, marked "410 CFM", has only a little dust at the entrance from the mushroom and the rest of the filter is clean so I won't be needing a replacement very soon.

Does anyone know of a suitable commercial filter that meets the 410 CFM requirement? Or do I have to find original military filters at Saturn or other military parts suppliers? I've seen K&N filters mentioned as suitable in other postings, but also seen comments that the higher K&N flow rate is achieved by using a more porous filter element which allows more & larger chunks of airborne contaminants into the engine.

Please don't flame me on the K&N comment, I'm just repeating what others have posted. I know a lot of people swear by K&N, I just want the straight facts.

BTW, I've found on on-line site with VERY nice prices for Baldwin fuel and oil filters, they even have the correct fuel filter gaskets. I'll post more on this after I've gotten my order from them!

Thanks, Lee


As far as I am aware, the multifuel engine is basically based on a MAN engine (continental), this is what I have been told. Here are a few links to dealers in the UK and Holland. Reomie have thousands of stock parts. You can email them and find out what the filters are. I know they ship worldwide.

http://www.reomie.com/

http://www.milweb.net/


Hope this helps?
 

cranetruck

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In a different thread (The multifuel "intercooler") I listed a few numbers regarding the "vacuum" that I measured in the filter canister with an almost new "standard" filter cartridge (thanks again Kenny!).

Jim is supposed to come up with numbers for the K&N filter for comparison. Hint, Hint, :). Did you buy a gauge yet?

BTW, at low rpm's the engine gets plenty more air than it needs, the vacuum measurements were taken during ~10 psi of boost and were generally about 4 inches of water.

When you use the truck a lot, starting never takes more than a few seconds. How bad was your original filter, Jim? Try it again to see if starting makes a difference.

Meanwhile, I'll look for calibration info on the "clogged filter" indicator...
 

CGarbee

Well-known member
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Location
Raleigh, NC
I'm very tempted to just take the OEM filter out of my M35A2C and hand it over the counter at my local Komatsu dealer (about a block from my office, very good guys at the parts counter, get all my Cummins parts from them...), and ask them to get me a replacement... They are a Donaldson dealer and I suspect that there is one in the parts inventory that is the same CFM and diminsions (or close enough) to satisfy everyone's "stock" concerns...
Personally, when my trucks need new filters, I'll most likely just order up a set of OEM ones from Saturn or White Owl or such...
 

cranetruck

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Okay, so I checked the restriction indicator on my deuce, it states right on the label, "Range: 27 inches of water".

Found this at filterminder.com:

" Dyno testing at various air filter restrictions has shown that horsepower remains constant as filter restriction increases within engine manufacturers specifications."
 
1,540
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Location
Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Here is the poop on K&N. Its fine to run in everything BUT!!! motors with M.A.F. sensors. If you dont know what that is you should not be installing a K&N filter. What goes on is the oil from the filter covers the sensor's heated wires and gives bad readings to the ECM, and makes fo all sorts of running problems. Other then that, go baby go. :driver:
That is absolutely FALSE. I run a C&L CAI with K&N oiled filter on my 2006 Mustang GT. You will only have problems with the MAF if you OVER OIL the filter after cleaning and washing it. I Clean and re oil mine every 10,000 miles. To make sure I dont over oil I stuff paper towel in the conical air filter and using compressed air I blow out any excess oil onto the paper towels. I also sit it in the hot son to dry. I do clean my MAF everytime also, but thats more because of residual oil blow by which is notorious on the 3Valve 4.6 liters. I have the parts here for a catch can/breather setup so I can plug the air intake ports, just gotta get arround to installing it.
 

jollyroger

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Location
Centennial, Colorado
After seeing this post I am curious about the change in air filter I just made. The indicator was not in the red but I wanted to start off with fresh filters all the way around. The O.E. filter was not bad so I saved it in the Car Quest box. It should be the same Wix filter from Napa or Car Quest. Please let us know the results of the testing. BTW I posted pictures of the O.E. filter, the new Car Quest (Wix) filter and Wix and Car Quest part numbers on a new thread.
 
Last edited:

saddamsnightmare

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Abilene, Texas
August 13th, 2009.

Boy, it seems to be the week for Duece Air Filter problems and questions......:twisted:
You do know that most of the original filters (Air) used on the deuce were designed to be washed out and reused? The TM-10, 20's will tell you how as will the Preventative Maintenance Magazine, which should be here under resources. Almost NONE of the Civillian
filters I have seen meet the 410CFM per minute requirement for the Multifuel to breathe correctly, and there are sources for the correct units, White Owl Parts, JATONKA, Memphis Equipment Co, Desert Deuce, probably Saturn and Eastern Equipment to start with.
If you want to run your deuce with an incorrect filter or no filter at all, that's your choice, fortunately the deuce was never as crude a vehicle as the Harley Davidson mentioned above, but working in a high dirt off road environment (as the deuce is designed to do) places certain dangers to the life of the engine if proper filtration media is not used. Another parts deuce might just be the result.:roll:
My washed out and dried filter does just as well as a new one, but then my truck averages 4500 to 6500 miles of on and off road work per year, more then most deuces in or out of the Army ever see in a normal couple of years, and so I am particular as regards her feeding and maintenance. Also as she is a two war veteran, she doesn't need to be killed by carelessness.
Just my .02 worth....
Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan:-D
 

jollyroger

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Location
Centennial, Colorado
I am happy to have you all share the info. I am going to take the Car Quest filter I bought back and wash the old one. Apparently there is a way to tell if it is washable or not. I was wondering how adequate the Car Quest filter was when it was much smaller than the O.E. AND the O.E. had 410 CFM stampped on it. That indicated to me that 410 CFM was of importance. That's why I started a new thread that has pictures of them side by side. If anyone knows an easy way to tell if it is washable or not please let me know. Thanks. :p
 

m-35tom

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so if the incorrect filter does not flow enough air, why is it that i still get 14 psi boost? could it be that the military was just anal about filters?? or that some desk jockey did the math and said this is what it should be?
 

btcoutermash

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Meriden, CT
The other filters listed are NAPA FIL2837,Baldwin PA1620, Fleetguard AF826. I'm not sure about air flow though.
I know this is an old post, but just an FYI. I spoke with Baldwin Filters to day, and the y said that PA1620 is rated for only 306.74CFM. No where close the 410CFM that is spec'd.
 
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