Couple problems with mt 1952 M38A1

[Deadguyllc]

The steering is shot. Riding down the street, after I hit a bump, the steering goes all wonky for a minutes, jerking back and forth, then settles down. I got home, gave the tie-rods a little tug, and they are loose. I have to turn the wheel over 2 inches before the tire moves as well, and the wheel shimmies as I go down the street. This is probably the original steering linkage form 1952. The steering wheel is cracked, and the horn doesn't work. I took it off, pulled, and this long thing that looks like a dipstick, complete with oil on the end, came out. I know there is a horn, I see it inside the cab, but it doesn't work, and in my CJ7, it was where that dipstick is now!
So-suggestions? What do you suggest I replace?
Also, separate issue, after a a good 20 minutes, if I have the car at idle, or sitting in traffic, it just dies. Really hard to restart, and it runs a bit rough. The engine is brand new, any ideas?

 

[clinto]

We had a '55 M38A1, I strongly believe it had 106K miles. I pulled the speedo and it was date coded about 2 or 3 months before the build date of the Jeep.

ALL of the front linkage was shot. It needed the steering box rebuilt, tie rods, pitman arm, etc. I would simply do it all. This guy on ebay has all the stuff at good prices:

eBay My World - wcfr4

I would go ahead and pull down the front hubs so you can just do it all once. There just isn't any point in doing everything over and over in the pursuit of only fixing one item at a time.

I never messed with the horn on ours but I think it's like a Deuce where the horn wire goes down through the column and goes through the steering box, exiting in the front and then going to the horn. If so, that's why it came out with oil on it. You can put it back in when you rebuild the steering box.

dying issue: Difficult to diagnose over the internet. Basic diagnostic "best practices" policy for vehicles is:

Always ensure ignition system is 100% before chasing fuel delivery system issues. Verify the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser and coil are in good shape. Then check fuel pressure output by the fuel pump, then check/rebuild carb as necessary.

I do not think vapor lock is likely on one of these engines.

 

[modified]

the behavior of your steering components as mentioned is what we call "death wobble".. This can be caused by a single or combined several conditions with your steering, suspension circuit,
i.e; unevenly worn tires
mis-balanced tire
worn knuckle bearings or improper pre-load
worn tierod ends
worn sector shaft and worm.
worn or loose axle u-bolts
worn knuckle seals
in some cases, worn spindle/wheel bearings

Have you all the "TM" (manuals) for your G758? You NEED THEM!!!

I strongly encourage you to join willysmjeeps.com
you can download all the necessary manuals for free at :
Willys M Jeeps - Access Denied

There is no reason for you to start ripping things apart and wasting your money on parts that do not resolve your issues.
try to approach your concerns with detail and be methodical when you troubleshoot. Helps us help you

 

[mutt1966]

get in touch with John Bizel at Mid-West Military he will kow what ya need to get the front end back to snuff, as far as the engine quitting sounds like a bad coil acting up youll need a new one, is it still 24 Volt? Good luck there great vehicles, Oh most of the parts are the same as the early CJ-5 except for the 24 volt electric's Cheers Scott O&O

 

[FrankUSMC]

The "dip stick" part is part of the horn kit, as Clinto said, on some trucks it is made of wire, but on the M38A1 it is a long rod.
If you have pulled it out, when you go to put it back in, it has to go though a small hole at the bottom of the steering shaft. My best friend, the late MGySgt Hofper, would take a Marine who had nothing to do, and sat him in the drivers seat. The Marine was told to just keep poking the rod over and over again till he hit the little hole in the bottom of the shaft. At that point, he was to leave it in place and get some one to finnish the horn kit.
One of the few, Frank USMC RET

 

[Deadguyllc]

Alright, it looks like the steering craziness is a combo of worn out shocks, and loose linkage. I have to replace the shocks, pitman arm, tie rod ends, and steering gear box. The jeep dying is most likely vapor lock, as the fuel line runs between the exhaust manifold and the engine block, and is not insulated! The jeep only dies when it gets hot, which is after about 20 minutes down here in Texas!
The T90 tranny is shot, so I'm upgrading to a T18. The jeep already feels underpowered when it climbs a hill, and the engine is brand new, so I'm thinking an overdrive might be a waste of money. Opinions? I am thinking about swapping out the Danna 25 front axle for a Dana 30 so I can have disc brakes. I've heard the 30 isn't a very strong axle though, again, let me get some opinions!

 

[modified]

oooh, now this thread just got interesting and expensive!!

have you figured out what you want to spend?
have you asked yourself what you want to do with the jeep, i.e; mild offroad, rock crawler, garage warmer, chick magnet?

be prepared kid.
if you really want to go the re-powered route, yield to this site for mod discussions
Earlycj5.com

also visit : Novak Jeep Conversions - Home to see your re-power options


the most desirable drop in to your M38A1 is an 225 odd-fire Buick V6 which was available in the mid 60's CJ5's through 1971. IMHO, sm465 tranny would be better suited to the V6 if you go this route. The granny low has a thumper 1st gear.

mind you, if you were to drop a small block V8 or ?
-you'll have to consider a whole upgrade drive-train, including flanged axles in the rear Dana 44.
-11" drum brake conversions or disc mod
-Saginaw steering conversion (power option)
-hacking a perfectly good body
-manipulating frame for motor mounts
-converting to 24 vdc mil electronics to 12 Vdc civvy to run distrib and ...?
-a roll cage when you've realized what harm this short wheel-based willys can do going 75 MPH while trying to avoid a sinkhole at the last minute in Marfa!!!
-**** the seat belts, get some knee pads and a crash helmet with 5 point sound mics and have fun!!!

Now my ; I would humbly request you reconsider hacking this fine example of an M38A1, not to many specimens looking this good to be found. particularly one as complete as yours.

At the very least, find your bliss and drive it. then give me all your take-off parts!!!

 

[Deadguyllc]

Mild offroad. Mainly hunting/camping, a few trails. I like the T18, I had it in a CJ. It's bulletproof. I also like keeping the M38A1 mostly stock, and the T18 actually was around in the same era, just on heavier trucks. Any opinions on the axle swap? And, also, I can swap in a completely rebuilt Dana 18 transfer case, it's not to pricey, but the original might still be perfectly fine, and that would be a waste. It's 59 years old, but it probably wasn't used that much.

 

[Deadguyllc]

Look what I just found
Jeep DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT for Open+Closed Knuckles | eBay

 

[Deadguyllc]

So, I went to install the seat belts today, and noticed a tire was flat. I went to pull it off, and all the bolts are seized up. Rusted in place, painted over, and even with a big torque wrench, I couldn't move them. I looked closer, and noticed both of the driver's side tires are dry rotted. It looks like I'll have to replace them, after I saw off the old lug nuts! Great, my funds on this truck are quickly drying up! At least, when it's all in working order, they are fairly bulletproof!

 

[mutt1966]

aahhh what side were you trying to take off they mite not be seized up they're left hand threaded on the drivers side

 

[Deadguyllc]

Dohhh! Yeah, that was it

 

[Deadguyllc]

My seat is rather high, like as in if I sit upright, I have to stoop to seep through the windshield. Is this normal for the M38A1s?
Also, I've noticed that it behaves really badly on lower octane gas. I know when these were made, they only had leaded gas, not unleaded. Any opinions?

 

[Deadguyllc]

My windshield is also not split down the middle. That might make it an M38 windshield on my M38a1, does that affect the height?