• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

CTIS - Almost working

Kemper

Kemper

Member
36
16
8
Location
Centerville, NJ
UPDATE #1
Problem solved. Computer was bad. Replaced with a new one.

Steps listed throug the post are still helpful first steps.

UPDATE #2
CTIS controllers for $295 Wish I had found this earlier.
https://advancedautomotion.com/shop...ucts_id/590/osCsid/ss4ii6hqh210mishl2hosudlj3

UPDATE #3
Part: AUTEX Pressure Transducer/Sender/Sensor 150/200 Psi Stainless Steel Compatible With Oil, Fuel, Air, Water (150 Psi)
Supplier: Amazon

With new transducer pressers are as follows:

HYW 80 psi
XC 38 psi
SAND 32 psi
EMR 22 psi
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CTIS system almost works.

Symptoms:
- Controller flashes in Highway mode sends air to manifold. Manifold send air then releases. Controller flashed 5 red light.

Known:
- System passed all mechanical tests listed in the TM's
- System passed all electrical troubleshooting test listed in the TM's short of replacing the controller for a known functional unit.
- Manifold taken apart and clean. Though it was nearly spotless. The gasket between the plastic cover and aluminum block was blown out. I cut a new one out of rubber and sealed it with Loctite high flex gasket maker. No longer leaks.
- The air system holds air for days.
- Pressure switch on wet tank activates at ~120 psi. I have the connector jumped to take it out of the equation because of the high activation pressure. Also I ordered an adjustable pressure switch from McMaster 3427K4 in order to set the pressure lower.
- Currently I swapped the 1/4 turn dump valve on the wet tank with shop air fitting.
- Piped shop air to each rear wheel after the rear dump valve. Wheels filled as expected.
- System has OEM dryer but I have never seen water come out of any of the tanks when draining after each drive. I plan to replace it with a modern unit soon.
- Disassembled rear quick release valve. looked ok inside.
- Lowered all tires to 20psi to force the system to fill.

Ideas:
- The controller sends air to the wheels to check the pressure but it doesn't get the return signal it is looking for?
- The pressure switch on the manifold is bad not set correctly?
- There is something major I am missing/ don't know?
- Front quick release valve is damaged?
- Controller is bad?

I have read every thread I can find on here about the CTIS system and tried the suggestions.

Other than that the truck is awesome. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Video of the sounds/ process.
 
Last edited:
R

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,859
7,498
113
Location
Port angeles wa
Sounds like you are not getting adequate supply to the manifold/PCU or you have a big leak. When the controller sees the wet tank pressure switch close(should be around 115PSI) it closes the control solenoid(seals the manifold/system) then it gives a shot of air with the inflate solenoid to pressurize the system and open a path thru the dump and wheel valves. It then looks for wheel pressure. If the pressure is not stable or in the expected range it faults, and the control valve opens which is what it looks like is happening to yours.

the air fill sounds weird. That air comes from the protection valve on the back of the wet tank near that pressure switch. It looks like a regulator, but it is NOT a regulator. It actually works like a wheel valve. As long as the wet tank has 85 PSI the valve is open and will allow air to exit to the accessories like CTIS. When the wet tank pressure drops to 85, it closes and will no longer allow air to escape. That is about the same pressure the wet tank pressure switch opens which informs CTIS that its air supply is exhausted. You can test it by putting a pressure gauge on the wet tank and loosening a fitting off of the protection valve. Air should exit freely till the tank hits 85. You could also take the protection valve out of the equation and connect shop air directly into the PCU supply line and feed CTIS with a known air supply to check function(the fittings thru the floor behind the dash are NPT so this is easy to do).

A leak somewhere in the system could also be causing you issues as the CTIS system wont pressurize properly and fault with a big leak. The best way to troubleshoot leaks is to manually pressurize the ctis system either by controlling the manifold directly or by plumbing in a couple of valves. You can control the manifold with a couple of jumpers from the CTIS controller connector.

My CTIS controller was bricked so I made a manual one to control the PCU. The video gives an idea what the PCU is doing. The gauge is connected where the presure transducer is normally located on the PCU. I discovered a little while after I shot this that the wet tank drains in as little as 3 seconds with low tires and can take 9-12 seconds to refil at high idle...

https://youtu.be/ByW6Q5qJEeE
 
Kemper

Kemper

Member
36
16
8
Location
Centerville, NJ
Ronmar thanks for the great info! Ill by-pass the PCU tomorrow as you suggested. I've come across your video before. That is my last resort if I cannot get the system to work as designed. Will repost the with results.
 
wandering neurons

wandering neurons

Active member
249
113
43
Location
Fallon, NV
Somewhere in SS there's some postings I did several years ago, similar problem with my CTIS. Wound up rebuilding the manifold under the dash using new seals, but I believe that the problem was caused by the pressure transducer that plugs into the manifold. There's no way to test it, but it's an inexpensive part and a quick fix. If you search the FMTV forum, you should find the higher-pressure transducer part number listed. Using this transducer, the CTIS runs higher pressures in the tires all of the time. Something like +15 psi at HWY, and about +5 psi at SAND.
 
Kemper

Kemper

Member
36
16
8
Location
Centerville, NJ
wandering neurons said:
Somewhere in SS there's some postings I did several years ago, similar problem with my CTIS. Wound up rebuilding the manifold under the dash using new seals, but I believe that the problem was caused by the pressure transducer that plugs into the manifold. There's no way to test it, but it's an inexpensive part and a quick fix. If you search the FMTV forum, you should find the higher-pressure transducer part number listed. Using this transducer, the CTIS runs higher pressures in the tires all of the time. Something like +15 psi at HWY, and about +5 psi at SAND.
Click to expand...
Ordered.

Thanks for the idea
 
A

AllenF

Member
56
38
18
Location
Riverside, Ca
Hi Kemper,
How about posting the part # here too and the supplier info as well.
The more threads that have this info the more likely searchers will find it.
:goodjob: Thanks in advance
 
Kemper

Kemper

Member
36
16
8
Location
Centerville, NJ
Supplier: Amazon
Part: AUTEX Pressure Transducer/Sender/Sensor 150/200 Psi Stainless Steel Compatible With Oil, Fuel, Air, Water (150 Psi)

Update:

Pressurized CTIS system after PCU. Let the shop air compressor and the system equalize. Found a leak from the front dump valve. Between the fuel tank and tans. (Thanks Ronmar)
IMG_3527.jpg IMG_0687.jpg IMG_5494.jpg
Removed valve, opened up and found this inside. Normal?? I removed it and it stoped leaking.

IMG_7616.jpgIMG_1667.jpg

Re assembled everything. Tested. HWY light blinks then PCU still dumps air into the system to check wheel pressure. PCU then blows off. All 5 lights flash. PCU pushes air into the system again then blows off.

Next though:
Maybe the transducer is bad. I replace the transducer with the one purchased on Amazon. Same symptoms, Problem unresolved. Note the transducer hits the plastic housing. You need to grind 3 corners off the nut to make it clear.

Could bad wheel valves cause this? Can they be bad if they fill and hold air?
The tires should be equalized after I put in manually?
Is my controller bad?
Pressure switch on wet tank is still jumped.
 
R

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,859
7,498
113
Location
Port angeles wa
Pressurize it with shop air on the PCU input. the shot of inflate from the PCU sounds weird in y0ur video. If the protection valve on the wet tank isn't opening fully and choking your supply it might not pressurize properly thru the PCU and open everything fully with the timed shot of air it receives. That could be causing your fault.
 
Kemper

Kemper

Member
36
16
8
Location
Centerville, NJ
Ronmar said:
Pressurize it with shop air on the PCU input. the shot of inflate from the PCU sounds weird in y0ur video. If the protection valve on the wet tank isn't opening fully and choking your supply it might not pressurize properly thru the PCU and open everything fully with the timed shot of air it receives. That could be causing your fault.
Click to expand...
Ran the PCU on shop air. Still have the same fault.

Solutions still on the "To Do" List
- Have a new CTIS controller on the way. Will swap it in and see if that is the issue
- Disassemble the PCU solenoids and clean again

Last resort
- Build a manual PCU with 24v solenoids
- Run it with an Arduino
- Monitor the pressure with aftermarket TMPS sensors

My though is, all the plumbing is there and working correctly. It will be nice to have for where I want to take the truck.

Thanks for all the help gents
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,926members
165,351threads
2,326,645posts
1,364online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks