CTIS - electrical smoke

[brainsboy]

2001 LMTV

My CTIS has never worked since I bought my truck. Started messing with it and if I hit the CTIS box with a wrench it would start to work then quit. So I bought a new controller and installed it. It seems to work. I can hear valves opening every 15 seconds or so. After the 4th valve sound I started seeing smoke coming up from under the fuse panel. I shut the truck off let the smoke clear and started it back up. Same thing happen around the 4th air valve sound started seeing smoke. So I shut it down opened up the fuse panel so could see behind it and started it again to find where the smoke is coming from, this time it popped the CTIS fuse.

 

[hike]

Sounds like the resistor in the J1939 circuit burned up, it lives under the PDP, there is another in the engine compartment near the engine ECM. We replaced our dead ECU with one from a M939. These CTIS ECU's conflict with those on the LMTV. Or it did on ours, burned up R12 and R13 until we 'adjusted the pins on the new CTIS ECU.





There is a thread here on the forum. It also affected our ABS circuit—

 

[Suprman]

So you have a newer truck with data bus and you plugged in an older style controller and burned out the bus resistors. One under the panel and one in the engine bay drivers side. I have the correct compatible controller if you need one.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

You can also just pull the pins out of the older controller that are responsible for burning out the resistors. They work fine and you can still communicate with them via J1708.

And you need two of these to replace your burnt J1939 resistors:

DT04-3P-P006 | DEUTSCH DT 3 Way Terminating Receptalce

DT04-3P-P006 DEUTSCH connectors in stock. Orders placed by 2pm PT ship same day. Free US shipping on orders $25 or more!

www.customconnectorkits.com

 

[brainsboy]

Which pin do you pull ? My resistor says DT04-3p the link you sent shows DT06 , are the other two resistors different?

Also only found 2 resistors one is by the motor ECU the other under the fuse panel, where is the 3rd?

 

[GeneralDisorder]

According to @hike in this post:

CTIS pressure settings increase - no programming, transducer, or module required.

WABCO ABS module is also on the J1939 although I haven't got one to speak over that bus - only via J1708. They will complain with an ABS light though if the bus is down. According to the schematic they are connected to both busses. It is also possible in theory to connect the 260 amp alternator...

www.steelsoldiers.com

You need to pull pins G, W, and X.

You should read through that entire thread. TONS of information there on the system wiring.

There are only two resistors - both 120 Ohm. When both are good you should see 60 Ohms between J1939 + (high) and J1939 - (low).

Ah yeah - I linked to the wrong one. You need this one:

DT04-3P-P006 | DEUTSCH DT 3 Way Terminating Receptalce

DT04-3P-P006 DEUTSCH connectors in stock. Orders placed by 2pm PT ship same day. Free US shipping on orders $25 or more!

www.customconnectorkits.com

I'll edit the previous post.

 

[Ronmar]

My manual CTIS method has never let any smoke out... just sayin

 

[GeneralDisorder]

My manual method has never let any smoke out... just sayin

Some of us just like gadgets and enjoy playing with obscure things that most people can't have. Also the system is fascinating in how complex yet marvelously simple it is at the same time.

Don't try to make sense of it. It's the difference between jumping out of my truck to throw up the garage door by hand vs. a wireless remote on my sun visor. Do I need it? No. And the manual method is arguably more reliable and also provides exercise.

CTIS is just FUN. With or without a controller. I like the incredible look on people's faces when I press a button and jump out of my truck and it does it all by itself.

And there's a certain amount of street cred for not only having it, but being able to explain how it works as well as maintain, repair, and program it.

Manual is fine. It's just not what I want.

And unlike a lot of other computerized systems - I can just shut it off and manually inflate the tires to whatever I want. So deleting it would not make my truck any more reliable than leaving it and having fun with it. There's no drawback IMO to keeping the computer control. I have spares and controllers pop up CHEAP all the time. Hell I just got a PCU off ebay for $50 shipped because the transducer was busted off.

 

[MatthewWBailey]

My manual CTIS method has never let any smoke out... just sayin

I'll be implementing this method since merry men never included a CTIS controller with mine, or the CTIS hub seals for that matter lol. I gutted a scrap CTIS box I got from eBay for $10. Still sitting on the bench.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I'll be implementing this method since merry men never included a CTIS controller with mine, or the CTIS hub seals for that matter lol. I gutted a scrap CTIS box I got from eBay for $10. Still sitting on the bench.

Wow. Just wow at the MME shenanigans. "They go through the truck top to bottom"....... my anus.

Hub service IS PART OF the annual service on these trucks. I don't know how you can claim you have serviced a truck that hasn't had all the boxes checked on AT LEAST the annual service that the military would quarter-anus....... I guess the Merry Men must have served in the Hawaiian National Guard. Most ate-up bunch of mongrels I've had the pleasure to enjoy BBQ with. If anyone is the most familiar with the art of the pencil whip it's got to be those guys. At least the Hawaiian gun bunnies that I traded annual training with. The 4 foot tall wall of beer cans that ran the length of the Motorpool shop *was* impressive though.

 

[hike]

I'll be implementing this method since merry men never included a CTIS controller with mine, or the CTIS hub seals for that matter lol. I gutted a scrap CTIS box I got from eBay for $10. Still sitting on

@Plasa units are really nice. And the circuit board does all the thinking. I have been looking at how to incorporate the data and push button face into the dash/central console and stashing the rest of the innards with the PCU behind the foot kick—

 

[Ronmar]

Wow. Just wow at the MME shenanigans. "They go through the truck top to bottom"....... my anus.

Hub service IS PART OF the annual service on these trucks. I don't know how you can claim you have serviced a truck that hasn't had all the boxes checked on AT LEAST the annual service that the military would quarter-anus....... I guess the Merry Men must have served in the Hawaiian National Guard. Most ate-up bunch of mongrels I've had the pleasure to enjoy BBQ with. If anyone is the most familiar with the art of the pencil whip it's got to be those guys. At least the Hawaiian gun bunnies that I traded annual training with. The 4 foot tall wall of beer cans that ran the length of the Motorpool shop *was* impressive though.

The key word there is “claimed”…

 

[MatthewWBailey]

Wow. Just wow at the MME shenanigans. "They go through the truck top to bottom"....... my anus.

Hub service IS PART OF the annual service on these trucks. I don't know how you can claim you have serviced a truck that hasn't had all the boxes checked on AT LEAST the annual service that the military would quarter-anus....... I guess the Merry Men must have served in the Hawaiian National Guard. Most ate-up bunch of mongrels I've had the pleasure to enjoy BBQ with. If anyone is the most familiar with the art of the pencil whip it's got to be those guys. At least the Hawaiian gun bunnies that I traded annual training with. The 4 foot tall wall of beer cans that ran the length of the Motorpool shop *was* impressive though.

That's not the best part. I paid 6500 for the "Highway gears". So they had to pull the diffs, and the front diff change requires the pulling of all those parts to get the driveshafts out. So no excuses as to why the seals aren't in there since they had it all apart. Forget the hub service, it's part of swapping diffs. It's fine lol. I'll fix it, like always. It's better if I do it then those guys. Besides, ECO puts me in an almost permanent good mood. Thanks Mike

 

[Plasa]

@Plasa units are really nice. And the circuit board does all the thinking. I have been looking at how to incorporate the data and push button face into the dash/central console and stashing the rest of the innards with the PCU behind the foot kick—

View attachment 930436

Getting the board inside the dash is quite easy, the buttons can also be single buttons, in total 6 wires... I would keep the original connection plug as it's easier to handle.
Christian