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Cucv charging oddity

Kellyboy

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Milton, VT
I understand what both alternators do and that the second one needs a little blip of throttle to excite but mine has a strange startup ritual. Both alt lights work when key is turned, one stays on after started and until throttle blip. The part I don't understand is even after the second light turned off the battery meter doesn't come up for close to a minute no matter what I do with the throttle. When it does come up there is a strange sound from under the dash (imagine pulling 20' out of a tape measure and letting both ends go). That's when the minute of belt squeal starts despite having new and tight belts. Anyone have an idea about the delay on charging?
 

3jumpjeep

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1
18
Location
Linsdale, TN
I understand what both alternators do and that the second one needs a little blip of throttle to excite but mine has a strange startup ritual. Both alt lights work when key is turned, one stays on after started and until throttle blip. The part I don't understand is even after the second light turned off the battery meter doesn't come up for close to a minute no matter what I do with the throttle. When it does come up there is a strange sound from under the dash (imagine pulling 20' out of a tape measure and letting both ends go). That's when the minute of belt squeal starts despite having new and tight belts. Anyone have an idea about the delay on charging?
I don't understand the whole thing, but the manual I read for starting procedure said to wait for the relay (that tearing sound) and the needle moving into the green...Then blip the throttle to excite.

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Kellyboy

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Location
Milton, VT
I don't understand the whole thing, but the manual I read for starting procedure said to wait for the relay (that tearing sound) and the needle moving into the green...Then blip the throttle to excite.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Huh, the alternators on both my tractor and sawmill won't start charging until given throttle so I assumed this was the same. I will definitely try that in the am. Thanks.
 

Barrman

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The glow plug system doing what is called "after glow" is why the volt meter isn't going up for at least 20 seconds after start and depending on the outside air temperature, longer.

Do do you still have the firewall glow plug resistor? If so, both alternators are taxed with charging both batteries being drained by the glow plugs. If your resistor is gone or bypassed. Just Alt 1 is recharging for glow plug draw.
 

Kellyboy

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Milton, VT
The glow plug system doing what is called "after glow" is why the volt meter isn't going up for at least 20 seconds after start and depending on the outside air temperature, longer.

Do do you still have the firewall glow plug resistor? If so, both alternators are taxed with charging both batteries being drained by the glow plugs. If your resistor is gone or bypassed. Just Alt 1 is recharging for glow plug draw.
I removed the firewall resistor and fed the plugs with 12v. I understand that taxes one battery more rather than drawing evenly on the two but it didn't seem to affect the charging delay. I did use the starting method you suggested and got a lot less belt squeal after throttle blip so thanks for that.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
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I have 4 6.2 engines running straight 12 volt glow plug systems. I have learned to use only Gates belts and keep them tight. We don't have a NAPA in my town or I might try them. I tried the house brand at O'Reilly's and Autozone. They barely made it a month before I ran out of tightening room. Squealing at every start up all the way. The Gates ones last about a year but with free replacement warranty, I just pull it off, slip it back in the sleeve I keep in the back of each vehicle to get a new one.

Basically, if you have belt squeal, tighten them. If you still have it, get new belts. If you still have it, get Gates belts or some other brand you think will work.

That wasn't me with the starting procedure suggestion. Basically, by not blipping the throttle or pushing the throttle before starting. You are not activating the fast idle solenoid. Less draw means less load on the alternator.
 

3jumpjeep

Member
157
1
18
Location
Linsdale, TN
The blip before starting well set high idle. After starting wait until the gauge needle goes into the green then rev a bit until the gen light goes out.

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Kellyboy

Member
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6
Location
Milton, VT
I don't understand the whole thing, but the manual I read for starting procedure said to wait for the relay (that tearing sound) and the needle moving into the green...Then blip the throttle to excite.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Much less belt squeal starting that way thanks.
 

Kellyboy

Member
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Location
Milton, VT
Waiting for the afterglow to stop before exciting the alternator helped. I switched over to gates belts two months ago and haven't had a squeak since. Even if I accidently excite the alt on startup.
 

Tinstar

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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What part numbers did you get?

Yes I know that info is elsewhere and it's not for me.

It will help others reading this thread with same issue.

I've been running Gates products for over 30 years.
Only one Belt failure during that time. Just one.
They are worth the money.

Glad they fixed your issue.
 

3jumpjeep

Member
157
1
18
Location
Linsdale, TN
NEW BELTS INSTALLED ARE:

Power steering
gates 7450

Right alternator
gates 7485

Left alternator
Gates 7575
Thank you! I'm about to replace my belts and have a set of NOS a friend gave me, but I want to keep them as spare and put on brand new first quality.

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