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CUCV Cooling System Upgrade Kit

sschaefer3

New member
212
3
0
Location
Tempe, AZ
I do not have the sensor. But if you tell me what sensor it is, I'll buy one. I just want to make sure I'll get all this stuff back in the end.
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
Oh absolutely, I just need to them to make sure everything fits correctly. I could buy the sensor too if I had the part number.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
that is the glow plug controller card sensor but not the one you need That one goes in the passenger side port right behind exhaust manifold. The one you need is for the idiot light.
It goes in the block off plate. I can possibly get a picture of mine.
 

sschaefer3

New member
212
3
0
Location
Tempe, AZ
Idiot light sensor is the front of the driver side head. That is where I plumbed my mechanical temp gauge and I no longer have the idiot light. My truck has a GP sensor on the back of the drivers side.
 
Last edited:

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,479
25
38
Location
Houston Texas
Have yall tried swapping to a 180 deg thermostat? I also swapped to a 6 blade 20inch fan. The stock 5 blade fan isn't up the task. Even towing my tractor in 100+ Texas heat it never breaks 190 now.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
I think the OP's intent is to come up with a system that attempts to improve the 6.2 cooling by directing some coolant flow directly to the rear of the block, where temperatures are much high than average and have an adverse effect on block longevity. Just swapping out stats won't do that.
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,479
25
38
Location
Houston Texas
I agree. I am planning on adding his kit my self. I can understand a 195 tstat for trucks in New England. But for those of us in a warmer climate running so close to critical temps can't be a good idea. I would think a lower inlet water temp could only help keep these hot spots in check. A bigger 6 blade fan and a lower tstat should help reduce these temps through out the block/heads. Some guys out west are running well over 200. too hot for my comfort.
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
This is the rear of my Drive Side head. View attachment 682387
This is what I need in hand. I assume both the two wire and the single wire are identical thread count and size. What I am going to do is fabricate a custom block off plate to contain both the sensor and my coolant fitting but the packaging is VERY tight and I dont want to start making these unless I know it will fit properly. I am getting a bunch of HMMWV kits out this week and will get back on this once I have a sensor in hand. I should be able to get this done next week or two.
 

rsh4364

Active member
1,372
15
38
Location
greensprings ,ohio
Where does the AN fitting to hose barb 90 go to? I'm thinking heater but my humvee crossover has heater hose outlet in same spot as my cucv crossover.
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
Where does the AN fitting to hose barb 90 go to? I'm thinking heater but my humvee crossover has heater hose outlet in same spot as my cucv crossover.
I have fabricated an adapter that moves the thermostat and cover out from the crossover a bit and allows for the return from my system into the adapter.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
You can purchase in line thermostats, just wondering if it would be simplified and give better flow if the rear cross overs connected to an in line thermostat which could then return to the radiator side of thermostat. It would be possible also to split the radiator hose with a simple T.

This would bypass the need for the dual thermostat setup that the cucv does not have

just a thought. carry on
Rich
 
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