CUCV crank NO START troubleshooting and questions

[WWRD99]

I think that I may redo my work on it and utilize the fusible link and thankfully I still have it, you don’t think that that wire above will have a problem with the draw? Also what does this bracket for the starter look like because i definitely don’t remember having one and or seeing it on the truck anywhere under there. So Iam going to definitely make sure I find one because that is one thing I do not want to do is dig those out if they break.

If you already have the wire, I wouldn't worry about it. You could put the end of the stock wire on for the fusible link. All of mine are wired like the pic I posted. The starter bracket attaches to the end of an outer bolt for the case or an aluminum arm with a stud. There's 2 different brackets, depending on which starter you have. I replace the bolts to the block with arp ones. The bolt for the bracket into the block is an 8x1.50 x 1 inch...I use washers and see how far it'll go in then adjust so it won't bottom out. I use blue lock tight on it, too. You don't want it to come loose. As far as the starter pics you posted above, that's a dead horse. Online most everything is a china kick. I do like the used gm ones from a few guys online around 130 shipped home.

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[Blastercanon1]

If you already have the wire, I wouldn't worry about it. You could put the end of the stock wire on for the fusible link. All of mine are wired like the pic I posted. The starter bracket attaches to the end of an outer bolt for the case or an aluminum arm with a stud. There's 2 different brackets, depending on which starter you have. I replace the bolts to the block with arp ones. The bolt for the bracket into the block is an 8x1.50 x 1 inch...I use washers and see how far it'll go in then adjust so it won't bottom out. I use blue lock tight on it, too. You don't want it to come loose. As far as the starter pics you posted above, that's a dead horse. Online most everything is a china kick. I do like the used gm ones from a few guys online around 130 shipped home.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Would it be worth getting the gear reduction starter over the direct drive one? I am going to call Boyce and see about maybe exchanging the one I got for one with the gear reduction and maybe even a bracket to go with it but I am diffidently going to pick up those ARP Starter bolts. I will let you know what they say after I call them and see what my options are as far as a used one goes, again thank you for all your help and incite

 

[Barrman]

GM went to the Korean built reduction drive starter around the time they came out with the 6.5 engine. It was cheaper to build and lighter. Good and Good from their point of view. The military supply chain had to switch over as well.

I actually like the old heavy straight US made Delco starter. They are easier by a little to take apart. If you have a good straight unit, get the bracket and worry about something else. If you have a good reduction drive, get the bracket and worry about something else.

My first few years of CUCV ownership had a failed straight starter, a failed straight starter solenoid (Import on line purchase), seeing other people in CUCV’s at parades have starters fail for parade start up, hearing stories of starters failing at drive thru windows and other things that made me paranoid. So, I found spare starters, bolts, brackets and a case to carry them around in all of my trucks. Along with the tools to swap them out anywhere I might be.

I ended up with 3 straight starters and 2 redux units on road vehicles. The last one I had to change, at home when it sounded bad was almost 4 years ago now. That was a redux. The last straight I had to change for any reason was over 12 years ago. They can and will be reliable once you get everything sorted with quality parts.