CUCV Evaluation

[iteration zero]

Hey guys,

I've learned a lot by lurking on the forums and I'm ready to start fixing my M1031 that I just purchased. I have serious concerns though and was wondering if any Milwaukee-near members maybe would like to come over and check it out. The main issue is frame rust. I was underneath the rear of the truck last night installing a license plate bracket on the rear bumper and it was snowing rust. Larger chunks and finer pieces. Did I spend $2500 on a set of awesome axles, 6.2 diesel, a hood, and glass?

Regards,
i0

 

[The FLU farm]

Rust can always be fixed. If it's worth the effort is another story.
If nothing else, you could always put your M1031 specific things on a regular 1-ton in good shape.

 

[Jozseph]

FWIW - The utility box is aluminum.

 

[iteration zero]

FWIW - The utility box is aluminum.

Its a re-purposed M1031. The utility box was removed and replaced with a bed. There were communications mounts on it so I am thinking it is actually a M1028A1 now.

 

[iteration zero]

Rust can always be fixed. If it's worth the effort is another story.
If nothing else, you could always put your M1031 specific things on a regular 1-ton in good shape.

This is what I am wondering...do I just do a 'burb conversion?

 

[glaser06]

This is what I am wondering...do I just do a 'burb conversion?

Not a bad idea, what kind of shape is the body in?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[porkysplace]

Rust can always be fixed. If it's worth the effort is another story.
If nothing else, you could always put your M1031 specific things on a regular 1-ton in good shape.

Frame rust is hard to fix , except a new frame . It seems is style GM likes to rust through right in front of the front of the rear spring mount .

 

[The FLU farm]

Frame rust is hard to fix , except a new frame . It seems is style GM likes to rust through right in front of the front of the rear spring mount .

What are the odds? I just happen to have those sections of frame left over after shortening the M1008.

 

[iteration zero]

Here is the Driver's Side front to rear.

 

[iteration zero]

Here is Passenger's Side from front to rear.

 

[The FLU farm]

While you can't see the part porkysplace mentioned, the frame doesn't look too horrible to me.

 

[iteration zero]

I think these are supermodel pictures...these areas don't look that good to the naked eye. The steel is flaking off like it's old, wet plywood that's delaminating. This is why I would like someone to pop on by and take a look at it with me.

 

[glaser06]

Personally, I'd get a wire brush/wheel/scraper, etc and a can of Rustoleum Rust Reformer (or if you have the $$$ Eastwood makes a great product as well). Knock all the heavy stuff off and coat is good with the spray then coat with a good spray paint (Rustoleum or similar) or undercoat. Stuff works wonders and unless you're able to poke through in places, I'd run the frame as-is.

 

[iteration zero]

Personally, I'd get a wire brush/wheel/scraper, etc and a can of Rustoleum Rust Reformer (or if you have the $$$ Eastwood makes a great product as well). Knock all the heavy stuff off and coat is good with the spray then coat with a good spray paint (Rustoleum or similar) or undercoat. Stuff works wonders and unless you're able to poke through in places, I'd run the frame as-is.

For an Overlander/Rock Crawling/Mudder rig? That was my initial plan for it. I might be able to get away with that as a work truck but would that fix hold up to trail abuse?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Look between parts riveted to the frame. Is rust expanding and pushing them off? Is the lip of the frame rusted down to a knife edge? If you see noneof that, you should be fine. M1008 frames pop up. Back halfing a 1031 with a donor frame would not be a seriously complicated project.

 

[glaser06]

Yeah, especially for that. It's unlikely to suffer a catastrophic failure, clean it up, do inspections regularly (as you would with any trail rig...i/e every time it goes out) and if it becomes an issue, repair it. If it's not, don't worry about it as that's a lot of work for something that may or may not be a problem. If you do have a failure, it will likely be a small crack that grows slowly at first then picks up speed as it gets bigger so detecting it early is key. A clean frame (even with slight pitting) is much easier to inspect than a dirty, rusty, nasty one where cracks could be hiding underneath the layers of rust.

After you clean it up you'll have a much better idea of the scope of the damage (as will we here on the other end of the screen). If it is a total loss after it's clean, at least you'll be real familiar with the bottom side of your truck (never a bad thing!)

 

[glaser06]

Look between parts riveted to the frame. Is rust expanding and pushing them off? Is the lip of the frame rusted down to a knife edge? If you see noneof that, you should be fine. M1008 frames pop up. Back halfing a 1031 with a donor frame would not be a seriously complicated project.

Also really good advice here ^^^

 

[The FLU farm]

Too bad you're a ways away. I should sell this practically rust free Suburban. Cheap, too, if I keep the engine, trans, x-fer case and axles.
Was going to make an M1007 of sorts, but it won't happen.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Too bad you're a ways away. I should sell this practically rust free Suburban. Cheap, too, if I keep the engine, trans, x-fer case and axles.
Was going to make an M1007 of sorts, but it won't happen.View attachment 681996

That would be an excellent candidate for a psuedo military burb project.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Too bad you're a ways away. I should sell this practically rust free Suburban. Cheap, too, if I keep the engine, trans, x-fer case and axles.
Was going to make an M1007 of sorts, but it won't happen.View attachment 681996

That would be an excellent candidate for a psuedo military burb project.