• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

CUCV head gasket / head/ or change engine survey

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,679
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
Just read the whole thread on your resto/headgasket replacement. I must say that I had a smile on my face the whole time.

I'm glad to see that you are not the only one in this world that starts out with a simple bulb replacement and ends up restoring

the vehicle-- lol Like you, when I start on something I catch myself doing way more than what was planned, it's one of my quirks.

Well my hats of to you my friend, outstanding work!
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I just read this whole thread, for me that's really something cause I usually just browse! It's amazing how a simple little project can get big real quick. Been there and still doing it.(shaking my head) I never realized you had put that much time and effort into the mule, one thing you didn't get into is how you closed off the front of the 'bed'. In one pic it looks like you use the front bed panel and welded and sealed it, is that it? Good work on the truck and a great job documenting it! If you do go topless that will be so cool! I'd drive down there just to check it out. BTW the donor blazer is painted just like one of my trucks but mine's a little more yellow.

That picture of the donor Blazer is a Google image picture. the one I am getting is Orange and White. I did use the front bed wall and it is bolted in place and I used 1/8" formed aluminum angle on the sides and riveted it in place and used the original bolt holes on the bed wall.
 

rollingcoal

New member
10
0
0
Location
VA/VA
I read most of the thread and found very useful information for when I am ready to gut my 6.2 and rebuild it as well. What would you say was the hardest part of the whole process?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Getting the engine out from under the hood with the wheels on. If you take notice I removed my front wheels to get the front end down. It was easier all around. I dropped the transmission as an after thought and had it and the transfer case overhauled. So I would say that is the hardest part. Other then that easy and straight forward. Stay the course and take our time and clean and paint as you go. I don't change everything. But if it is a know failure part I replace it. Water pump,torque converter, rear main seal and of course have the heads gone over and reworked, New head bolts. That is all I ever do. Good luck any questions or doubt ask I and others can help. Have a great day. Remember you only have 135 hp on these engines when they were built. They hold up well as is. Just keep that in mind.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Both combined I had spent about $1000. The transmission was just slow 45 seconds on going into forward gear in the winter and it had 97K miles on it on top of being 31 years old. The seals and internal parts were dry and brittle. I tend to get this overhauled before they let me set. It always comes out less expensive that way. Down time and towing figured in. The torque converter was optional but while I was there another $150. was money well spent. I have driven my Mule hard over the past winter and with 0 incidents. 1 time at below 0 it would not start. Oh well I have modern trucks. Good Luck.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF7463.jpgDSCF7464.jpgDSCF7465.jpgDSCF7466.jpgI turned the Mule odometer back to day one. I went home for lunch and it was ready to turn so as always I timed it just right so the transition takes place on the road in front of my property. I will treat the Mule to a complete service and I have washed it and scrubbed the tires. I will take it to the local GM dealer for a complete 27 point service and safety check. You always need another pair of eyes looking at your vehicles. At about $60. I think it is a great deal. Till I buy the oil 2 gallons of Rotella T 15w40 and a filter I have about $35.-$40. in it. Hardly worth the effort for the rest when I figure the dirt and disposal of used oil. Have a great day. I am on mile 1 again, and it is running fine. Besides I have other things to do besides change oil. Anyone can do that.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF2024.jpgDSCF2023.jpgIt has been a year since my complete overhaul of the Mule. I have driven it several thousand miles and without incident. Today I noticed a slight drip from the drivers side. And it was antifreeze. With all the negative talk about Autozone parts I was thinking maybe it could be the radiator. I am sorry to disappoint you it was NOT the radiator. It was that piece of junk genuine GM over flow bottle that had cracked. Junk they puyt on these vehicles. And NAPA sells the real good ones that are made in Taiwan. I dug around my warehouse and found a couple new GM ones and went and put one in. Last I bought these was 2004. DSCF2022.jpgMy that is a nice pretty thing. I am not sure why the original one broke but it did. Seems the plastic parts get brittle after 33 years of use. DSCF2025.jpgDSCF2026.jpgAll installed and replaced and back on the road or in the field. I will drive it up to Rausch Creek. But I will not wheel it. Worst use I do with the Mule M1009 is snow driving. I mean you don't want me driving my new 4 X 4 truck in the snow. It may get scratched. Take care thanks for looking. Back on the highway to _ell.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
today I replaced the hose for the overflow bottle. I just used some good old 3/8" fuel line. The older material had cracks in it and was somewhat stretched. I suppose that could have done the cracking of the over flow bottle. I remember how well my wife scrubbed and cleaned that bottle 2 years back. I was going to toss it and add a new one and she said I can bleach all that stain out and it worked. I also wonder if the bleach weakened the old plastic. No worries, It is fixed now.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Trucklite, 27450C LED Rectangular headlamp 5 X 7.
Light Source:
2 LED Arrays
9v-33v Multi-volt design works with both
12v and 24v systems

I am reposting this information on the LED head lamps. Swiss requested this information. Happy Holidays.
5'' x 7'' Rectangular LED Headlamp, Complex Reflector Optics
Material:
Hard-coated polycarbonate lens
eCoat aluminum housing and internal structures
Metalized Reflector
16 Gauge Wire
Light Source:
2 LED Arrays
9v-33v Multi-volt design works with both
12v and 24v systems
Designed At:
12.8v, 1.80a (low beam), 3.60 amps (high beam)
25.6v, 1.00a (low beam), 1.80 amps (high beam)
Additional Specifications:
Operating temperature range: -40˚C to 50˚C
Overvoltage protection to 600v, w/constant output
Mechanical aim
Recommended Accessories:
96630 H4 to H13 adapter

Click to see larger image

  • When properly mounted, the lamp is designed to conform to the requirements listed in the Department of Transportation (DOT), FMVSS-108 and Transport Canada (TC), CMVSS-108. Headlamps marked with the DOT symbol signifies the lamps are street legal.
  • Excellent option for light, medium and heavy-duty trucks, off-road vehicles, classic cars, motorcycles and more.
  • Metalized reflector optics provide a lighting experience that smooth and clean across the driving surface
  • Provides a brighter, crisper and whiter light output, closer to the color temperature of daylight, dramatically improving light projection distance and overall visibility
  • Durability and dependability of LED lighting provides a solid-state, bulb-free headlamp design that impervious to damage from shock and vibration
  • Military grade, die-cast aluminum housing and non-yellowing, polycarbonate lens offer optimum protection against damage from impact, roadside debris and other hazards
  • Electronics are sealed in epoxy to resist from damage caused by corrosion or moisture
  • Advanced circuitry protects against voltage spikes up to 600v
  • Drop-in replacement for #6052, 6053, H6054, and HP6054 headlamp designs.
  • Uses standard, H4, 3-blade wiring connector
  • Equipped with Truck-Lite 3-Year Limited Warranty
I am reposting this information for Swiss. Happy Holidays. I hope this helps you out.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
  • Military grade, die-cast aluminum housing and non-yellowing, polycarbonate lens offer optimum protection against damage from impact, roadside debris and other hazards
  • I was digging that part. And the variable voltage is a real plus. 9 volt to 33 volts They are a bit pricey shop around a bit. I like them and think they are worth it. More useful then a lift kit or big tires for me. And less money and work to install. They just POP with that black looking lense. Everyone has a lift kit with big tires. WOW. I am too old for the height and rough ride. I just need a little more light on the road. And these are nice to on coming traffic drivers. Unlike the HID's I had in the past. I got more hi beams with them HID's then I ever did even with the Halogen driving lights on. Remember I am free to say that. I am an American. :) Please don't take offense. But from a safety standpoint the LED's are money well spent.

This is some more info on the LED truck lite headlamps. Swiss I hope you find it helpful.
 

swiss

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,731
856
113
Location
Oakwood, Ga
This is some more info on the LED truck lite headlamps. Swiss I hope you find it helpful.
Thank You CUCVRUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have to get over the cost, but I think the wife needs a good idea for a Christmas present for me this year..........................
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF2642.jpgDSCF2643.jpgDSCF2627.jpgDSCF2628.jpgDSCF2629.jpgDSCF2630.jpgThis is my Mule M1009 thread and today was a bad day. I was stuck in the yard. The ground is not frozen beneath the snow and the wheels just spun when I engaged the 4 WD. I hooked onto one of the GM tow hooks and the bubba rope and snapped the tow hook off the truck. I bought them tow hooks at the YOUPULLIT and the left one was bend. I heated and straightened it. It must have weakened it. All is well. No harm No foul. I hooked on the right one and with a tug it was out and on the road. DSCF2592.jpgThat is more than I can say for my Cadillac. It is slightly snowed in at the moment. And I moved it out of the garage because I thought the foul weather was over.
 
Last edited:

dougco1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
867
647
93
Location
Cooperstown NY
Rick,
How much snow did you get down there? We broke some records up here in Cooperstown with 31"+. some of the small towns in the hills reported 40"+ but I was to busy plowing to go measure their back yards.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF2721.jpgToday I rolled up the back window of my Mule M1009. it is up for the season. I cleanede all the leaves and saw dust out of the bed. DSCF2694.jpgDSCF2693.jpgLast week I used it to haul a lot of wood. I do NOT have any trailer queens. I use them and seldom abuse them.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Last night I struck a deal with a gentlemen. He has purchased the Mule M1009. It will be leaving at the end of the month. I will be returning it to an M1009 again. I am happy to pass it along to someone that will care and appreciate it as much or better then I have over the years. I still have a few more to sell and will keep selling them till they are gone. Onto another adventure in life. Have a great day. I will post pictures of the construction.
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
4,166
393
83
Location
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
View attachment 621711A few weeks back I spotted a 1974 K5 Blazer that was For Sale. The body was rough as most are and I missed the opportunity to buy the vehicle. My friend owns a towing business and had the job of hauling the vehicle home for the buyer. It turns out the man bought it for the 350 4 bolt main 4 barrel engine and 4 speed transmission and axles. He wanted my friend to haul the scrap body away. i did some scouting and was able to get right up to it. I will be getting the body and converting the Mule to a full fledged convertible. I hate to cut the roof off after so much work was done to it. But the existing roof will be surgically removed and stored. The Cool factor of the full convertible out weighs the rest of my desires to have the Mule. I will look forward to this conversion. I do not want to bump it up in line of my other projects but it is very tempting. I know that the prep of the donor parts is going to be extensive. I tried selling the Mule and no body wanted to pay anything so I will keep it and make it unique. Cutting a set of doors and saving the existing doors is what I will be doing. Maybe even tube doors. I will look at the legality of that before I act on it. i don't need Johnny Law on my back every day. Just sharing this to see the general consensus. Have a great day. be nice with your opinion or keep it to yourself. I will cut the 1974 fiberglass roof like the Mules short roof so I can use it is winter. Then again maybe not. I have undecided. I have a roof to store it with my motorcycle that I never ride anymore.
Are you going full convertible this winter? Can't wait to see your write up on that mod, there are some guys on CK5 that have done it, I have thought about cutting one of mine several times.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I still have all the parts and several M1009's in storage. So I hope to someday. I will post pictures when I do. But it will get kicked to the side as Hot Rodding and modification. Not sure yet as to when I want to dive into that project. I still have the parts. Want to buy them?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks