• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

CUCV in Alaska

Russm

Active member
244
69
28
Location
Ft. Wainwright, AK
So I just found out I'm getting sent to Alaska, most likely towards the end of this year. I want to get ahead of the game and prep my m1009 for the cold.

I found Jatonka's grille cover, going to get that.
Plug in block heater, shouldn't be too hard to install. But is there a specific one I need?
I've seen some eBay listings for the nos diesel fired heater. Do I need this or can a block heater warm me up enough?
I'm also reading about switching to 5w40 oil for my wife's diesel, I assume the same is a good idea for the m1009?
Along the same lines, having a plug in battery tender for the cold nights would be a good idea? I'm assuming yes just looking for some similar experiences.


I don't know yet if I'll have a garage.

Picture for attention:

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

Attachments

Last edited:

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania

I have always installed the water jacket style block heater. This is what GM supplied from the factory during the diesel run back in the late 70's - 1990's. Always worked and actually if left in the defrost position on the older cable controlled HVAC control systems the windshield stayed half clear and frost free. I let it plugged in all day and night until I need the truck. I used the same ones for over 20 years. Make sure the connection is tight in the block heater and the cord is secured against any sharp or hot contact areas. That Easy. Be Safe. Good Luck.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
That freeze plug/expansion plug hole is the center one on the drivers side. Just brave it and go up there and punch it out. The warmer the coolant the more dangerous it gets. I recommend doing it with a cold engine. Really no other way to drain the block. I use the coolant one because I think it works best. No need to warm batteries with the coolant warm the glow light only stays on briefly in the coldest days of winter. I plug it in even in an unheated garage. World of difference. I had a customer tell me his was plugged in 24 / 7 and it still started hard. I went under and looked and it was not plugged into the block element. Lot of good that was doing. Be Safe and Stay Warm.
 

snowtrac nome

Well-known member
1,674
140
63
Location
western alaska
You might want to look into a more modern fuel burning heater. The old stewart warners are tempermental , and thirsty. before you go to that expence try a good 205 degree thermostat you might be surprised how much free heat you can get. a swing fire heater set up is a good thing to have if you are parked some place all day with no source of electricity.
 

Russm

Active member
244
69
28
Location
Ft. Wainwright, AK
I'm not understanding the purpose of the 205* thermostat. I have a 190* in right now and it never even gets close to that on these chilly 40* days

Are there any other ways of heating the engine (or ensuring it starts) aside from the swingfire when the car is parked away from a power source?

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

Russm

Active member
244
69
28
Location
Ft. Wainwright, AK
I have seen posts of people mixing in 10-25% gasoline into their diesel to combat gelling and ease starting at the low Alaskan winter temps. Anyone with experience in this?

Also... Diesel number 1. Is that a thing up north? I've never seen it anywhere I've lived.


Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

royalflush55

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
654
537
93
Location
Reydon, OK
Kerosene is the same as number 1 diesel. It is a little bit lighter weight than number 2 diesel. It also has a slightly lower btu rating.

Kerosene is also called coal oil and is used in coal oil lamps.
 
Last edited:

snowtrac nome

Well-known member
1,674
140
63
Location
western alaska
up here the diesel is seasonaly switched to #1 I know of no one who mixes gas and diesel sounds like a recipe for disaster. a space heater is another option there are some 12 volt models sold for heating small planes I have used a weed burner stuffed inside a stove pipe in the past to. there is a company called planair they import both air and hydronic heaters from Russia. compaired to espbacher and wabesto heaters they are affordable and reliable I have an air heater I replaced a 10530 stewart warner with and I can testify its light years more reliable and cleaner than the old military heater was.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Where in Alaska?
 

snowtrac nome

Well-known member
1,674
140
63
Location
western alaska
also a 205 degree thermostat will regulate the temp right around 200 degrees coupled with a winter front and maube an aux heater in the back like a van you will be toasty warm. I have done just the thermostat on many pickups and it has worked wonders for heat also a little advance in the timing will help add heat and ease start up the down side will be a little more noise and higher nox emissions.
 

Russm

Active member
244
69
28
Location
Ft. Wainwright, AK
Thought up another question:

Chains needed? Rear wheels or all 4? I have 37" Humvee tires. Will a limited slip or locker in the front diff help?

I have no experience with chains

Thank you for replies

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

snowtrac nome

Well-known member
1,674
140
63
Location
western alaska
lockers and limited slip differentials are a 2 edged sward you can get increased forward traction with them, but they can also make driving on ice unpredictable especially the govlock, the best solution is a selectable locker like the arb . Chains on the rear are a good idea, I have at times on ice also wrapped one around a front tire for steering in real bad ice conditions. A tire with a softer rubber compound and a tight tread block will give the best performance for winter driving the Humvee 37 inch raidials work pretty good n the snow and ice. The one thing to remember up here is to use chains to get out of trouble, not get your self in deeper help can be a long ways away summer or winter and it can be deadly in the winter waiting for help. In the summer you want a large rifle or shot gun when you are out of town if you have to walk out of some place you do not want to find out you are not at the top of the food chain.
 

royalflush55

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
654
537
93
Location
Reydon, OK
I knew I built an AR in .458 for something! Put that built in rifle rack to work

Thank you for the tips

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
Shoot it right handed then shoot it left handed and then you can clap with your shoulder blades!:LOL:
 

sniderbm

New member
4
0
1
Location
Wichita/KS
this would be my suggestion for a front locker (and / or rear)

cable driven so it doesn't rely on air compressor or electrical signal (they do offer air / electric options too). Open diff for driving on the street but fully locked if needed. Also has an add-on screw in plug thing to force it to lock if you somehow break the cable.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks