CUCV Motor Mount Recommendations

[cucvrus]

I have a replacement oil pan if the need arises. I would fix the one you have. Good Luck. Happy Holidays.

 

[jplace1011]

I have a replacement oil pan if the need arises. I would fix the one you have. Good Luck. Happy Holidays.
View attachment 885102
View attachment 885103

@cucvrus Thank You Rick! I ordered a used one, but the idea of hammering my dented one out is a good one. I may have to do that if the pan I ordered doesn’t get here in time.

From what I read in the TM, taking the Pan off is fairly simple. It’s just a matter of unscrewing all the pieces, then cleaning it up. Then just add a new gasket and thin layer of Gasket Maker and bolt it back up to specs with a torque wrench.

Will I have to do anything with the Oil Pump or anything else? Is there anything else I should be aware of or pay special attention to? I just don’t want to undo it all and go what do I do now?

I’m still learning.


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[jplace1011]

@cucvrus Thank You Rick! I ordered a used one, but the idea of hammering my dented one out is a good one. I may have to do that if the pan I ordered doesn’t get here in time.

From what I read in the TM, taking the Pan off is fairly simple. It’s just a matter of unscrewing all the pieces, then cleaning it up. Then just add a new gasket and thin layer of Gasket Maker and bolt it back up to specs with a torque wrench.

Will I have to do anything with the Oil Pump or anything else? Is there anything else I should be aware of or pay special attention to? I just don’t want to undo it all and go what do I do now?

I’m still learning.


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p.s. @cucvrus Rick, The Rear Main Seal isn’t something I should address as well?

I had it done not long ago. I have been fixing seals, so I can’t say whether it’s leaking or not.


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[cucvrus]

You are all good. The biggest PITA is keeping the trans cooler lines tucked to the side. Easy done with a zip tie or bungee. Good Luck. You can do this. I use the gasket and Permatex the Right Stuff. Done hundreds of engines and never had issues.

 

[jplace1011]

You are all good. The biggest PITA is keeping the trans cooler lines tucked to the side. Easy done with a zip tie or bungee. Good Luck. You can do this. I use the gasket and Permatex the Right Stuff. Done hundreds of engines and never had issues.

@cucvrus Rick, I have a quick question. Should I use the small separate rubber part of the Oil Pan Gasket or just put Gasket maker in it’s place?

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[87cr250r]

Use the rubber piece. Notice the grid pattern on it's surface. That's meant to hold the silicone sealant so it doesn't get squished out.

 

[cucvrus]

May I add that at the front of the oil pan where the gasket must curve to meet the front timing cover, at that area in the bend put a bead of the right stuff just a small bead that runs side to side with the bend. Also be careful when installing the bolts in the front timing cover. Only tighten any of the bolts after all the bolts are hand started. All the bolts, even the ones on the oil pan must be evenly tightened my hand before doing the final tightening. The front timing cover is aluminum and will strip easily if steel M6 bolts are forced into the threads. We don't need that. Torque is in inch pounds. Not Foot pounds.
There is a paragraph in the PMCS section that says to check the oil pan bolts semi-annually and tighten them to 5 ft-lbs. There is a list at the back of the TM 9-2320-289-20 that has general specs Looking thru the 6.2L/6.5L HMMWV engine manual TM 9-2815-237-34 it shows 48-120 lb-in for the side screws and 156-240 lb-in for the rear main screws Good Luck and take your time. You got this. Apply the sealant to a clean surface of the oil pan flange and then apply the gasket. Put a thin layer of sealant on the gasket and hoist it on up. Getting 1 screw/bolt in each side to start. Remain Calm. Happy Holidays. Report back please.

 

[79Vette]

I'm late to this thread, but I run the Off Road Design mounts anytime I need to replace a set. They area significantly stronger than the OEM style clamshell design.


The frame side is the sleeve with bushings, and the plate is the motor side. The motor just drops into place and then you pin it with the bolt through both sides

 

[ezgn]

I'm late to this thread, but I run the Off Road Design mounts anytime I need to replace a set. They area significantly stronger than the OEM style clamshell design.
View attachment 885832

The frame side is the sleeve with bushings, and the plate is the motor side. The motor just drops into place and then you pin it with the bolt through both sides
View attachment 885833

Here is an alternative video to the conventional motor mounts installation guide.

 

[jplace1011]

Here is an alternative video to the conventional motor mounts installation guide.

@ezgn @cucvrus

The Transmission Mounts were just installed, so I went underneath the engine to clean up things to make sure there are no leaks.

While under there, I realized something, there are only 2 Bolts and Nuts for the Motor Mount on the Passengers Side! Is this going to be a problem, do I need to add the 3rd Bolt?

I circled the Hole where the 3rd Bolt should be, and there’s a close up of the hole which is a bit off center, if that matters/helps.

*There are 3 Bolts and Nuts on the Drivers Side

The Mobile Mechanic who installed the Mounts, says the Bolt was sheared off. Maybe or maybe not?

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[87cr250r]

Yes, you're missing one. You can see witness marks from the bolt that used to be there. It would be wise to replace it.

No, it wasn't sheared off. There is no way that bolt could see forces that would cause it to shear.

 

[jplace1011]

Yes, you're missing one. You can see witness marks from the bolt that used to be there. It would be wise to replace it.

No, it wasn't sheared off. There is no way that bolt could see forces that would cause it to shear.

@87cr250r I had a feeling he was full of it! He just didn’t install it! Ugh!

Thanks for the heads up!!


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