CUCV "Must do" mods?

[michigan4x4]

Hey guys. I am fairly new to the site and MV's in general. I am picking up my first CUCV this Saturday from a private seller. It is an 1985 M1009 in really nice condition. I was wondering if there is a thread dedicated to "must do" mods? I searched the site but only found general mods having to do with everything under the sun...
I am not concerned with performance mods at this time, but any mod that concerns drivability, Engine starting, and reliability. In other words what should I do when I get the truck home or shortly thereafter to increase my chances of having a reliable truck capable of several hundred mile trips? The doghead relay mod seems popular. Anything else?

I plan on checking/changing all fluids, belts and hoses... what else?

PS. The vehicle is currently running and driving....

Thanks
Jeff

 

[combat32]

Cupholder! I use a roll of duct tape on the transmission hump, works great.

 

[cucv1833]

I thought there was a thread about this but i cant find it. If it was me when i got my new m1009 home,
-I changed all the Fluids filters
-check the starter support bracket make sure its there
-Dog head relay mod
-check and lube front wheel bearings
-Check harmonic balancer is in good cond.
-Clean electrical conections

Then enjoy the truck if everything is working properly

 

[edpdx]

If your new MV is like most from the Army, then you may consider a detailed interior sprucing up:

Remove the dash pad. If it is in good shape the clean and paint it. If it is not... get one from a truck or blazer or suburban from the wrecking yard- you may have to keep looking until you find one in good shape.

Get a dashMat. This will hide any sins on your old dash pad until you can get a primo replacement. Ebay has them in all colors cheap- the AutoZone, et al, will have them for a few bucks more. The burgundy ones match the original seat colors pretty nicely.

Since the top of your dash is open, it is a good time for a radio to get installed. unscrew the radio delete and find an old style radio, or go hi-tek and get a killer stereo put in. No antenna probably. I grounded the base of a mast antenna from the wrecking yard and laid it on the dash- under the dash PAD. Comes in clear.

• Also take this opportunity to pull the instrument cluster and:
• - change all light bulbs
• - Clean all contacts with contact cleaner
• - Add a temp gauge to supplement the idiot light- it goes in nicely next to the Voltage meter. You'll also need to get GM part 14028949- Cover AY, Cylinder Head. See other threads for this part of the install.
• - Polish the lens from the cluster with plastic lens polish from the auto parts store. It is easy and makes the cluster look new
• - also get a small bottle of gun sight paint or hot pink, red or yellow nail polish and repaint the needle on your speedometer.
• - Pop out the lighter delete and wire a wrecking yard lighter in place- be sure to understand how the originals come apart and are installed. Even if you don't smoke, you probably have a cell phone that needs charging.
• - If you have one of those Arctic heater mounting plates bolted to the center of your dashboard, remove it, sand it with scotchbrite and prime and paint it- I like the Chalkboard Flat black.
• - Front panel of the instrument Cluster is a black piece with all the cutouts for the gauges. Clean it front and back. Prime it with the SEM Vinyl Prep and paint it with Landau Black spray paint. It will set off the dash as NEW.
• - Lastly With all parts off of the dash, do a quick mask and shoot the steel dash chassis with '383' Green from Rapco Parts.

The floor and doors and sound dampening can be tackled another day.

Good luck on your new rig!

 

[idM1028]

Check for leaks. These old trucks are known to be a bit leaky. Some leaks (differentials, transmission pan) can be shored up with a bit of RTV sealant until you replace the fluids and gaskets. Might also want to check your glow plugs. Attach a circuit tester to the end of the plug with the key off and touch the tip to a hot 12V source. If the light doesn't come on, the plug is bad. These trucks can still start up without the plugs in warmer weather. Check for rust, particularly around the front wheel wells. GM used a small piece of sheet metal secured with screws in the back of the front wheel. Typically, this part starts rusting out first and causes the rest of the wheel well to rust out. I would recommend cutting out the bad metal and welding in a small patch piece if this has happened.

 

[michigan4x4]

Thanks guys. As I said, I am buying the truck from a private seller (out of state) and he stated the truck is in perfect running/driving condition. Well "perfect" to you and I may mean something completely than different than "perfect" to him. I put a nonrefundable deposit on the truck so that he would hold it for a week and will be paying the remainder of the money after I inspect and test drive. The truck has 83,000 miles and it appears that the seller has only had it for a few weeks. I think he won it off GL.


So let me simplify this a bit.... What if you had just brought your new/used CUCV home and had somewhere around $500-700 to address know gremlins, divability issues, starting issues. How would you spend the money? The interior isnt super important to me now and I can clean it and paint it as time permits. I am talking about the must do electrical work, solenoid swaps, glow plug replacements etc.. If these are the items that I should be concerned with, can any of you direct me to specific threads addressing these issues/fixes?

Another question... when I do finally inspect the truck and take it for a drive are there any things that my get may immediate attention as a possible problem but are just "normal" for an CUCV? I know this is a 26 year old truck and I am expecting that. I also know that it will be noisy (engine noise/interior noise)...anything else you guys can think off.


Thank you!!
Jeff

 

[Warthog]

First thing to do is download the FREE Techincal Manuals for the CUCV.

www.jatonkam35s.com

Second is to read the CUCV Wiki and Stickies

Third - the Dodhead Starter Relay Modification.

Forth - start buying a few tools: Battery Charger, Battery Load Tester and a Digital Voltmeter

Fifth - start the cleaning process for the electrical connections as the Electrical Gremilins will start apprearing.

Sixth - Enjoy a cold drink of your favorite beverage as the OD Fever starts taking over

Seventh - Go buy some more MVs

 

[panama]

My '09 ran amazingly well when I got it although it looked like it had 25 years of dust and dirt caked on the interior. So I was lucky enough to dedicate a little time doing ALL of the above at my leisure! The Tranny pan leaked as well as both diffs. The diff oil was NASTY but all other fluids were good to go. Also agreed that a functional lighter and cup holders are a MUST. I still need a front end alignment and a brake upgrade...GOOD LUCK!

 

[combatmech]

Junk yard special center console. I paid 20 bucks for mine. It's really up to you. Like most have posted... Ensure that all is well with engine, drive train and electrical systems before serious mods....
I would also take a hard look at how much rust is on your truck. Best of luck!! We're here to help!!!

 

[Brett09]

increase my chances of having a reliable truck capable of several hundred mile trips? The doghead relay mod seems popular. Anything else?

I plan on checking/changing all fluids, belts and hoses... what else?

-If I personally was going to use it for several hundred mile trips I'd test injectors and rebuild the pump. Other then what you mentioned; replace joints, repack bearings, cleaning every connector don't forget the grounds, test all wiring connections with a jiggle and a tug, replace bulbs, replace lift pump, check brake lines, replace the small little rubber hose coming out of the trans on the passenger side. Its just over an inch or so. Don't forget the rubber under the truck and vacuum lines.

 

[Warthog]

So let me simplify this a bit.... What if you had just brought your new/used CUCV home and had somewhere around $500-700 to address know gremlins, divability issues, starting issues. How would you spend the money?

Start saving your money to have the injector pump rebuilt. Cost is $250-$500 depending on who does it.

The seals are 25+ years old and a fresh rebuild will do wonders. Just ask BARRMAN and others.

And and the normal maintenance items like tires, spare starter, brakes, wheel bearings, batteries. It all adds up.

 

[SouthernSteel]

If its Rubber Replace it and if its Electrical clean it i cant stress that Enough i learned the hard way lol Most defintely The Doghead Relay Starter Conversion both my M1008s have it :] wouldnt dare drive em with out it Good luck my friend these trucks rock

Speaking of that Those styndyne Injection Pumps for the M1009 and m1008s are built Right here in Jacksonville NC Home of Camp lejeune Marine Corps Base That all of u use :]

 

[jdeoliveira74]

southern do i need to do the dog head mod being that i am a 12v system?

 

[Matt65]

do i need to do the dog head mod being that i am a 12v system?

Yes.

 

[jdeoliveira74]

ok its on the list

 

[M1008driver]

I keep lots of tools in my M1008. They have come in handy several times and just this weekend on the side of the road. The spare tire carrier collapsed when the nut came off dragging everything under the truck. 15 minutes later and it was all laying in the truck bed. Lucky I didn't kill someone behind me.

 

[michigan4x4]

Thanks Guys. I appreciate all the useful info. I cant wait to go pick the M1009 up on Saturday. Hopefully it doesnt have too many Gremlins, and if it does, I am sure I can find answers here.

Warthog.... is that $250-$500 quote if I pull the pump myself and hand it to the guy to rebuild it or if I pull drive the truck over to them and have them pull it and rebuild it?

Who rebuilds the injector pumps anyway?

Thanks.
Jeff

 

[Warthog]

Thanks Guys. I appreciate all the useful info. I cant wait to go pick the M1009 up on Saturday. Hopefully it doesnt have too many Gremlins, and if it does, I am sure I can find answers here.

Warthog.... is that $250-$500 quote if I pull the pump myself and hand it to the guy to rebuild it or if I pull drive the truck over to them and have them pull it and rebuild it?

Who rebuilds the injector pumps anyway?

Thanks.
Jeff

The price is for a carry in unit. Look for a Stanadyne shop in your area.

There is a guy on Fleabay that will do it for under $300, but shipping adds to the price. Several members have used him with good results. Only issue is that if something is wrong, it requires the unit to be reshipped.

A local shop can provide local service/support

 

[michigan4x4]

The price is for a carry in unit. Look for a Stanadyne shop in your area.

There is a guy on Fleabay that will do it for under $300, but shipping adds to the price. Several members have used him with good results. Only issue is that if something is wrong, it requires the unit to be reshipped.

A local shop can provide local service/support

10-4... Thanks!

 

[Matt65]

Based on my 7 glow plugs that burned out, I would add bypassing the 24 to 12v resistor. Apply pure 12v in place of the hybrid circuit to the glow plug relay with 60g plugs.