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CUCV Radiator Replacement

Tinstar

Tinstar

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The copper/brass radiator is still made today and is a direct replacement and exact fit as the original.
It’s not a close fit……it’s an exact fit.
Zero trouble attaching the cooler lines.

I posted a thread with pics and part numbers when I installed mine.

Installed new Copper/Brass Radiator in M1008A1

Thought I would start a new thread on this since a lot of guys are always looking for a good replacement copper/brass radiator. Old one went out a while ago and wasn't able to be fixed Ordered this new one and it arrived today at the radiator shop I use. Large 3 core and EXACTLY like the old...
www.steelsoldiers.com

Still working like a champ.

I also installed new rubber isolation mounts.
Crazy not to.
 
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Rennat_2006

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Just went through this about a month ago with my m1009. I called EVERY WHERE and could only find 3 places with access to them, #1 ebay but could not confirm if it had oil cooler and transmission cooler and was very leery on the quality of it. I was expecting it to show up looking like Ray Charles welded it with his feet. #2 napa for $1400(my cost with my business account) with only 1 in existence in Jacksonville. #3 Autozone part #b850 for $405(also under my business account) and was only a few days out.

Went with the b850 from autozone and was surprised when it showed up 100% aluminum. Like mentioned earlier you will need some new isolators or something similar for the top mounts, i used some semi mud flap pieces cut and glued onto the tank to fill the gap. You will also need some adapters to space the low coolant sensor out of the tank, dont make the same stupid mistake i did and drill through the oil cooler.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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You don't really need a 4 core. A 3 core will do fine. And my experience has been that the plastic / aluminum cool better. That's my opinion and years of use. maybe I was just born lucky. I don't try and analyze everything on a truck by where it is made at and what is the best.

At this point many OEM parts are NOT available. If you want to keep the old trucks and equipment you need to keep shoveling the cash into them. The best is re-core with a 4 core. That will set you back $500- $800. depending on where you go. I never had any issues with a securely mounted after market radiator. I say securely mounted because I see the ones that are setting on the steel rusty radiator supports and the oil cooler lines are just swinging in the breeze with no supports on them.

These same guys will say my junk Autozone radiator failed in 2 years. I see this stuff all the time on many makes and models of vehicles. Same as batteries and anything else it needs to be properly secured and correctly installed to get maximum service life from the part being replaced. Spend the extra cash and get new isolators and make the radiator fit tight in the mounts. Loose is not good. Wire ties are not an option for good workmanship on parts installed. Have a Great Day and Be Safe. Do it right the first time and drive on.
 
flyfishtrailer

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Rennat_2006

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Ouch thats pretty crazy price at advance.

Like CUCVRUS posted i would put that $800 into getting the OEM one recored and whatever over paying that much for a plastic tanked replacement. I was quoted $600 to have my OEM one redone.
 
Tinstar

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ssdvc

ssdvc

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flyfishtrailer said:
Looking for another shop that can do the re-core process....Not done trying anyway. In the meantime, I did find this one. It seems to be the right one other than 3 core instead of 4 and is a little narrower. I am just leery of the possible quality based on this huge price difference from everything else I am finding that will work ($750-1600....and believe it or not, Napa had the $1600 one which was not even brass/copper). I may pull the trigger for a temporary fix until I can get mine re-cored. If I go that route, photos and a write up will follow.

3 Row Aluminum Radiator For 82-91 CHEVY GMC TRUCK PICKUP BLAZER 6.2L V8 DIESEL (alloyworksplus.com)
Click to expand...
Just wondering if anyone ordered this radiator and if it was any good and worked as advertised?
 
ssdvc

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cucvrus said:
SSDVC do you need another radiator?
Click to expand...
Hi Rick. Yeah, it looks like my radiator is not long for this world. I have seen drips now and then for the last year or two, but I dismissed them, for no particular reason. This week I started noticing a little puddle on the garage floor. I cleaned it up, but it kept coming back and would have another little puddle. I also noticed my overflow tank was running a little on the low side the other day. All connections are dry and it looks like it is coming from the bottom passenger side of the center section. When it rains, it pours !
 
Keith_J

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Lead based solder is why it is expensive. In the old days, radiators were repaired by desoldering with a torch and air nozzle, resulting in a major mess, physically and environmentally. Now they must use a wicking braid or HEPA vacuum. Parts are not cheap either. Then labor costs.

But, if you want to, I suppose a ash vacuum could be used to desolder. Remember, tube to tubesheet joints are also soldered so when you are installing the tanks, you could desolder those joints. One trick is to submerge the core up to the tubesheet in water while soldering the tank to tubesheet. A shop vacuum set up to blow air through the coolant side also works. 15 PSI air test, tubesheet to tank leaks are best fixed with a large iron, then water mist to rapid cool. Any tube to tubesheet leak must be done with tanks removed.

Everything must be cleaned with all solder joints shiny before assembly .

I have repaired tube leaks with soldering in place. Only an emergency fix.

Solder is getting expensive too, no lead mines in the USA plus tin prices are up. The tin-lead system has various compositions, from 50/50 to 60/40 and eutectic 63/37 Sn/Pb. The first is used for large gap filling as it has a range of melting temperature. Use this for tube to tubesheet. 60/40 is for tight gaps as it is narrow and lower melting point. This is for tubesheet to tank. Eutectic means single and lowest melting point. This is for final repair.

Again, the joints must be clean and bright. You don't need acid flux with clean joints. Rosin or tallow is the only flux needed here and cleans up without corrosion. The acid type fluxes are zinc and ammonium chloride types. ZnCl should only be used on steel items.
 
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rmesgt

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The radiator I bought for my M1009 was from Autozone, Part # B850. I paid $349.99 (tax exempt). It was an exact fit.

AZ Receipt.jpg

I also purchased the upper and lower rubber mounts from https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com. I ordered part # 71712. They cost $18.00 and had a $7.00 shipping fee. The parts I got were not rubber but rather neoprene. I don't know if they are better, worse, or just the same, but they fit well and have worked just fine.
 
ssdvc

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Thanks Sarge, but the cost of that radiator was up to $550, but it is also no longer available.
 
ssdvc

ssdvc

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I am heading up to a radiator shop in a few days for an estimate. It really looks like my only alternative.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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And I doubt it needs re-cored. I suspect it can be repaired. Radiator shops are far and few between. I have one locally and it is 3rd generation and the man that runs it now is my age. When he retires, I doubt that trade will be picked up by anyone else. Some trades are just fading away.
 
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