CUCV Starter problems

[huggy]

I have even worked on these on the Rock Island Arsenal Military base with Guys from the "BEE HYVE" that is the mech. Shop where they rebuild military motors n injector pumps and also at the National guards mech. Shop I. Davenport Ia when they were still open. With military mechanics n they didn't know what to do with them junk things... But, they all seen and realized that the 28MT GEAR REDUCTIONS WORKED AND WITH HOW THEY WORK INTERNALLY, not being a DIRRECT DRIVE they engage differently n that seems to make all the difference in How or why they don't come out so fast, the BENDIX on the starter n rip teeth off the flex plate....
So, take it or leave it n plan on headaches with the 27MT's if ya so choose to go that way. But, I don't have the time to play games with a starter install that your not supposed to have to be a ROCKE SCIENTIST to install Good luck with it

 

[Warthog]

..... but get frustrated with misinformation.

Welcome to the world of the Internet. Just because something works for one person it does not mean it will work for others.

There are many other websites dedicated to the 6.2L/6.5L. They face the same issues we deal with here. Starters being one of them.

The way I Understand it the Gear Reduction starters came from Japan. The quality was great. China copied them and the quality went down.

 

[huggy]

I don't know about who is making them now, but all I know is that they work... N have life time warrenty n changing a starter is less a pain than changing a flex plate, and especially changing the flex plate multiple times cuz them crapy 27MT's continually tore up the flex plates.
I even took 27 MT starters off the same exact trucks they came Off from n rebuilt them and put the right back on the same truck n they still tore up the teeth on the flex plate. N that was not the original problem that we had to rebuilfd the dang things
Shoot buddy I have prolly 8 24 VINT rebuilt n bench tested 27MT starters that tested all good but still chewed up the flex plates. I l

 

[huggy]

I loved how hard they spin but it's crazy how picky them starters are

 

[cucvrus]

Give me the old direct drive starters any day. And I always say this. There is more to rebuilding a starter then putting new parts in it. I let that job to a professional re-builder. It is worth the expense to have it done and done right the first time. Nothing against 28 MT starters I have a few on trucks also. But nothing wrong with the OEM starters in my fleet. I tend to change the starters before they go out. If I hear a sight odd sound from the starter that seems different I may wait a bit and keep an eye and ear on it. If I suspect issues I change the starter out. i had the jersey Indian here and it had strange sounds coming from the starter. I changed it and the truck sounded normal when starting after that. Happy New Year.

 

[TedO]

It sounds like there isn't enough clearance between the starter gear and the flywheel you might need to shim it. Just a thought

How do you adjust the clearance with a "shimless" starter?

I got a starter from Ebay, and I had a heck of a time installing it. It just didnt seem to fit correctly. After I got it on after hours of work fiddling with it, I notice a grind sound that lasts for a second when I first start it up, and there is a small drip of oil that wast there before. Now I am going to go back to the old starter, which I am having rebuilt. I know that one fits. I suspect these "shimless" starters may actually need to have some metal removed to make them fit properly.

I suspect that grinding sound is wearing down the flywheel. Just curious, how easy is it to replace the flywheel?

 

[cpf240]

How do you adjust the clearance with a "shimless" starter?...

By adding a shim... If the starters are made from rebuilt cores, there is a good chance the mating surface was machined. Or that they are a bit out of spec. Even if it was a new "shim-less" starter, I'd still want to check for proper engagement clearance between the bendix gear and the flex plate ring gear.

 

[TedO]

I have a lot of problems with the starter sticking. It is quite embarrassing after showing admirers mytruck, then having to crawl underneath with a hammer to get it started. I put on a new starter, and it still occasionally sticks. I found it especially sticks in hot weather. What I noticed is that there is supposed to be a heat shield installed on the frame just above the starter. Mine is missing, and I cannot find a replacement. I suspect the starter gets too hot, then the viscosity of the lubricant decreases, leading to stuck starter. I am gluing a heat shield to the freshly rebuilt starter to see if that fixes it.

 

[Hasdrubal]

To Mr "them crapy Mt27's". Perhaps you guys weren't very good mechanics? If they continuously tore up the flex plates, there is an underlying problem you are not understanding. They early starters had a nose cone that required shimming, the later ones have a nose cone that has "no shim" on the casting. If the nose cone had the mating surface machined this obviously changes the equation. Good bearings and a proper bendix/flywheel spacing are all that's involved here. It's sad, you guys kept endlessly grinding and then changing flexplates and couldn't diagnose the issue at hand. It's high school mechanics level, not particle physics.


The 27MT is a heavy-duty part. The reason GM went to the gear reduction was cost savings and that's it. Not because they were better. Heavy copper wound starters cost Bucks.

 

[bimota]

None of us took auto mechanic in high school - we went to college instead. The point is we are hobbyists - not pros. The documentation and this forum has failed to prevent dozens if not hundreds of damaged trucks - many I can imagine scrapped because someone did not have specific instructions on starter choice and install.

I'm asking the SteelSoldiers Moderation teams/people/the wizard behind the curtain to get a small group to consolidate and publish a complete and specific set of guidelines to prevent further damage to trucks we all enjoy.

To Mr "them crapy Mt27's". Perhaps you guys weren't very good mechanics? If they continuously tore up the flex plates, there is an underlying problem you are not understanding. They early starters had a nose cone that required shimming, the later ones have a nose cone that has "no shim" on the casting. If the nose cone had the mating surface machined this obviously changes the equation. Good bearings and a proper bendix/flywheel spacing are all that's involved here. It's sad, you guys kept endlessly grinding and then changing flexplates and couldn't diagnose the issue at hand. It's high school mechanics level, not particle physics.


The 27MT is a heavy-duty part. The reason GM went to the gear reduction was cost savings and that's it. Not because they were better. Heavy copper wound starters cost Bucks.

 

[huggy]

Yeahhhh, I know all about the nose cones! Whatever man, just trying to stop a guy from going through all the time consuming crap of changing them Sta tees n having to change flex Plates. Them other 28MTS ARE ALWAYS GOID TO ME SND I HAVE NEVER HAD ONE NOT WORK