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CUCV Starter relay part number

n3uka

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Beltsville, MD
Looking on the mil-veh list the other day there was a conversation about starter relays going bad and causing damage to the starter, etc.

Does anyone know the part number? I am planning on replacing it on my M1009 before it can bite me in the ...

Thanks
 

harmon

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Does anybody know if the Dog Head starter relay mod with NAPA part # 7-01860-1 is the same part as CUCV Electric sells as a new inventortory item referred to as a Universal Starter relay? They look the same from the picture but cucv sells it for $9.97 and NAPA is $15.00. I also need to order other parts for CUCV electric that would be included in shipping. Any help would be great> Also I saw a thread and can't find it about installing a diode with modification but can't find it. (by the way the stock relay part # 15591718 is a discontinued part number but may carry it online such as cucv electric.
 

CycleJay

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N3uka,
Do NOT replace that relay, even a new one will bite you in the a$$..
Trust me. I speak from experience. I replaced that same relay with a new one,
and the new one caused the same problem, and burned my starter.


Do the "Doghead starter relay modification", instead. If you do it, you will never have the same problem again.
I did that mod after the damage from the last starter that burned was repaired, and have NEVER regretted doing it.
After I did it, my M1009 NEVER had that problem again, So I am happy and no complaints. It is a MUST DO mod.

Do it as soon as possible... before you do any more starting of your truck.
Read the instructions to do it here, and follow them to the letter, and get the part # mentioned in Dogheads instructions.
I did, and his mod works great. Now my truck starts reliably every time.

Good luck, good day...

CJ
 

Hasdrubal

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CUCV electric sells a newer Starter relay ; # 4952 Replaces GM 15591718. Ordered one as a spare.

I've had my M1009 for 8 years, 90,000 + miles, literally thousands of starts, in process of re-building my starter again. Still running the stock starter relay. I asked two guys up here who have CUCV fleets. They never changed them or had an issue, so I decided to forgo the frequently mentioned "doghead mod". Everyone screams this is a must do mod. The experiences of us Canadian owners has not borne this out.

Maybe its because mine is an 86 ;
TM9-2320-289-20 42.1. STARTER STAYS ENGAGED
NOTE; Original starter relays on vehicles prior to July 1985 production were defective. The point gap inside was too small causing starter to stay engaged. Vehicles produced after July 1985 and the current starter relay in supply system have a wider point gap to correct this problem.
 

RuzzP

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Well since this got necro'd anyways, does anyone know the part Canadian NAPA part number for the 200 amp relay used in the Doghead mod? Also looking for the part number for the ST-85 glowplug relay. I Gave them the part numbers and he said they cime up as solenoids :s
 

RuzzP

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Theres a difference between a solenoid and a relay... ive gotta go in and take a look, Wouldnt be the first time a unintelligent employee sent me in the wrong direction.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Theres a difference between a solenoid and a relay...

Well, yes and no. It's a matter of usage.

A solenoid is anything that uses an electromagnet to do something. That something might be moving a valve or moving an electrical switch or just about anything else.

A relay is a solenoid that actuates an electrical switch. When we put such a device on a starter to control the current from the battery, in the automotive world we call it a solenoid, and that's correct. It's also correct to call it a relay.

Functionally, the solenoid on the starter is exactly the same as what we call the starter relay, which is exactly the same as the headlight relay, which is exactly the same as the horn relay. They may look different, and they may have different numbers of connectors, but functionally they are identical.

So, don't get hung up on the terminology. Look at what the device DOES, how much current and voltage it can handle, and how it connects.
 

admiralking

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I just bought a M1009 CUCV from govliquidation.com. When it wouldn't start I checked the relay under the dash. Not only do I need to do the modification but the four wires had a meltdown and fused together. I am in the process of separating and repairing wires. Is the red wire supposed to supply 24 volts? I have the wiring diagrams and I've searched the forums (which are terrific) but I can't determine if the relay is supposed to deliver 12 or 24 volts to the starter solenoid a via the purple wire.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356240454.773603.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1356240481.613512.jpg

This is a duplicate post from another similar thread that wasn't as recent. Please excuse the redundancy but I'm hoping to start my truck this weekend and need an answer.
 

Warthog

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In a stock system, the large red wire is hot with 24v at all times. When the relay is engaged it supplies 24v to the starter solenoid on the starter via the large purple wire.

You need to look at the wiring diagram E-1 or F-1 from the TM 9-2320-289-34 or TM 9-2320-289-20 tech manuals. Make sure you read the first few pages of the Troubleshooting section of the manuals to see how to read the diagrams.
 

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MarcusOReallyus

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That's what's known as, "Some rookie engineer spec'd that relay WAY too small for the job!"


Either that, or a supplier was sending a message to GM that they no longer wanted to be a supplier.


Did you get it running?
 

admiralking

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356826323.667874.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1356826366.313187.jpg
Well I got the electrical work done today. I put shrink wrap over the wires where the insulation had burned, wired up the Doghead relay, and replaced the burned up fusible link.

I connected the batteries and tried to start her up. The starter can be heard spinning but it doesn't engage the flywheel. I turned the crank with a socket wrench in case the flywheel had a bare spot. That wasn't it.

I guess it's time to move on to the starter solenoid.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Good progress! :beer:

Well I got the electrical work done today. I put shrink wrap over the wires where the insulation had burned,

This part worries me a bit. If the insulation burned because of the heat of the wires, then the wires themselves are compromised. It would be a good idea to replace the fried sections. You can do it now, or do it later when they fail you, which they probably will.
 

admiralking

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356916908.985518.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1356916968.767674.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1356917001.934683.jpg
I pulled the starter today and, sure enough, the solenoid is shot. The plunger is seized up and won't actuate the shift lever to move the pinion into place. The solenoid is different than the one pictured in the tech manual. I ordered a new one on eBay:
 
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Warthog

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The solenoid is different than the one pictured in the tech manual. I ordered a new one on eBay:
The Tech Manuals where written before the Gear Reduction starters where issued.

The one in TM is the for the 27MT direct drive.

The Gear Reduction starter is the 28MT version.
 
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