Cucv Wiki

[CCATLETT1984]

[h=2]Technical Manuals[/h]
LO 9-2320-289-12 is the Lubrication Order
TM 9-2320-289-10 is the Operator's Manual
TM 9-2320-289-20 is the Unit Maintenance Manual
TM 9-2320-289-20P is the Unit Parts Manual
TM 9-2320-289-34 is the Intermediate Maintenance Manual
TM 9-2320-289-34P is the Intermediate Parts Manual
TM 9-2815-237-34 is the Direct Support Manual for the 6.2L and 6.5L Diesels

Wiring Diagrams are located in Appendix F of the -20 and Appendix E of the -34

****** The TM links have been fixed, but you can still get the manuals at www.jatonkasm35s.com ********

PLEASE READ the first few pages of the Troubleshooting Section for an explaination of how to read the wiring diagrams

NOTES:
Your first best place to go for information is always to the technical manuals that are available for free download as searchable/printable .pdf files. There is a wealth of information and it is written for the common military man.


First read the Operator’s Manual. This will answer most of the newbie questions that arise on this forum. Then read the Lube Order. This will give you answers to the most common questions about fluids and capacities. Then read the Unit Maintenance Manual. This will give step by step instructions for basic troubleshooting and repairs. If you can’t find what you’re looking for in any of those, then read the Intermediate Maintenance Manual.


The parts manuals will give you schematics followed by a listing of part numbers. You can cross-reference these in the index at the end to find the NSN. Then you can google the NSN and usually find more information.


An additional useful outside resource is http://www.tpub.com Sometimes the TMs will refer to other obscure bulletins and publications. These can often (not always) be found at tpub.com. tpub.com also has information on most NSN’s, including who the original manufacturer/supplier was for the item. This may aid you in tracking down obscure parts.

[h=2]FAQ[/h]
1. What glowplugs for a manual conversion, no controller card or anything except a switch, a relay, and the plugs? AC60's or Wellman 070's?
If your truck is stock then get the Wellman plugs, if its been converted to 12volt get the AC's.

2. What size freeze plug heater?
41mm

3. Where to find a fuel fired block heater?
http://www.ig4x4.com/item27.htm
http://www.arctic-fox.com/sitepages/pid13.php
http://www.webastoshowroom.com/blueheat/

[h=2]Specifications[/h]
Fuel System

• Diesel, of course. #2 Diesel does not have the same lubricity properties as older varieties. Many users recommend a diesel additive. Most commonly used/available is Diesel Kleen/Power Service or Howe’s. Use with discretion/at your leisure/at your own risk.
• Fuel filter is NAPA# FIL3136; FRAM#P3940A
• An alternative spin-on filter is available and requires a base and some minor changes. There are numerous threads that cover this topic if you choose to go this route.

Oil

• Oil is 15W40 for diesel. (HD 30W works very well in hot ares) Rotella is available in gallon jugs, and quarts at just about any convenience store or truck stop. Engine capacity is 7 quarts.
• Oil filter is Stock Filter is AC PF-35; FRAM# PH5; WIX 51061; NAPA# FIL1061; K&N# HP-3002;BOSCH# 3510
• Oil and filter change recommended every 3 months/3,000 miles

Coolant

• Engine coolant is any standard ethylene glycol. The Lube Order indicates a 50/50 coolant/water mix for normal use; or 65/35 if temps are -10F or colder.
• System capacity is listed as 25 qts.
• Drain, flush and fill every 2 years, or 24,000 miles
• Hockey Puck Thermostat - NAPA 381-190, Autozone 42995, Orielly 42995

Transmission (TH400, 3-Speed)

• Transmission fluid was indicated as Dexron II. This has been replaced with Dexron III.
• Transmission filter is NAPA# ATP14558 (or 19701 w/gasket); FRAM# FT1020A (w/gasket)
• It only takes 1 pt. to raise the level (hot) from “add” to “full”.
• Capacity is listed as 4 qts., but this may vary. Fill as needed to reach level. 9 qts. when changing filter and cooler lines.
• Drain/Fill and replace filter every 2 years. Do more frequently if regularly using off-road or for towing

Transfer Case (205 & 20

• Fluid is Dexron III
• Capacity is listed as 5 qts.
• Level should be approx. 1/4” below edge of filler plug hole
• Drain and fill every 2 years/24,000 miles, or annually if under heavy use

Front/Rear Differential

• Fluid is standard GO (Gear Oil, 90/75)
• Front capacity is 4.5 pts.
• Rear capacity is 5.4 pts.
• Only the M1028 is listed as requiring additive. Additive is GM.

Brake Fluid

• Fluid is DOT5 silicone only. CAUTION: Some of these vehicles may have been filled with DOT3. There are numerous arguments for using either kind. However, do NOT mix them.
• Level should be ¼” below lowest edge of each filler opening in master cylinder
• Check monthly

Power Steering

• Fluid is standard power-steering fluid.

Air Cleaner/Filter

• Any standard filter designated for use in a K5/K30 should work. FRAM# CA3492 (or PRA3492); NAPA# FIL2096 (or 6096); K&N# E-1690 (expensive, but worth it!)

Glow Plugs

• Wellman 070 (about $10 ea.- search ebay or google it)
• GP Relay is NAPA# ST85, Advance Auto #S603 (AA is much cheaper)
• For 12V CONVERSION, Wellman 050 or AC 60G glowplugs
• Control Card/Controller/Modulator is available from flmv.net

Rear Main Seal (2-piece neoprene)

• NAPA# FPGBS40529

Tires

• For the M1009 the stock tires are Goodyear Wrangler ATs 31x10.50-15
• All other trucks use the stock size of 235/85R16E per the TM 9-2320-289-20p parts manual.

Belts ( all but M1010 )

• Driver side alt- Gates# 25-7575; Dayco# 15580
• Passenger side alt- Gates# 7483; Dayco# 15490
• Power Steering- Gates# 7448; Dayco#15455

When installing Gatorbacks, I (LavaRok) choose the following three belts:

• Driver side alt - 15585 ( 58 )
• Power steering - 15461 ( 45.5 )
• Passenger side alt - 15491 ( 48.5 )

However, the P side alt was tight. I'd try the 15495 ( 49 ) next time.


Batteries

• Group 31 or 6TLs
• Really any 800+ cca batteries will do

Starter relay

• AC40 (stock) - For a more dependable starting system, update your starter system with the Doghead Relay upgrade. This replaces the subpar relay with a heavy duty relay. It will save your starter from burning up. NAPA# SME 7018601.

Injector Pump

• The IP is a Stanadyne Roosa Master DB2
• The estimated life is 100,000 miles. However, keep in mind that these vehicles are 20+ years old. The seals are almost certainly shot, or about to go.
• If you are leaking fuel from the bell-housing cover, it is likely drain off from the IP through a hole in the rear of the engine compartment
• The first seals to go are typically the o-rings on the throttle shaft. You may notice a dripping from the L-shaped arm attached to the spring on the driver side of the IP. Seals are only a couple bucks, but replacement is a 4-hour job at minimum, requiring the removal of the air-intake manifold, CDR valve, loosening the vacuum pump, and possibly removing the fuel injector lines and removing the IP.
• Rebuilt pumps are usually in the $3-500 range (plus $300 core charge if you don’t give them your old IP core). Take-off pumps can be had for around $100, but will eventually encounter the same problems. Getting your IP rebuilt is probably the best thing you can do for the longevity of your vehicle.

Lights/Blackout Lights

• The right toggle switch moves power to the service lights, horn, dash, etc. or to the blackout lights. Pull it out and flip it up or down.
• The left switch turns on the blackout drive light. Flip it up or down; it will return to center position.
• If your lights suddenly don’t work, check the toggle switch.
• Then check the fuses.
• If it’s neither of the above, you’ll probably have to trace circuits to track down a short somewhere.

[h=2]Models[/h]

[h=3]M1008[/h]
The M1008 is a 1984 K30 pickup with a J code 6.2L diesel, TH400 3 speed automatic, and a NP208 transfer case.

The M1008 has a Dana 60 front axle open and Corporate 14 bolt rear axle with 4.56 gears, detroit locker.

[h=3]M1031[/h]
The M1031 is a 1984 K30 chassis cab pickup with a J code 6.2L diesel, TH400 3 speed automatic, and an NP205 transfer case. The NP205 transfer case is used because it has provisions for a PTO to be installed on the vehicle to power various auxiliary bodies that might be installed.

The M1031 has a Dana 60 front axle and Corporate 14 bolt rear axle with 4.56 gears, a detroit locker in the rear and a limited slip in the front.

Most M1031s are Contact Maintenance Trucks with an aluminum box containing a PTO driven 10KW generator, air compressor and welder. The generator installation has a governor installed on the engine to maintain 1800 RPM to get 60Hz power regardless of load.

Some M1031s had a bed installed and were redesignated M1028A1s

[h=3]M1028[/h]
The M1028 is a 1984 K30 pickup with a J code 6.2L diesel, TH400 3 speed automatic, and an NP208 transfer case. It is primarily used as a shelter carrier and therefore has heavier rear suspension and mounts for a communications box to be installed in the bed.

The M1028 has a Dana 60 front axle with limited slip and Corporate 14 bolt rear axle with 4.56 gears, Detroit locker.

The M1028A1 is a 1984 K30 pickup with a J code 6.2L diesel, TH400 3 speed automatic, and an NP205 transfer case. It is primarily used as a shelter carrier and therefore has heavier rear suspension and mounts for a communications box to be installed in the bed. They typically start life as an M1031 chassis cab and have the bed added.

The M1028A1 has a Dana 60 front axle and Corporate 14 bolt rear axle with 4.56 gears, with a limited slip front and Detroit locker in rear.

The M1028A2 is an M1028A1 with the addition of dual rear wheels and rear sway bar, all other specs are the same.

The M1028A3 is an M1028 with the addition of dual rear wheels and rear sway bar; all other specs are the same.

[h=3]M1010[/h]
The M1010 is a 1984 K30 chassis cab with a J code 6.2L diesel, TH400 3 speed automatic, and a NP208 transfer case. It is fitted with an ambulance body and a special 200 amp charging system. The rear of the cab is cut to allow passage between the truck cab and ambulance body. The M1010 is also used as a mobile command post and small shop in some units.

The M1010 has a Dana 60 front axle and Corporate 14 bolt rear axle with 4.56 gears, detroit locker.

The M1010 has a special charging system and air conditioning compressor installed to supply the ambulance body with cold air.

The M1010 charging system uses two Leese Neville 100 amp alternators running to an external voltage regulator (the 'blue box') and is prone to having problems maintaining the 12 volt system's charge. Some units removed the system and replaced it with a standard CUCV charging system, with varying degrees of success.

[h=3]M1009[/h]
The M1009 is a 1984 K5 Blazer with a 1 Ton J code 6.2L instead of the normal C code 6.2L diesel and a TH400 3 speed automatic instead of the TH700R4. These modifications were done at the miiltary's request to make all engine/transmission components the same between the 1008 and 1009 trucks.

****The front springs are 3 inch wide 56 inch long and the rear springs are 2 1/2 inch wide 52 inch long. . *****

The M1009 has Corporate 10 bolt axles front and rear with 3.08 gear ratio and a Gov-Lok in the rear. The front axle is open.


[h=2]Troubleshooting Information[/h]
Note: Do not convert your CUCV to 12V else you will be totally on your own as no one will be able to help you! The 24V system works perfectly as is and is easy enough to work on as long as you follow the TM's!!!

[h=3]Glow Plugs[/h]

Tools Required

• Multi-Meter / test-light
• Glow Plug Socket
• 3' piece of wire, with ends stripped

1. Remove a wire from a glow plug. Have a helper turn on the key, and check for voltage between the glow plug wire and ground.
   • If voltage present, use a test light and hook the end to the tip of the glow plug while its still in the engine. With the other end of the test light, touch positive. If test light lights up the glow plug is good. Do this for each 8 glow plugs.
   • If no voltage continue
2. Locate Glow Plug Relay on firewall to the left of the master Cylinder.
   1. check for voltage on the Left large terminal.
      • If voltage present, have helper turn on key, do you hear a clunk from the relay?
        • If no, take your piece of wire, hold one end on a good ground, and touch the other end to the small terminal with the BLUE wire.
          • If you still dont hear the relay clunk, replace it.
          • If you do hear the clunk, your controller card is bad. Replace it, or install the 'manual glow plug' setup.
      • If voltage not present, check for voltage on the left side of the resistor bank (behind air cleaner on firewall)
        • If no voltage, check wire feeding resistors to ensure it is properly connected to the TOP busbar on the firewall
        • If voltage present, verify wire between resistor and relay. if wire is good, replace resistor, or do the 12v resistor bypass. Always do the resistor bypass to get 12 volts to the 12 volt glow plugs, otherwise you have 13 plus volts or more such as when one of your glow plugs fail or a connector at the glow plug is loose!

[h=3]Charging System[/h]
Dual 100 amp alternators. Batteries are wired in series to make the 24V. Very strong charging system that will handle any load you can toss at it. Changing over to 12V is NOT recommended.

The passenger side alternator MUST HAVE an isolated ground. The driver side does not. An Autozone part number for the DRIVER side alternator is DL7157 (also found in a 1975 Cady with a V8 engine). This alternator is 78 amps and works just fine. You MUST have an Isolated Ground Alternator for the passenger side. Ebay, www.saturnsurplus.com, and many other places stock this alternator.

NAPA has a remanufactured Isolated Ground Alternator, part number WIL 90014277. Wilson Alternator rebuilds them. Cost ~$220. Just make sure you test the alternator before you install it. They have had some issues with the rebuilds of NOT being isolated grounds.

27si Type 100 Series


[h=3]Starter[/h]
24V but can be changed to 12V.

To convert to 12v, move the wire that goes to the starter (big red one) off the junction block on the fire wall and moved to the + side of the first battery. This should be done only if a 24V replacement can not be found. With the 24V you have the power of both batteries, with the 12V only the first battery. Also, you need to remove the under dash starter relay and connect the Purple W/White tracer wire to the purple wire.

[h=3]Headlight Blackout System[/h]
12V sealed lights. On some you may be able to replace the black out drive light in the grill but all the bumper lights are sealed.

[h=2]Repair Guide[/h]

[h=3]Rear main seal replacement without removing engine[/h]
Autozone rear main ~ $22
Autozone oil pan seals ~ $12

Here are the steps I took:

1. Jack up front end frame, to raise frame slightly off axle. Even an inch will help.
2. Drain oil, remove filter.
3. Unplug batteries
4. Remove starter
5. Remove bottom access for bell housing, tricky since tranny cooling lines have to be pushed over a bit, no need to remove the lines though
6. Pull oil pan, may need to loosen a line for the front axle breather from frame rail, tends to block access to front bolts on oil pan. Use a screwdriver to gently pry the pan loose from the engine block if it sticks; which it should if RTV was used.
7. Remove oil pump/pickup
8. Remove rear main bearing cap
9. Remove old seal
10. Install new seal, carefully. I had a helper and with 4 hands we were able to hold it in place while applying pressure to push it in the grove. Take note of placement, mine was labeled which side points out. TM shows a shim which can be made to assist in seal install. I'd be wary though as you don't want to damage the seal.
11. Following the TM, use anaerobic sealing compound on the rear main cap as specified, install rear main cap and torque to spec.
12. Reinstall oil pump/pickup
13. Clean old gasket from oil pan and engine block. RTV oil pan gasket to oil pan, let sit for 10 minutes, RTV top of gasket, let sit a few minutes; then reinstall oil pan while trying not to get RTV places it should not be.
14. Reinstall bell housing access cover and air breather line for front axle if removed.
15. Reinstall starter
16. Install oil filter
17. Fill oil, check level, etc.
18. Reconnect batteries
19. Start it up, recheck oil level after idling for a few minutes and verifying no leaks.

That is about it! If anyone sees a step I missed, please edit this. As long as you have another vehicle to drive in case the job takes longer than you hoped; you'll be fine to try it yourself. It took me two days, maybe 7hrs total. First day, I setup doing steps 1-5. Once you pull the oil pan, you will want to finish through step 13.

 

[SDF Troop]

I have made my first move into the MV world with the recent purchase of an M1009. I checked it out before buying from GL here in Huntsville. It was used by the Alabama NG (128th MP Co). It appears to be in pretty good shape all things considered. It has a gray dash board which I've been told is a replacement. The seats are in pretty good shape with only a small hole in the drivers seat. The tires look to be almost new. It starts and drives pretty good. I'm waiting on the SF-97. When I went to pick it up there wasa fellow there from Denver who said that his company had bought 15 of them and he was picking them up. Most of them started and only a few needed jump starts to get going. I plan on re-painting mine as the black seems to have faded quite a bit. I want to try to get it back to looking like an operational vehicle. Can anyone help with deciphering the tactical markings and what would be appropriate? I would also like to get antenas and correct looking radio gear for it. I seem to remember using the RT-524 sets before SINGARS was used.

 

[jeffwho@verizon.net]

Can anyone advise me on how to post a new thread?I have a new fuel/lift pump i need help with.Can't seem to get it to prime.THANKS

 

[HardCorps79]

On the Steel Soldiers home page, click on the tab for "forum" (grey links across the header).
On the forum page, scroll down to the section for "Post Viet-Nam to Desert Storm Vehicles"
Click on the yellow link for the "CUCV" forum.
On the CUCV forum page, just below the yellow link for the "CUCV FAQ Article" you'll see a small rectangular link for "New Thread". Click it and you can enter your question.

Be sure you check out the CUCV Wiki and review the TMs (Cucv - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite). This may answer many of your questions.

Also do a search of the CUCV forum (grey link at top right of CUCV forum) or here:
Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite - Search Forums Someone may have already answered your question in another thread.

If you can't find an answer in the Wiki/TMs or using search, go ahead and post your thread using the instructions above. Be sure the title of your thread indicates the nature of your problem and not just, "Help, please!" or "Check this out!". e.g. "Fuel lift pump not priming"

 

[6364Chevyguy]

M1009 oil

Any feelings about using the Rotella T 5w/40 Synthetic oil in the 6.2J engine?

 

[moralb2000]

Hi guys
I'd like to ask some help from experts on Chevy CUCV M1008, because I'm not good on electrical system:
I've bought the truck here in Italy. it's perfect and it runs well.
the only problem is that on dashboard there isn't the original voltmeter, but an amperometer (from Caterpillar maybe?) and it doesn't work. I have no way to get right answer from previous owner.
I suppose there's no trouble on electrical wiring (all lights and instruments operate correctly), but first I have to buy a new voltmeter, and I don't know if I need a 12v or a 24v instrument.
I don't know where to find the original one either.
I showed truck's electrical diagrams at car-repair electricians that I know, but I didn't have any clear answer, because we don't have in Italy any vehicle with electrical in 12v and 24v at same time.
I remember I read on steel-soldiers web-site that the expert Van (answer 823 on Military-Vehicle-Repair, 10/10/2003) said: everything on M1008 is 12v, except for starter and relay that operates starter; all the lights, gauges, etc, are stock Chevy 12v items.
so my question is:
is the voltmeter 12v also? is it stock Chevy part?

and other question:
for example, if I'd like to install (later maybe) an air compressor or a winch, do they have to be 12v or 24v?
many thanks

 

[moralb2000]

M1008 electrical system help

Hi guys
I'd like to ask some help from experts on Chevy CUCV M1008, because I'm not good on electrical system:
I've bought the truck here in Italy. it's perfect and it runs well.
the only problem is that on dashboard there isn't the original voltmeter, but an amperometer (from Caterpillar maybe?) and it doesn't work. I have no way to get right answer from previous owner.
I suppose there's no trouble on electrical wiring (all lights and instruments operate correctly), but first I have to buy a new voltmeter, and I don't know if I need a 12v or a 24v instrument.
I don't know where to find the original one either.
I showed truck's electrical diagrams at car-repair electricians that I know, but I didn't have any clear answer, because we don't have in Italy any vehicle with electrical in 12v and 24v at same time.
I remember I read on steel-soldiers web-site that the expert said: everything on M1008 is 12v, except for starter and relay that operates starter; all the lights, gauges, etc, are stock Chevy 12v items.
so my question is:
is the voltmeter 12v also? is it stock Chevy part?

and other question:
for example, if I'd like to install (later maybe) an air compressor or a winch, do they have to be 12v or 24v?
many thanks

 

[Mudstone]

dude... there are a billion posts, as well as places to get these parts that have all been discussed. Check the TM it gives you a part number.

These are available at places i have personally given you links to in the past.
odiron.com has them

check the resources tab as they tell you where to get mil spec parts.

ALSO there is the really really quick and easy way but here....Let me google that for you

 

[GOOSE101213]

I do beleive that you have the wrong person. You originally replied to "moralb2000" in reference to a voltmeter
issue. I am not he. I can understand your irritation, but also need to remind you that there is much to sift
thru when you are no longer on active duty, or are not a techno geek, or electronically inclined.
I am working with an active duty SFC in the inspections department at our local Armory, which just deployed
their troops and equipment and there are NO military schematics for a glow plug control card in his TM:
they just replace the whole darned thing, or had the base ET guy fix it.
If you can help me, I would GREATLY appreciate it, because mine is an interesting insurance dilema, and is in
need of a precise solution.
Goose

 

[Mudstone]

Goose... have no idea where you came from or what you need? i was responding to moral... aka the post above mine. your response is the first by you in this wiki discussion.

 

[WARWAG]

I tried to open the TMs but they are blank. Anyone else having this problem?

 

[akonitony]

Any feelings about using the Rotella T 5w/40 Synthetic oil in the 6.2J engine?

That is the only oil I use in all of my diesel engines. I also add a quart of Lucas Synthetic oil additive in my '06 Duramax since it sits a lot of the time.

 

[CUCV85]

Glow Plugs
​

• Wellman 070 for stock​
• Wellman 050 or AC 60G if 12 volt converted, DELETE AC 13G ​
• GP Relay is NAPA# ST85 or Advance Auto Parts #s603 ​
• much less cost​

 

[Capt.Marion]

Glow Plugs
​

• Wellman 070 for stock​
• Wellman 050 or AC 60G if 12 volt converted, DELETE AC 13G ​
• GP Relay is NAPA# ST85 or Advance Auto Parts #s603 ​
• much less cost​

Changes made, thanks for the input

 

[OL AG '89]

Not sure where the following info belongs, but I had a heck of a time locating gaskets for the front and rear differentials.
The correct FELPRO number is RDS 55075. It is the "paper" gasket, not the neoprene one.
NAPA, OReilly, Advance, Autozone had a difficult time understanding what I was looking for, Carquest sold me one and when I was ready to install it was incorrect.... not the FELPRO number but one of theirs.

 

[wired1000]

The TM lubrication order shows 5 quarts as the Transfer Case fill capacity and lists Dexron III as the proper fluid. This caused me quite a bit of confusion as I only got about 2.3 quarts into mine (an NP205). Here is the thread.

Transfer Case transmission fluid level issue

It seems to be the consensus that, depending on whether it's an NP205 or a NP208, 5 quarts is way more than will ever fit in one. Should we add a note to the T-case fill capacity mentioning this? I'm kinda new here, so I don't want to go editing the Wiki without getting some support from the more senior members.