CUCV wont start, got clicking sound then fuses blow-PLEASE HELP

[lizzy13]

found this in between the pos. and neg. boards on the firewall on battery side......

What is it and what is it for?????

 

[erniemigi]

that is according to the TMs is a capacitor, now as to what it is for i wouldn't be able to tell you but i am sure somebody on here who knows this electrical stuff will be able to

 

[lizzy13]

erniemigi,

thanks for posting ur pics......... no i dont have a push button start........

i guess i just dont understand how it can run fine one day and then nothing the next..........it was parked for 10 hours!!

 

[erniemigi]

ok i was just wondering what that yellow wire was running to in your 1st and fourth pic

 

[dependable]

The capacitor is probably for radio noise suppression. would not worry about it. One thing to double check, since you changed the starter, is the cable at starter end, there is a heat shield down there that gave me problems once, looked fine from what I could see, but had cut the insulation in the main starter cable. Did you check the batterys, a cell can fail over night and drop 2 volts. that will cause the clicking sound, could be either battery. It would be best to load test it (some auto parts stores will do this for you). That does not explain blown fuses. If the solenoid on the starter motor is the wrong voltage, that could mess you up too. that also happened to me once. Are you at 12 or 24v? do you have a volt meter?

 

[lizzy13]

both yellow wires in pics 1 & 4 have a 30 fuse in them (which blow everytime i try to start the truck as stated earlier n thread) and both run to a RED wires.........n tracking yellow wire w/fuse connected to the red in pic 1 the red leads to the back of the passager alternater and the yellow wire w/fuse connected to the red in pic 4 the red leads to the driver alternater (i think.....wires are enclosed in a protected sleeve)

 

[Warthog]

The blue wire is a leftover from the Civilian trucks - ignore it.

The link between the Positive Terminal and Negative Terminal Blocks is a diode/capacitor used for Military Radio Noise Supression - ignore it

Some one replaced the fusable links for the alternators with the 30amp fuses. The fusable links will need to be replaced but lets find the short befor you do that.

As a test, remove the two pin connectors from the back of the alternators so they won't activate and test the fuses again. One of the alternators may have shorted out.

 

[erniemigi]

that is good advice warthog, the originial wire size is a 3, which means you will need a 12 gage wire

 

[Warthog]

that is good advice warthog, the originial wire size is a 3, which means you will need a 12 gage wire

What he is refering to is the labeling of the wires. The wiring diagrams use numbers to represent the wire gauge. The first couple of pages of the Troubleshooting section of the TM 9-2320-289-20 and TM 9-2320-289-34 show you how to read the wiring diagrams and what the wire labels mean.


Make sure you visit the CUCV FAQ Article (CUCV Wiki) that is at the top of the page on the CUCV Forum. All of the CUCV Technical Manuals are listed and many other helpful bits of information. Download the manuals for reference. Also the wiring diagrams are in the appendix.

Also checkout the FAQ Thread for CUCV's stickey. It is where we try to post helpful tips and tricks.
Almost every question you will have has been asked and answered many times. The advanced search will become your best friend. Please don't hesitate to ask something that you can't find.

Read the TM 9-2320-289-10 Operators Manual to find out how a stock system should work. It is simular to the Operators Manual for Civilian vehicles. It tells you where all the lighs, switches, etc are located and what they do.

Warthog

 

[Crash_AF]

Oh, I just thought of something else... where did you get your starter from? If it was not from a military supplier, it is probably 12V and that is not going to work with the rest of the truck in stock form.

Later,
Joe

 

[lizzy13]

i spent all of Sunday (11-7-10) working on my CUCV........i have done almost everything everyone has suggested. I FOR SURE have a 24V starter and it is wired up right. i have read the TM's, i have been spending weeks reading threads and post here on SS. But when WARTHOG suggested in post #27 about removing pin conncectors from the alternators.........i freaked out!!! i am NOT a mechanic and have no clue what he is talking about.......

so, i had to stop myself from having a mental breakdown and take a step back!!!

myself and others have been working on my CUCV for weeks....... we have checked this and we have checked that.....two times, three times, even five times.............we are missing something easy i'm just sure of it!!!!

so, at 10am this morning (11-8-10) i decided i NEEDED to start over..........

"c. When troubleshooting a malfunction, (1) Ensure that both batteries are fully charged".

i took BOTH batteries OUT of my CUCV and took them to the local garage and had them tested......

do i need to tell you what they told me............you guessed it!!! one was completely DEAD!!!

NOW do i need to tell you how stupid i feel.........or should i tell you how many guys tested these batteries for me and said they were good...........

i truely LOVE all the male friends i have and THANK GOD everyday for having such good friends in my life. SO, a girl cant hate them for long...........or can she.... LMAO

so two (2) brand new batteries at NOON today and ten minutes later my CUCV is running!!!! SO, 7 1/2 weeks later i'm in heaven again!!!!

LOL...........i just have to laugh and smile!!!!

A MILLION THANKS TO EVERYONE who has replied to this thread of mine!!!! i have learned alot (tho still so much more to learn)!!!

i am so embarassed but so proud to share my story!!!

Thanks again everyone!!!!

 

[Warthog]

Glad you got it figured out!!!! Good Job!!!

Sometimes it is simplest things.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I'm still wondering why you were blowing fuses though? Glad you got it figured out. I've had many moments like that with my, pretty new to me, CUCV.

 

[Warthog]

I'm still wondering why you were blowing fuses though? Glad you got it figured out. I've had many moments like that with my, pretty new to me, CUCV.

The fuses that where blowing are not suppost to be there, a fusable link is.

If the battery was completely dead then there is a BIG overload on the system during starting.

The Tech Manuals tell you to wait 5-10 minutes after hooking up the slave cables to allow the battery to get a little charge if you are using the slave cables to start a vehicle.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Ah, I missed the missing fusable link issue. It would be great if there was a Painless Wiring CUCV kit. I'd install it in a minute. It's not like we need a whole lot.

 

[lizzy13]

warthog

can u send me a PM on how to take out the fuses and put back the fusable links......

plus i have a few questions for ya......

thanks