Curt receiver hitch for the Deuce, 18,000lb/1,800lb

[Stranger]

I installed the Draw-Tite 41947 Class V Ultra Frame on my 5-ton. Before I installed it, I also clamped it to the frame of my Deuce. It will work very well on either truck. If you have a Am_zon Prime membership they are only $166 shipped (as of 12/11/16).

I have a second one on the way for my Deuce.

 

[rustystud]

I installed the Draw-Tite 41947 Class V Ultra Frame on my 5-ton. Before I installed it, I also clamped it to the frame of my Deuce. It will work very well on either truck. If you have a Am_zon Prime membership they are only $166 shipped (as of 12/11/16).

I have a second one on the way for my Deuce.

I went with the "Curt" 15400 myself. Besides having a higher towing capacity it is also a 2.5" receiver which means it can handle the heavy duty towing adapters.

 

[TsgtB]

... but my Curt 15400 is only 2"...

 

[Stranger]

I went with the "Curt" 15400 myself. Besides having a higher towing capacity it is also a 2.5" receiver which means it can handle the heavy duty towing adapters.

I think Curt Manufacturing must have changed the specs in recent years, because their website says the 15400 has a 17,000 lb rating and a 2" receiver.

http://www.curtmfg.com/part/15400 (Edited to say: Or you can Google 'Curt 15400' and click on the first curtmfg.com link)

Those are close enough to the same specs as the Draw-Tite (16,000 lb rating) I bought. I was also eyeing the Curt 15800 which was only fifty bucks more, and has a 20,000 lb rating with 2.5" receiver.

I went with the Draw-Tite because I wanted to be able to remove the horizontal cross-member, but leave the mounting plates in place.

I don't plan on doing any heavy hauling with mine. The most I will drag around is 5,000 lbs of scout trailer loaded with gear. The "extra" capacity simply means that I won't ever worry about something getting stressed and breaking.

 

[rustystud]

I think Curt Manufacturing must have changed the specs in recent years, because their website says the 15400 has a 17,000 lb rating and a 2" receiver.

http://www.curtmfg.com/part/15400 (Edited to say: Or you can Google 'Curt 15400' and click on the first curtmfg.com link)

Those are close enough to the same specs as the Draw-Tite (16,000 lb rating) I bought. I was also eyeing the Curt 15800 which was only fifty bucks more, and has a 20,000 lb rating with 2.5" receiver.

I went with the Draw-Tite because I wanted to be able to remove the horizontal cross-member, but leave the mounting plates in place.

I don't plan on doing any heavy hauling with mine. The most I will drag around is 5,000 lbs of scout trailer loaded with gear. The "extra" capacity simply means that I won't ever worry about something getting stressed and breaking.

That is funny. I'm pretty sure mine said it was the 15400 model. It is the 2.5" hitch though. Since I painted over everything I don't have the model number available anymore. I wanted the 2.5" hitch since I had to drop the ball down to tow my trailer and I liked the beefy adapter for the 2.5" .

 

[OhMyDeere]

I sent CURT a drawing of the frame dimensions, and CURT provided a list of Class 4 and Class 5 hitches that fit the frame width of the M35A3. Class 4's rated at 12,000 lbs. include 14048, 14070, 14082. Class 5's rated at 17,000 lbs. include 15400 and 15445. Class 5's rated at 20,000 lbs. include 15800 and 15845. I installed the CURT 15845 Class 5. I documented the installation of the hitch, the 24V to 12V relay, and all wiring including the brake controller that I will gladly share once I figure out how to do so. Happy hauling!

 

[Jbulach]

Thank you, and welcome from South East Indiana!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rustystud]

I found my sales receipt and my tow hitch is the Curt # 15800 . I had written down the 15400 as one to look at. The 15800 fits great under the deuce and with the adapter can tow with any 2" hitch.

 

[rtadams89]

I found my sales receipt and my tow hitch is the Curt # 15800 .

It didn't take any custom fabrication to get the 15800 to fit? Just drilled some holes and bolted it on?

 

[rustystud]

It didn't take any custom fabrication to get the 15800 to fit? Just drilled some holes and bolted it on?

Yes, that was it. Real nice unit.

 

[OhMyDeere]

It didn't take any custom fabrication to get the 15800 to fit? Just drilled some holes and bolted it on?

Similar to the 15800, the CURT 15845 also does not require any hitch modification to install. I did add 1/2" steel blocks as spacers in the front to account for the different frame thickness, but that is because the 15845 is over 27 inches long. By comparison, the 15800 is 18 inches long, so no spacers would be needed with the frame being the same thickness along the entire mounting surface. I did buy longer carriage bolts than CURT supplies with the hitch, and upsized to 5/8" diameter instead of the supplied 9/16" bolts. The 2.5 ton frame must be thicker than the Ford frame that the hitch was designed around.

 

[WolfDeuce]

I sent CURT a drawing of the frame dimensions, and CURT provided a list of Class 4 and Class 5 hitches that fit the frame width of the M35A3. Class 4's rated at 12,000 lbs. include 14048, 14070, 14082. Class 5's rated at 17,000 lbs. include 15400 and 15445. Class 5's rated at 20,000 lbs. include 15800 and 15845. I installed the CURT 15845 Class 5. I documented the installation of the hitch, the 24V to 12V relay, and all wiring including the brake controller that I will gladly share once I figure out how to do so. Happy hauling!View attachment 672756

Did you ever post the document showing the hitch and brake controller install?

 

[V8srfun]

I know this is slightly off topic but I believe it is pertinent information to the original discussion.

when I worked for E-ONE if we needed to drill a hole in the frame for any reason it had to be in the side of the frame. We were not allowed in any circumstances to put a hole in the top or bottom because quality department said it was a potential cracking point and therefore not safe(this may be because they had a lifetime frame warranty). my question is do these hitches require you to drill in the bottom or the side of the frame and does anyone have issues with doing so if that is what has to be done to attach the hitch.

 

[cattlerepairman]

I know this is slightly off topic but I believe it is pertinent information to the original discussion.

when I worked for E-ONE if we needed to drill a hole in the frame for any reason it had to be in the side of the frame. We were not allowed in any circumstances to put a hole in the top or bottom because quality department said it was a potential cracking point and therefore not safe(this may be because they had a lifetime frame warranty). my question is do these hitches require you to drill in the bottom or the side of the frame and does anyone have issues with doing so if that is what has to be done to attach the hitch.

My first thought about the Deuce is that the holes for the trailer hitch are drilled in the end portion of the frame that sits behind the rear axles and is therefore not crucial for the weight carrying capacity of the truck.

V8srfun, I know that there is a difference between the Deuce frame (mild steel) and modern truck frames (horizontal parts "flanges" are heat treated, vertical part "web" generally is not). From our fire trucks I am also aware, as you say, that drilling into the flanges is a no-no,. Holes go through the web only.

Engineers might chime in but I believe that holes need to go where you have a "neutral" zone that is neither compressed nor under tension when the frame carries the application specific loads. Otherwise, as you point out, cracks can begin to form. Therefore, in the weight carrying section of the frame (as opposed to the overhangs) holes are drilled into the web (side) only.

With the Deuce frame not being hardened to the point of modern trucks I suspect it ends up being overall "beefier" and the stringent rules for modern trucks may not be as critical. Others will chime in.

 

[jimm1009]

I guess it is a moot point but I put my hitch up to mark the frame so that the hitch is as far aft as possible without touching the forward rivet head. It seems to work ok. and I placed by 1.5 inch receiver bar there just to eyeball the clearances for the OEM hitch, etc. and all looks well.
Here is a shot of it clamped in placed in it's final resting spot.
Oh by the way, I have read where you "just drill holes" and want to say something that I can't put here. lol
My 1970 M35A2 frame is pretty hard or I am just too old for this as it wore me out drilling just one 9/16 hole and I used two smaller bits to step it up to the final diameter. OMG!

 

[M37M35]

I mounted mine all the way out to the end of the frame rails and used a piece of 1/4" strap to space it over the rivets. Been working great for a few years now. The frame isn't hardened, but it is a pain to drill.

My install.

 

[Another Ahab]

I mounted mine all the way out to the end of the frame rails and used a piece of 1/4" strap to space it over the rivets. Been working great for a few years now. The frame isn't hardened, but it is a pain to drill.

Any steel over 3/16" (even mild steel):

- A Mag Drill is THE way to go

Of course, if you can get your hands on one. A local machine shop might do it for you (gone that route a couple of times).

 

[nathantc409]

I know this is slightly off topic but I believe it is pertinent information to the original discussion.

when I worked for E-ONE if we needed to drill a hole in the frame for any reason it had to be in the side of the frame. We were not allowed in any circumstances to put a hole in the top or bottom because quality department said it was a potential cracking point and therefore not safe(this may be because they had a lifetime frame warranty). my question is do these hitches require you to drill in the bottom or the side of the frame and does anyone have issues with doing so if that is what has to be done to attach the hitch.

its been working just fine for the gooseneck and bumper pull hitch on my Freightliner Cascadia for over a year of consistent use. Not much frame flex on the tail of the frame. Anywhere forward of the suspension mounts i'd bet could be an issue. As for drilling holes in frames, thank god i have a mag-drill and HOG bits. Normal drill bits would take a lifetime.

 

[Another Ahab]

As for drilling holes in frames, thank god i have a mag-drill and HOG bits. Normal drill bits would take a lifetime.

Familiar with the mag-drill (only way to go drilling any steel > 3/16"!):

- But might need to know about HOG bits (and I don't), what are those?

 

[nathantc409]

Familiar with the mag-drill (only way to go drilling any steel > 3/16"!):

- But might need to know about HOG bits (and I don't), what are those?

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