Cutting through 13mm Armor...and installing windows.

[BRDM2nco]

Hey there all, I have finally tracked down the BRDM for me. I am looking to cut windows into the corners of the vehicle to install additional windows to increase visibility.

What do ya think I'll need to accomplish that task?

-Sgt Rogers

 

[PorscheTech911]

Why would you ruin a nice vehicle like that? My suggestion: don't do it.

 

[cornrichard]

I think he wants to be able to see out.

 

[Andy1234]

Plasma cutter. As long as the armor will conduct electricity, a plasma cutter will cut it.

Andy

 

[B3.3T]

Plasma will do it easily, but like Porshetech, I do not suggest it. It will damage the value, appearance, and history of the vehicle. And you will forever be explaining to people why you cut up a good piece of armor. I strongly suggest you get it and live with it awhile before such plans. Another idea would be to use cameras. They are cheap and does not damage vehicle.

 

[BRDM2nco]

Plasma will do it easily, but like Porshetech, I do not suggest it. It will damage the value, appearance, and history of the vehicle. And you will forever be explaining to people why you cut up a good piece of armor. I strongly suggest you get it and live with it awhile before such plans. Another idea would be to use cameras. They are cheap and does not damage vehicle.

Cameras were something I originally intended to use on the vehicle, but the one I found that I like doesn't have a single periscope or viewing glass in the front, sides or rear. (Other than the twin front viewports, of course) I came across some pictures of a BRDM with corner and side windows that had been done very well and looked almost seamless and blended into the vehicle very well. Plus the view from the inside was terrific.

 

[moleary]

Ditto on the cameras - I would give serious thought to positioning several small cameras and a series of 4"-7" screens in the cockpit. There are a variety of systems that allow you to select from several cameras to display on one screen as well.

Also - with a decent camera equipped with IR transmitters you get some passable night vision without the cost of a FLIR system.

All that being said, its your armor - you can do what you want with it!

No matter how seamless you make the installation it seems to me that you will really compromise the vehicle's appearance and potentially its functionality.


Oh... and the most important thing!!! ::

 

[BRDM2nco]

How do you guys think I can mount them to the vix without compromising the armor? And Ill try to figure out pics.


http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...404842140197_528775197_10666925_1283038_n.jpg

 

[dittle]

You do have to understand that most of the guys on this website are of the keep it original belief. They're not being mean by any means its just the group of guys who are on here.

 

[BRDM2nco]

I understand, I was originally intending on the use of cameras, but as the vehicle I have picked out doesnt have viewing ports along the corners and sides, I am at a loss for how to install view cams. The majority of quality vehicle cameras are mounted on small hinge brackets, and I dont know know how to mount them so that I can have a full, street drivable view. The end state is that on occasion, I would like to be able to drive my vehicle to an area where I could take it into some water. For this to be done safely I would need visibility. The cameras I was looking at have an approximate 100 degree view angle. I figured I could take four of those, and a smaller one specific for a back up camera and cover my bases.

Would I be better off mounting them on top?

 

[dittle]

Are you wanting these cameras to be permanent? If so then the top mount would be your best bet for mounting with the least amount of stuff in your way. You could (least intrusive manner) drill and tap some mounts to the hull. That or try to weld (not sure of welder type required) some mounts on there.

 

[BRDM2nco]

Are you wanting these cameras to be permanent? If so then the top mount would be your best bet for mounting with the least amount of stuff in your way. You could (least intrusive manner) drill and tap some mounts to the hull. That or try to weld (not sure of welder type required) some mounts on there.

Yes, permanent is what I'm looking for. I am however trying to find a way to secure or at least partially conceal them so they don't look weird or stand out too much. The top of the truck is totally flat, so perhaps I could build something that I could mount over them to make the vehicle look more natural.

 

[royaltiger1945]

BRDM2nco, I believe that what you have is not a BRDM2 but is a D-442 FUG or OT-65 as a BRDM2 is much blockier. There is a couple of videos of a OT-65/BRDM2 mix that shows the version with side windows like what you are wanting on the www.russianmilitary.co.uk website. Look in the film gallery and you should find it at the bottom of the page.

Hope this helps you.

 

[moleary]

Royal - AWESOME LINK! Thanks a ton for that! I'm loving the video.

Agreed on the drill and tap piece for mounting the cameras...

 

[BRDM2nco]

BRDM2nco, I believe that what you have is not a BRDM2 but is a D-442 FUG or OT-65 as a BRDM2 is much blockier. There is a couple of videos of a OT-65/BRDM2 mix that shows the version with side windows like what you are wanting on the www.russianmilitary.co.uk website. Look in the film gallery and you should find it at the bottom of the page.

Hope this helps you.

Roger, it is a Czech OT-65

 

[rmgill]

I would worry that cutting the armor there could cause problems with structural integrity. Remember, that hull is a box. It's strong based on certain shapes. Change the shape and things could start cracking.

As to cameras, Fab up some boxes that have a slot and a cover and small brackets. It'd be trivial to weld a couple of bolts to the armor allowing you to attach a box and run wiring inside. You might be able to find wiring which has been run already and use those paths.

The camera boxes I would use would end up looking like what the israelis setup on the Merkava IV and newer AVFs. Essentially a heavy steel case with a glass cover over the camera. You could do this out of sheet metal and add a bit of sealant to keep it all tight and protect the cameras as well as not look rinki-dink. Basically something to keep the camera protected, allowing access for fixing as well as slotting in a bit of glass over the lens.

As I said, tack weld some short bolts to the armor and use those to attach the boxes and wiring harness to the hull. Use some armoured cable conduit for protecting the wire from feet and branches and you're pretty much good to go.

Mount the boxes such that you can see a 2-3 point view to the front and sides. Mount one in back so you can see in reverse and add yourself some small LCD screens for the views. It won't be too complex and would be pretty nifty. You'll be the envy of your swat guys.

West Georgia Tactical already has some thing set up like this. Check out their M114 builds.

 

[B3.3T]

Now that you have clarified your interest is actually an OT-65, there is a new problem to consider: The OT-65 uses a Wilson Pre-select gearbox, similar to a Ferret, Fox, Saladin, and Saracen. These gearboxes work fine when well-adjusted and not abused. But when there are problems, there are problems. They are extremely complex and very difficult to get parts. And Very expensive due to number of parts. Each gear has its own "clutch" surface, and each must maintain adjustment or will burn out.

 

[EZFEED]

I would re-think the cutting idea for the reasons RMGILL posted and also for the fact that it is some really...really hard stuff. My Lizard has 15mm frontal armor and 10mm sides and top, I was trying to drill out a little antenna hole a little wider (little smaller than 1/4" and wanted to ream out to 1/4") the other day and it took the torch and about 30 minutes to get through. Takes a little while to get red too. Best bet is to weld a nut on the inside of the cab. Mig might do it but I'd TIG it if you can to be sure it sticks.

If its Czech like you say then its probably from the same era and that compressed chrome-moly armor plate is bad to work with. Thats why the welds are so thick.