jward1
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How do you tell what 7,10,12,k axles I have? On a 1986 m1038
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Cv axles
- Thread starter jward1
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If they are original they are 7K, if they have been replaced they are likely 10K.
Give me a minuet and I will measure some 7K shafts, you can tell by the dia. of the shaft.
Give me a minuet and I will measure some 7K shafts, you can tell by the dia. of the shaft.
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I measure the 7K at 1.088", they would not be 12K unless someone other than the military did a ton of work replacing all the gear hubs, so not likely.
The 7K shafts are not considered rebuildable. and even the 10K shafts which if you catch them early enough are, are not worth the effort given how cheap the Autozone half shafts are, with a lifetime guarantee which I have used without question only because my Duramax powered M998 can go fast enough to destroy half shaft boots, that is not going to happen with ANY Detroit powered HMMWV.
The 7K shafts are not considered rebuildable. and even the 10K shafts which if you catch them early enough are, are not worth the effort given how cheap the Autozone half shafts are, with a lifetime guarantee which I have used without question only because my Duramax powered M998 can go fast enough to destroy half shaft boots, that is not going to happen with ANY Detroit powered HMMWV.
- 711
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- 93
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- Southern Minnesota
Autozone parts.. Duralast Gold New CV Axle
When I checked a few days ago, they were all right around $150 on the autozone website, and available. These are the 10k CVs, which are compatible with both the 7k and 10k HMMWVs.
Front - Driver - 16058N
Front - Passenger - 16059N
Rear - both - 16060N
(note: I have not bought them using these numbers, I'm repeating what I found on other threads. But I do intend to use these numbers to buy myself a spare set at some point.. "just in case".)
When I checked a few days ago, they were all right around $150 on the autozone website, and available. These are the 10k CVs, which are compatible with both the 7k and 10k HMMWVs.
Front - Driver - 16058N
Front - Passenger - 16059N
Rear - both - 16060N
(note: I have not bought them using these numbers, I'm repeating what I found on other threads. But I do intend to use these numbers to buy myself a spare set at some point.. "just in case".)
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Those are good numbers, look up 1995, Hummer, H1
jward1
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Thanks the truck is 86 has 2mwo seatbelt and rear frame brace to pull trailer. It came out in 2016. Sept 2015 was last mwo. So guessing 16 came out c&c equipment kinda refurb it and sold in 17 to person I got it from 1-2 months ago.
jward1
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Has 6.5 na in it runs out great
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- Evansville, IN
pleats on the boots... 7k has 3, 10k has 5... easy peasy
Glider
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I recently replaced all. I bought 2 from summit and 2 from autozone. The ones from summit were very competitively priced. So cheap I was worried they would not be correct. I only bought two as the other part number not avaliable thru them.
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Holy Moly, they are cheaper by far, and you are correct they only have the rear ones in stock but can order the others, buy 2 and the shipping is free! that would be 2 shafts for the price of 1 at Autozone.
I would be willing to bet they are from the same manufacture.
They list the one for the rear as the passenger side but of course the rear are the same for ether side.
I am going to check my stock.....
EDIT, these are about the same prices that Autozone had when I started ordering them
I would be willing to bet they are from the same manufacture.
They list the one for the rear as the passenger side but of course the rear are the same for ether side.
I am going to check my stock.....
EDIT, these are about the same prices that Autozone had when I started ordering them
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Vapor Trail
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At those prices would they be Chinese knock offs or domestic? I want to do this once and not mess with it for a long time. I was thinking the OEM ones were like 450 each. I'm not sure which ones I have. It's a 32 spline 2004 M1123 with the large vented brake rotors. Would that be 12k or 10 k?
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Yes they are "aftermarket" but I have beat on them with over 450HP and I have only been able to kill them with 3 digit speeds.
I believe your M1123 has 12K so you only have OEM sources for them.
AS it turns out this is a very timely series of posts, and NO GOOD DEED GOES UNPUNISHED...
I was just coming back from Corpus just now from picking up some parts being repaired for my FAV by my metal guys, tooling along at the posted 75MPH and some moron pulling a 40ft dove tail blows by me at a very high rate of speed and he is dragging a ramp, I had to exceed the max allowable half shaft speed to catch him to warn him, I did not do this for him, I did it so maybe he would not kill somebody else by losing parts off of his trailer, unfortunately when I got to my gate the unmistakable evidence was on the back of the DuraVee, as I said this is the only way I have been able to kill the aftermarket half shafts, the rubber used in the boots are more supple than the rubber used in the OEM half shafts and at 3 digit speeds they grow enough to get ripped by the suspension components.
After the first couple of shafts I turned in for warranty I finally figured this out and will not use the warranty being that it would never happen to a HMMWV with a stock or even "performance" Detroit engine.
I could just replace the boots but for $73 it's not worth the greasy crap fest to tear one apart, although it will be put back in case that changes in the future.
After doing this guy a favor I did give the Bee County Sheriff's Dpt. a heads up on this guy, that may actually go farther to help someone else than getting him to stow his ramp.
I have a pair of the rear shafts coming from Summit!!
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Well that was fast, received the half shafts today, ordered Thursday afternoon, delivered on Saturday.
Now I have to pull the FAV chassis out of the bay so I can get the DuraVee on the lift!
Now I have to pull the FAV chassis out of the bay so I can get the DuraVee on the lift!
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- Sweeden, KY
Mogman, that's an interesting problem where the bellows balloon at high speed and are damaged. It is common for bellows expansion joints as used on chemical process/refinery equipment to have reinforcing rings to withstand higher pressure. Maybe you could equip your joints with reinforcing rings. You would want to be careful about introducing imbalance.
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OK, so I got the DuraVee up on the lift today and the failure was not what I expected, the boot simply slipped off of the flange.
I could have just put more grease in it and a new clamp but I wanted to see how the Summit half shafts compared and it is pretty clear they are from the same manufacturer.
Now even though this may have never happened but for the fact I over sped the half shafts I am considering this a parts failure.
Every time I use one of my ratcheting wrenches I want to say something,,, most will say "well DUH" but if you use one of the non reversible ratcheting wrenches to remove bolts, say in this situation you are going to be screwed, if you back this bolt out you will jam against the body of the half shaft and then you go get a torch because there will be no other way out! you cannot remove the wrench and you cannot reverse it to get out of this bind, fortunately I have never been in this situation and hope nobody else ever is.
I have found this to be the best way to torque the inside bolts on a 10K half shaft, remember if you use it as shown you have to compensate for the extra leverage on the bolt, I set my torque wrench for about 47ftlb. if you run it at a right angle you do not have to compensate.
I could have just put more grease in it and a new clamp but I wanted to see how the Summit half shafts compared and it is pretty clear they are from the same manufacturer.
Now even though this may have never happened but for the fact I over sped the half shafts I am considering this a parts failure.
Every time I use one of my ratcheting wrenches I want to say something,,, most will say "well DUH" but if you use one of the non reversible ratcheting wrenches to remove bolts, say in this situation you are going to be screwed, if you back this bolt out you will jam against the body of the half shaft and then you go get a torch because there will be no other way out! you cannot remove the wrench and you cannot reverse it to get out of this bind, fortunately I have never been in this situation and hope nobody else ever is.
I have found this to be the best way to torque the inside bolts on a 10K half shaft, remember if you use it as shown you have to compensate for the extra leverage on the bolt, I set my torque wrench for about 47ftlb. if you run it at a right angle you do not have to compensate.
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Thinking about the ballooning problem, I looked around on the internet a bit and found a few examples of CV boots equipped with anti-ballooning rings. Some pictures and a file with links:
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- Papalote, TX
Zippy Ties (as the wife calls them) would be a real cheap fix!!
I am tempted to strap some of my knockoff GoPro's under there and really see what happens, it only has happened to the rear half shafts, I actually still have one of the original half shafts on the front.
I would assume it is the hand brake bracket that causes to destruction, but I have lost boots on the inside and outside so...
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Well I wish I had tried something, that Summit half shaft did not last long, I do not think I ever exceeded 80MPH in the 400 (edit, actually about 300 miles) or so miles it was on there, went to Corpus for supplies today and picked up a bad vibration on I37 in town, stopped and as you can see the dang thing has even changed color indicating it was pretty damn hot, that is smoke in the picture not a dirty lens it looked like it was about to catch on fire.
I was almost 40 miles from home, so I limped down the shoulder at 25-30MPH, checked again after about 8 miles and it was not nearly as hot, I had also put it in 4WD to try and relieve some of the torque and to hopefully guarantee I would be able to power my way out of trouble in case the shaft let go.
So I guess I will take the last shaft and rebuild it with OEM boots, it was not run long enough to hurt it.
This shaft on the other hand is toasted pretty good, it was complaining pretty loudly by the time I got to the gate.
I was almost 40 miles from home, so I limped down the shoulder at 25-30MPH, checked again after about 8 miles and it was not nearly as hot, I had also put it in 4WD to try and relieve some of the torque and to hopefully guarantee I would be able to power my way out of trouble in case the shaft let go.
So I guess I will take the last shaft and rebuild it with OEM boots, it was not run long enough to hurt it.
This shaft on the other hand is toasted pretty good, it was complaining pretty loudly by the time I got to the gate.
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One saving grace was one of my stops was at Clemtex for blasting media for my cabinet, I have been using glass beads and wanted to try something more aggressive, I selected two types of media and they were so impressed with the DuraVee and it's 20lb of engine in a 10lb engine bay they called the $80 worth of media "samples", said to get back to them on which one I preferred so that pretty much paid for that half shaft!