msharky007 - thank you for sharing - half of my cylinders are bleeding and I would appreciate your help in sharing how you did it and what seals kit you acquired.
Sometimes, slight bleeding stops after using the cylinders for a while. If it gets worse you have to change the seals.
Get the part number of the seal kit from the TM and then either buy original from a Case dealer or chose one of the aftermarket options.
The hard part in preparation for changing the seals is unscrewing the gland from the cylinder barrel. Your local hydraulic shop may help there if you cannot get it loose with spanner wrench or pipe wrench. You also need a serious wrench or socket to unscrew the bolt that holds the piston on the rod.
Due to these machines having been exposed to the elements for decades, expect corrosion between the seals and gland. I addressed that on my lathe and then created a leak proof seat with a thin coat of JB weld between seal and gland groove. Some people just put the seal in the rusty groove and are fine but I did not want to have to redo the whole process in the near future.
On some cylinders you may have a fight with the pivot pins. On both of my outrigger legs, I had to cut the bottom pin into three pieces with a big cutoff wheel just to get the cylinder out. Pressing the stub out of the cylinder eye required heat even under a pretty serious hydraulic press. I drilled the pieces stuck in the outrigger legs in the center all the way through and then turned them into thin bushings with the oxyacetylene torch. The remains were easily banged out. New pins can be found on ebay by searching for the part number found in the TM or at the local Case dealer.
The whole exercise was neither a quick nor a pleasant one but it is very rewarding when the machine does not leak oil like a sieve anymore.
