After the change of the axles I am going to the 36 " and there I modify rims of H1 to pass in 37"
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=285-75r16-36-12.5r16.5
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=285-75r16-36-12.5r16.5
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I just finished ( almost ) a 1 ton swap into the M1009. I'm a thinking you may have kept the drums. Not sure what I did will directly benefit your situation. I headed for disc brakes and found the OEM E-brake cable to be a bit long, sout about 8 inches off the OEM cable and will be swaging on a stainless steel button stop then installing the finished cable onto the disc set-up. I will be sure to do a max multiple test of the swaged on button stop before I have confidence it will hold. I tried to find a Tucson shop that could machine on the button stop, but no luck, so I bought a 1DMU9 swaging tool from Bezos, stainless buttons from the net and waiting for all to arrive. Meanwhile, its' an e-brake. Haven't had one of those for 6 months.Can any of you guys help me with ebrake cables? There are multiple sizes for the 14 bolt and I can't figure out which ones are correct for a m1009 with a 14 bolt axle.
Tell us moreSometimes I wish I would of just kept the drums.
Not without moving the spring pads on the axle. I believe the suburbans with 14b's have the correct spring pad spacing.Can you swap axles with springs from ton single wheel 14 b to an M1009?
understand that using rear springs from M1009 for front springs?
Thank you for info. Checked into it measured spring perches 14b came off 3500 long bed measured same as M1009 I have Purchased rolling frame with axles, springs and hardware inc brakes done a lot of measurements to see about fitNot without moving the spring pads on the axle. I believe the suburbans with 14b's have the correct spring pad spacing.
10/4 on the paint. Got a little ahead of myself when things started going together well. Got a little rust bullet left over from the body work Stuff works great.Looks nice but yes I kept the drums. I'd rather just pop for the new cables then buy a swedging tool and "customize" my own.
Don't forget to paint all your new parts.
I think the different lengths are for dually vs non dually. I'm just gonna buy the longer ones and see what happens.
I took the m1009 out into the hills today and last Saturday. I am LOVING these axles, this is by far the best modification I've done so far. The truck drives smooth and it's 4x4 capabilities have increased immensely.
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It takes longer, but eventually the diff housing will wear down (up, technically) by being scraped over rocks and create extra clearance all by itself.I used a barns shave cover before I put mine in. No welding required, just cutting the giant lip off the bottom and running 1 less bolt. There are more expensive kits that take way more work if you need more clearance.
Setup looks good! Is that the factory 208 tcase? Whose slip yoke eliminator is that? I didnt think they made one for a 208.I just finished ( almost ) a 1 ton swap into the M1009. I'm a thinking you may have kept the drums. Not sure what I did will directly benefit your situation. I headed for disc brakes and found the OEM E-brake cable to be a bit long, sout about 8 inches off the OEM cable and will be swaging on a stainless steel button stop then installing the finished cable onto the disc set-up. I will be sure to do a max multiple test of the swaged on button stop before I have confidence it will hold. I tried to find a Tucson shop that could machine on the button stop, but no luck, so I bought a 1DMU9 swaging tool from Bezos, stainless buttons from the net and waiting for all to arrive. Meanwhile, its' an e-brake. Haven't had one of those for 6 months.
Hope this helps.
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