Delco 24v alternator bracket modification

[donquijote]

Anyone interested in sharing how you modified your bracket to seat the Delco 24v alternator? Looks like the easiest way is to cut a notch out the mounting bracket...

DELCO 24v Back Pic
DELCO 24v Bottom Pic

Thanks!

 

[BLK HMMWV]

I'm just curious why your not using a alternator made for the HMMWV to begin with.
I'd suggest a 100 or 200 amp dual voltage unit before I used that.

 

[donquijote]

I've had a few people suggest using delco's. My Niehoff regulator was bad and I fried the humvee. So from other owners, this is a better upgrade in a sense that you get a better internal regulator.

 

[Action]

How did those other owners mount theirs?

 

[donquijote]

Exactly what I'm trying to find out. Cutting a notch where the rear alternator bracket can slide into the mounting housing, looks to be the easiest way. Then you can run a longer bolt through it and connect it to the rear bracket.

But I'll wait a little bit before I reinvent the wheel and someone has an easier solution.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[BLK HMMWV]

I think what Action is saying is you should probably ask the other owners who suggested using it what they did to mount theirs.

I can't imagine it being better having an internal regulator. What happens when it goes bad?
With a Niehoff you just replace the regulator.

I'm not saying it isn't I just can't imagine that the trucks still in service haven't been switch over to Delco's so there must be a reason.

 

[dilvoy]

What is a Delco Alternator? If you are going to run Military Radio's then you may get static and if it is an alternator as used on Civilian General Motors Cars and Trucks, it is possibly water resistant, but probably not water proof.

 

[donquijote]

Delco is the brand
part# 8600388

I will run radios down the road, but will run my custom SDR setup in my trucks. Is there such a thing as a 100% waterproof alternator, they have to breath at some point or they will burn up yea?

 

[dilvoy]

The Humvee stuff is all sealed up with seals and the like. Even the starter and switches are. It doesn't mean that they will never get water in them, but they try to keep it that way. The USMC Humvees even have the Fuel lift pump and power steering reservoir vented to the air intake stack so as to keep out water when fording. Humvees use Generators not Alternators. You can usually spot a generator easily, because they are long, where alternators are not. Just look at an old car from the '50's or earlier and you will see what I am talking about.

 

[infidel got me]

The military alternators will fry your electronics and are unreliable, expensive and hard to find parts for. I replaced mine on my 5 ton and my Humvee with no problems. When the military alternator decides to go full field it will fry your headlights, smart start box, and cook your abs module on your 5 ton. I will get some pics of it mounted to engine as soon as rain lets up.

 

[donquijote]

The military alternators will fry your electronics and are unreliable, expensive and hard to find parts for. I replaced mine on my 5 ton and my Humvee with no problems. When the military alternator decides to go full field it will fry your headlights, smart start box, and cook your abs module on your 5 ton. I will get some pics of it mounted to engine as soon as rain lets up.

Exactly what happened to mine... all fried. Thanks for getting some pics on your setup.

 

[infidel got me]

I added a 90 to the top bracket so I could use the factory belts. The bottom mount was a little tricky-- I used threaded rod and a spacer, a few made up mounting brackets. I did it all in a afternoon with a sawsall, die grinder and a drill. It will be a lot easier on the next one as I know what to do now. You will use the original brackets that the alt. was mounted to the engine. Simple one wire hook-up and best of all you don't have to take out a small business loan to replace all your fried electronics. Good luck on the repair....... if you need any help pm me and I'll walk you through it.

 

[infidel got me]

alt

View attachment 667753View attachment 667754View attachment 667755 I added a 90 to the top bracket so I could use the factory belts. The bottom mount was a little tricky-- I used threaded rod and a spacer, a few made up mounting brackets. I did it all in a afternoon with a sawsall, die grinder and a drill. It will be a lot easier on the next one as I know what to do now. You will use the original brackets that the alt. was mounted to the engine. Simple one wire hook-up and best of all you don't have to take out a small business loan to replace all your fried electronics. Good luck on the repair....... if you need any help pm me and I'll walk you through it. I read your post again- I didn't cut the original bracket, I made two mounting tabs and mounted it above that-also made a spacer to fit between the alternator mounting ears, so when you tighten bottom bolt you don't break the ears off.

 

[infidel got me]

alt

Sorry about double post

 

[TOBASH]

Is there no way to place a second regulator and warning circuit as a safety if and when the first fails on the military generator? I prefer a generator as it will function without a functional battery.

Either that, or is there a suggested period after which we should replace the regulator on a routine basis?

Best,

T

 

[infidel got me]

here are some better pics

 

[tkdtim]

Did mine the same as infidel, modeled after his actually. 2,000 miles and 5 months later and no issues.

 

[DLJIII]

You are saying, this $100 alternator will mount to and operate a M998?
A modified mount is all that is required?
How did you wire it exactly, I mean my alternator is dying and I really cant afford $600 for a replacement.
The threads I have been reading talk about the dual 12 and 24, 200amp alternators are standard now.
How did you wire it in?
Great job by the way, I would love to do this in my truck rather than the mess I am currently in after buying the wrong alternator and needing a $600 replacement still.

 

[tkdtim]

[h=2]What I used:
Delco Style 21-SI
Two Groove Diesel Truck Alternator Pulley 3 1/8" D .7/8" Bore W/ Keyway (not used, just screwed on)[/h]Ordered those off Ebay. Got some flatbar stock and threaded bar (with several washers and nuts) from fleet farm. Took out old generator. Made a short riser (2"?) straight up from the bottom mount with the flatbar. Extended the top bracket by welding on a (4"?) piece of flatbar. Threaded rod through bottom mount with a few nuts and washers to keep it firmly in place. infidel has pictures. Wiring is just a hot and a ground. The rest of the wires I terminated. I did just end up using 2 of the 3 V belts. Not at all saying this is the best way, but I haven't had any issues if you're just trying to get it up and going.

 

[DLJIII]

Ok, that is not hard at all. A little fabrication and you are in business.
Interesting approach and comparing the cost of a newly refurbished alternator, this option is more realistic.
I dont need to worry about mudding or burying my rig up to the glass in water, the most moisture it will be is snow on the county roads in winter.
Wiring is straight forward and simplified, the regular N alts everyone has to ask about the 12v leads and grounding them since they dont use them anyway.
When they do they put in a grounding harness and run new 12v lines anyway.
It just seems like a lot of extra work when a stepdown or 12v post on the second battery would do the job as well.
Adding a third battery like others have said and done would be easier too.
The performances are close, charging and amp loads just a different generating source which I think makes people uncomfortable.
Maybe, rightly so. I would like to hear from someone who had this system in place for a year and tacked on 15,000 miles or something.
Either way, it is worth exploring.
Thank you gents for sharing.