detroit lockers in bobbed deuce w/5 ton rear springs

[miltruckman]

I am working on bobbing a deuce using the front spring set from a 5 ton truck. I currently have the bed off and it is the perfec time to get into the rear Differential.

I purchased two detroit lockers from Reider Racing several years ago. I had originally planned to install them in the rear axles of my M342, 2-1/2 ton dump truck.

But with my new bobbed deuce project underway I have decided to install at least one in that truck.

I am looking for advice for this procedure. I have rebuilt transmissions, engines, etc. virtually every part of the truck except the differential.

Will I need any special parts Such as shim sets, etc.?

Has anyone ever written a basic set of directions for this procedure and what to check while I am in there? How to check back lash, clearances, etc?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill
Michigan

 

[mudguppy]

don't think so, looks very straight forward and even easier than a ford 9".

fourwheeler article here.

4wheeloffroad article here and here.

might also want to search pirate4x4 for write-ups. but, again, i think it's straight-forward.

 

[wehring]

call randy

Hey Bill,

Ouverson lockers are top shelf and a bit cheaper than Detroit.

Justin
979 997 3112

 

[miltruckman]

I know it justin, But I already have these. Did you see how I configured the rear crossmember and hitch? I measured it all out so it will all just clear and the tailgate will hinge strait down. I'll still have to cut a couple of notches in the end of the frame rails when the bed is in place for the lower edge of the tailgate. I really like the 5 ton suspension too.

Bill
Michigan

 

[wehring]

Yup

yes, i spent a lot of time today studying your pics. Very nice detail. I too like how the 5 ton springs are working for you. Any idea what the total height gain (frame tail to floor) you got from the conversion?

Justin

 

[firetruckie517]

Looks good, Bill. Keep doing trucks like this, we may end up back in Indy for another 7 trucks!

Mike

 

[tm america]

nice job bill .like the brackets.nice to see someone go the extra mile

 

[miltruckman]

I did gain some height with the 5 ton spring setup. I'll get a measurement frame to floor tonight. anyone know the original frame to floor height for an m35?

The notch I mentioned cutting in the rear end of the frame rail will be a consequence of, when the tailgate is folded down, the rear of the bottom edge will contact the rear ends of the frame. I don't want to cut it until I get the bed in place so I know exactly how much to remove.

I'll be stopping by the steel company today to pick up a 4 ft peice of 3" x 3" angle iron. I'll be cutting it into 6 inch long peices to weld to the mounting brackets that are already on the trailer bed. I already moved the original bed mounting brackets on the truck frame to match the positions of the trailer bed brackets. This will also allow me to use the original front bed spring mounts to protect the truck frame from cracking.

By the way, when bolting the 5 ton spring hangers to the deuce truck frame, I found that the best position is to remove some of the rivets from the bottom of the truck frame and most of the holes in the brackets will line right up with where the rivets holes are. This also allows the remaining rivets to line up with the open spots in the brackets like they are supposed to. The only disadvantage to this is that 7 inches have to be removed from the bottom of the front center trailer bed support brace (the vertical brace on the front center of the trailer bed side) . As the bed must be moved another 1-1/4 inch to the front to line up the axle with the wheel well. A minor concession to the strength of the trailer bed.

Also, I MIG welded the axle adapter plates to the original axle plates. This worked very well. They must be cast steel, not cast iron.

I did have to grind off the weld ridge on the top and bottom seem of the axle tube. I found that the bottom seam on one end was porus and oil seeped out through the tiny pin-holes. I solved this by running a layer of weld over the old poor weld and grinding it smooth again.

Bill
Michigan

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

As far as gear lash goes, I would shim it so that you can just barely feel the pinion gear bump against the ring gear as you rotate it one way and then the other.

 

[miltruckman]

I just measured the frame height from the floor to the bottom of the frame. With the 5 ton front spring set mounted in the rear these are the heights:

Just in front of the front tire 30-5/8 inches
Just behind the front tire 31 inches
Just in front of the rear axle 33 inches
behind the rear tire close to the end of the frame 34-1/4 inches

THis is before the box is on the truck so I may see a small change.
So, from the far rear to the far front it is a difference of 3-5/8 inches.