Deuce Air System Questions

[rmesgt]

Due to multiple failures in my copper air lines, I have been thinking about replacing copper with plastic (nylon?). Will the existing air line nuts work with a plastic or nylon air line (see pic below)? I see that with the copper, you only need the ferrule that slides over the line. I think that with the plastic or nylon lines, you need the external ferrule as well as the inside thing (don't know what it's called).

My online search shows there are quite a few vendors that supply air brake line, which I guess will work in lieu of the copper throughout my truck. I would like the opinions of others who have make the switch from copper to plastic. I would like to where you purchased your materials. I would like to know how many different sizes I need (guessing 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4"). I would also like to know how much to buy (linear feet) before I begin replacing the lines. I saw a post about how to do the brake lines, (sizes, lengths, placement, etc) but I didn't know if this had been done for the airline. I did a search for "air line replacement" in the deuce forum, but I didn't see anything on this topic. Perhaps I didn't run enough searches... Thoughts anyone??

 

[Karl kostman]

I will try to help here as far as I can and trust nothing is for certain! As far as the fastening joints I believe its a 3 part system for nylon lines, one way to make sure is to look at your injection lines just pull one off and see whats there. I do not know about the different sizes of lines on the Deuce? One thing to make sure of though is to make sure your using good grommets for the lines where they pass through frame structures and any supports, abrasion could become an issue!

 

[swbradley1]

I suggest going to a Parker Hannifin dealer that supplies fittings. Locally for me it is Triad Technologies and I had them make up some patches for my hard copper line. I never thought about converting them to something other than copper but I am sure they had the stuff to do it.

 

[kendelrio]

Also make sure the line is rated for at least 1.5x your working pressure!

 

[G744]

I've found the old style ferrules work fine with the plastic tubing.

Just make sure to use the proper 'internals' for plastic.

 

[rmesgt]

Also make sure the line is rated for at least 1.5x your working pressure!

I believe the working pressure for a deuce is 120 PSI. The advertisement states the nylon lines are rated at 220 PSI. I think this should be within the pressure window. Your thoughts?

 

[rmesgt]

While trying to discover the different locations of my air leaks, I found this:



This is what is left of the service glad hand on the rear DS.

 

[kendelrio]

I believe the working pressure for a deuce is 120 PSI. The advertisement states the nylon lines are rated at 220 PSI. I think this should be within the pressure window. Your thoughts?

Lemme see.... (I hate mathing)....

120x1.5=180.

You should be good.

 

[swbradley1]

While trying to discover the different locations of my air leaks, I found this:

View attachment 910564

This is what is left of the service glad hand on the rear DS.

A recommended fix in an emergency situation. BUT, now is a good time to make it right.

 

[rmesgt]

A recommended fix in an emergency situation. BUT, now is a good time to make it right.

I wonder how well plumbing ball valves would work and last at the rear of the truck. Those I can from Lowes. Your thoughts?

 

[swbradley1]

I fall back to what I suggested, Parker Hannifin.

Unless I find something better I will be using these or like them on the back of my newly acquired M915A1 as I freshen up the glad hands and valves. It is a full air brake system and would be easier to lose air on it than on a Deuce or M809 series. I could be wrong and the more experienced than me can correct me.

Brakes is brakes and I prefer they work for me.

https://ph.parker.com/us/en/product-list/industrial-brass-ball-valves

The 1/2 inch ball valve in brass is about $55 each. Just an example.

 

[G744]

Truck supply houses sell gladhands with valves built-in. Not expensive, DOT approved.

 

[rmesgt]

Truck supply houses sell gladhands with valves built-in. Not expensive, DOT approved.
[/QUOTE
I found some of these integrated valve-glad hand parts (red and blue) on Amazon. I think I will get a pair of these. My deuce no longer has the glad hand system.

 

[rmesgt]

I have been working on the air system reservoirs and have removed the tanks from my deuce. I noticed this part (see the pic below) on the tank closest to the DS truck frame. The -20P manual (figure 127A) shows this as a Valve, PN 10922157. I researched the part number and determined that this is a check valve. If it is supposed to be there, is it supposed to stop the air? Perhaps it is to restrict air movement. If it supposed to stop the air, my valve is broken as I can blow though the pipe. However, it takes a bit of force to get air through it. What about you all? Do you have this "check valve" on your truck? Is it necessary? Could I get away with removing it? Thoughts Anyone??

 

[Computerdoc08]

This should be the correct replacement. I wouldn’t run without one installed.

Check Valve

 

[rmesgt]

This should be the correct replacement. I wouldn’t run without one installed.

Check Valve

Thank you for this info and link. I didn't think to check Big Mikes. I will order this part when I order the remote brake fluid reservoir. I was able to get my air tanks cleaned and painted. They are ready to be reinstalled, however I am going to replace the copper airlines with nylon (past the engine compartment). I hope to order the nylon air line this week coming.

 

[RedNBlue]

I have been working on the air system reservoirs and have removed the tanks from my deuce. I noticed this part (see the pic below) on the tank closest to the DS truck frame. The -20P manual (figure 127A) shows this as a Valve, PN 10922157. I researched the part number and determined that this is a check valve. If it is supposed to be there, is it supposed to stop the air? Perhaps it is to restrict air movement. If it supposed to stop the air, my valve is broken as I can blow though the pipe. However, it takes a bit of force to get air through it. What about you all? Do you have this "check valve" on your truck? Is it necessary? Could I get away with removing it? Thoughts Anyone??

View attachment 910766

The check valve is supposed to be there, and it should only allow air flow in one direction. It shouldn't take force. It should flow from the primary tank (passenger side) and then through the tube, through the valve, and into the secondary tank (driver side). The point of the valve is to keep some air in reserve for the brakes in case of a failure somewhere else in the system prior to that tank. I would NOT go without it. I just replaced mine, it was inexpensive and quickly shipped from White Owl Military Truck Parts, they're great to work with. https://whiteowlparts.com/

 

[rmesgt]

The check valve is supposed to be there, and it should only allow air flow in one direction. It shouldn't take force. It should flow from the primary tank (passenger side) and then through the tube, through the valve, and into the secondary tank (driver side). The point of the valve is to keep some air in reserve for the brakes in case of a failure somewhere else in the system prior to that tank. I would NOT go without it. I just replaced mine, it was inexpensive and quickly shipped from White Owl Military Truck Parts, they're great to work with. https://whiteowlparts.com/

I figured that was the responsibility of the valve. Once I cleaned it up and pushed some air through it, it started working again. I ordered one from Big Mikes anyway and will replace the old one when it gets here.