Deuce bed to dump trailer

[tobyS]

Making my deuce bed into a dump trailer to pull behind the M35A3 or M929A2. I have an M35A3 donor that I've once again decided to go 4x4 and use an M105 bed on it, making it a crew cab.... so I have a nice bed to start with and nothing wasted.

Here is one axle staged under the frame and next to the donor M105. The trailer gives up the front frame, jack and pintle connection to this trailer project. The second axle is being readied with the reinforcements for the hummer wheels and to position. I'll set the bed on to fit it to the frame when it's (temporarily on) both axles.

 

[m715mike]

I like it.

Did you start from scratch on the dump trailer frame, or did it come from something else?

 

[tobyS]

I had the steel tube on hand and had just enough to do it. The bottom tube is an od size 3 1/2" x1/4", has a but weld, but I got it welded straight . I wanted something substantial (3 x 10 x 1/4")...and of course that fit the axles right, while trying to keep the height down.

 

[tobyS]

Here are a couple pics with the axles in place and the tongue from donor 105 fit to the frame. It's flush under for reinforcement. Before I get to the point of not being able to change the axle placement, does the weight distribution look too heavy on the tongue?

 

[Jbulach]

Axle placement looks good to me, just as long as the tung will hold up?
What would you estimate your max gross weight of the trailer to be?

 

[tobyS]

The axles are 7,000# each, so I'd say 12,000-14,000. Trailer will weigh about 5500#. The deuce bed fits inside the front frame and the frame corners get cut back to even with the front cross-member (about 1'), then a tongue reinforcement will go on the under-side to strengthen that part of the frame. I'm trying to figure a tongue-box that will add strength too and give a place for the 24 vdc pump. Having the extra length still on the frame, about 1', makes it look tongue heavy to me. I guess it's time to shorten that part, but I left them long to have options with reinforcing the tongue.

All wheels have hydraulic disk brakes, so the donor 105 gives up the air-hydraulic actuator. I might have to rig a larger air tank and break away device...not sure.

 

[Jbulach]

If you add something like a 1/4"x12" plate on top of the tongue the full width of the crossmember, and a front plate welded on for the box that will really help with the oil canning and twisting of that front crossmember.

 

[tobyS]

Yes, that's my thought too. It will go clear to the outer frame. I left 24" for the accessories "box" (the part you refer to will be the bottom).

There is a heavy 5" "H" beam that is scarfed onto the tongue with lots of joint area to weld (a long lap joint). The 3/8" flange on that beam goes under the front cross-member and is welded on the inside. It's not just a butt weld.

The plate you suggest plus bottom member(s)(in a V) from the outer rail will make it strong... no "oil can" in the beam middle.

I'm not sure why the government left so little tongue length on it's trailers, but I bet cramming a lot onto a ship had something to do with it. I like a longer tongue with some extra room when turning and especially backing.

I'd do a similar build with (2) M105 axles using A3 or M1061 wheels if I had a nice 5 ton, 14' or 20' bed. Duels are 1.5" too wide (8'7.5") although I cold narrow the axle. I do like the wide stance, compared to the narrower gen trailer axle.

 

[Jbulach]

You might also want to add some horizontal gussets in the very bottom corner connecting the back of the front crossmember to the main rails...

 

[tobyS]

I think I did that, Jbulach, but on the front. I bought a sheet of 10 ga diamond plate and have built it in a bit. I boxed the bottom in for extra strength and to have a small storage space. This should give a good place for the pump and I still have enough DP for a cover, if frugal.