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Deuce brake problem Help needed.

jluv1185

Member
527
1
18
Location
baton rouge/la
I dont know about deuceaids friend, but my friend used the process per the TM. We still have no clue whats going on... He said he will bleed it again. I think this will be the third time.
 

stumps

Active member
1,700
12
38
Location
Maryland
Assuming that you have all of the bleeder fittings free, and are using a pressure sprayer brake bleeder (as featured here on Steel Soldiers), it shouldn't take you more than 20 minutes to bleed the whole system.

As to what can go wrong? Well, leaks. If you replaced all of the lines, and you used a clamp style of flare tool on NAPA PolyArmour brake lines, you probably have a bunch of misshapen double flares. Unlike the old fashioned tern (tin/lead) coated steel brake lines, the PolyArmour lines have uneven hardness that causes the cheap clamp style double flaring tools to slip off center some of the time. When that happens, you get a leak.

I have found that the only reliable way to put a double flare on the PolyArmour lines is to use one of the hydraulic press tools made by Mastercool.

-Chuck
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
As much as I hate to say it, he might need to pull some drums and look at the brake components. If he has a good peddle, and then none, it is going somewhere! I wonder if one day is enough for it to leak out of the (drum)assembly and show itself?
 

jluv1185

Member
527
1
18
Location
baton rouge/la
If he loses peddle again after he bleeds it we will pull it apart. I just wish we could see something wet so we can have a better idea of the location of the problem.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Leave cardboard under the brake lines he installed, dripping fluid will show as a dark spot(like when Kip "pees" himself from laughing). Pulling the drums will let you see if there is fluid leaking inside the drum assy.
 

stumps

Active member
1,700
12
38
Location
Maryland
If you haven't pulled the drums off and checked all of the brake parts, you really should. There is one style of wheel cylinder spring that seems to just leak... even when the rubber parts, and cylinder look like new. It can take quite a lot of brake fluid to fill the area between the piston and the rubber boot, and to get out of the drum and onto the tire.

-Chuck
 

frodobaggins

Active member
2,861
16
38
Location
Ruston, La
I would check the brake adjustment. Get the tm and a feeler gauge. Mine were a 1/4 off the drum at one point. You can guess how well that works.

Quick test. Pump the brakes a few times. Do they work ? If they do, check the shoe adjustment.
 

m35a2cowner

Member
369
2
16
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Brakes

I second what Mr. Baggins says about brake adjustment. It makes a big difference. Also, I remember reading quite some time ago about lubing the air pack ( I know its a long shot). I put some lubricant (Permatex Jack oil if I remember correctly) in the air pack each year and have not had a problem so far, even though the truck sits around a lot.
 

hellrayzor1

Member
75
3
8
Location
peoria/ Az
Possibly be a bad MC? I have bought rebuilt ones in the past and had em die almost immediately. Poor workmanship happens if you got it from a parts store. Might want to barely crack a easier to get to wheel cylinder or even the airpack bleeder and give the pedal a pump and see if any fluid is pushed thru. Just a thought. Hope you find it quick and something inexpensive :)
 

jollyroger

Member
647
5
18
Location
Centennial, Colorado
The M220 has a filler tube threaded into the top of the MC that uses a fine threaded bolt with a banjo fitting to the vent line. The bolt looks to be 3/8 inch NF thread. The filler bottle in the HF kit threads right into where the bolt does on the M220 MC filler tube. I am sure it can be adapted for use with the M35. The nice feature is the shut off valve on the bottle.

$25.99 at HF Part #92924. Comes with the air operated power suction bleeder and filler bottle.
 

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