Deuce engine repair

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Hi folks, my M756A2 has a squeaky bearing at the top rear of my engine, which I believe is connected to a camshaft up top. Does anyone have experience with the top end of a deuce engine to know if all I have to do to replace the hypothetical bearing all I would need to do is pull the valve cover off, or is it more likely that the head will have to be removed?

 

[davidb56]

There isnt a bearing that would squeak. only sleeve bearings and bushings. the camshaft is in the block, not the heads. So you should find out first what is squeaking. sound transmits everywhere. A likely culprit could even be a transmission input shaft bushing in the flywheel, or a throw out bearing. Most sleeve bearings will knock, rather than squeal. So I'd get some very experience older mechanic to listen to it before tearing down half the engine.

 

[87cr250r]

I recently have experienced a squeak on a new engine that roasted a pushrod immediately during run in. Pull the valve cover(s) and run the engine. Most can do idle without making too much mess.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Thanks, davidb56 and 87cr250r for your replies and good advice. The truck is on a ranch I manage during the warm half of the year, and 25 miles of washboard road to the nearest town, so I am going to have to evaluate the problem myself, while I am aware that sound travels, since I live in the forest the only interfering sound is birds chirping, but, yes, the truck makes so much noise that it can be heard for miles. Nonetheless, the sound sure sounds like it is coming from the top rear of the engine, not transmission, and subsequent oil changes since the squeal showed up I saw a piece of the side of a bearing appear in the drain pan, so there is definitely a bearing fragmenting in the engine. So, taking the valve cover off and idling the engine sounds like a good idea. I'll plan on that when I get back to the ranch after these record snow storms stop and the mountain of snow on the forest service road melts this spring.

 

[WillWagner]

Head gaskets can sound like a squeak but they are normally accompanied by a fluid leak, oil or coolant or both. On the Multi, if the head gaskets are old style, there is a slot in the gasket that exits below the exhaust port for each cylinder. Compression will come out of that slot and could cause your squeak. A tip to get a better pin point area is to slowly pour water around the area of the noise. If it is a head gasket or an air leak, the tone will change or go away until the water goes away. USE CAUTION if you use your hand to find the leak, cylinder gasses are HOT and a pressurized air leak can pierce your skin.

Is the noise constant.......eeeeeeeeeeeeeee, or intermittent.......eeeeeee eeeeeee eeeeeee?

 

[davidb56]

Thanks, davidb56 and 87cr250r for your replies and good advice. The truck is on a ranch I manage during the warm half of the year, and 25 miles of washboard road to the nearest town, so I am going to have to evaluate the problem myself, while I am aware that sound travels, since I live in the forest the only interfering sound is birds chirping, but, yes, the truck makes so much noise that it can be heard for miles. Nonetheless, the sound sure sounds like it is coming from the top rear of the engine, not transmission, and subsequent oil changes since the squeal showed up I saw a piece of the side of a bearing appear in the drain pan, so there is definitely a bearing fragmenting in the engine. So, taking the valve cover off and idling the engine sounds like a good idea. I'll plan on that when I get back to the ranch after these record snow storms stop and the mountain of snow on the forest service road melts this spring.

Metal in the pan is a game changer. you will HAVE to drop the pan after you inspect the valve train. The fact that you state its so loud,(the squeal) I would give the main and rod bearings a look, since you have to drop the pan and completely clean everything for metal.

 

[SCSG-G4]

And if you happen to wind up needing to replace any Poppet Valve Push Rods, contact me.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Thanks, WillWagner, the engine is tight, so no leaks, no oil in the coolant, nor water in the oil.

Thanks, davidb56, dropping the oil pan is reasonable, but I can tell by the fragment of bearing side wall that drained out of the oil pan that it is a small bearing, not a crankshaft bearing. But, dropping the oil pan is a good suggestion. I'll plan on that as my investigation continues after the spring melt, which probably won't happen until after the end of May with all of the atmospheric rivers that have been coming through almost weekly since early December. Right now I bet it looks like the next Ice Age is in progress there.

 

[gimpyrobb]

If you pull the pan, plan on jacking the trucks bumper up a bit. I had a heck of a time getting my pan out till I jacked up the suspension.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

If you pull the pan, plan on jacking the trucks bumper up a bit. I had a heck of a time getting my pan out till I jacked up the suspension.

Thanks for the good suggestion. I was wondering how I would get the pan to clear the front axel.