deuce flat tow question

[wildbilly1760]

When flat towing a m35a2 with another m35a2 are axel clamps better, or are the tow bar feet the best method. Also, what is the optimum distance between the trucks when towing with these styles. I ask this as i am in the market for tow bar feet or axle clamps for a tow bar that I am building as per M16Ty's design. Length of tow bar is what i need next, so I can cut, and start fabbing the ends for attachment to either tow bar feet or the axle clamps. Thanks, Bill

 

[3dAngus]

No, axle clamps are NOT better. You primarily use the axle clamps for wheels up towing, where a wrecker lifts the front of your vehicle. You then hook the towbar up to the axles, with the axle clamps, being careful to gently cut the clamps holding on the brake line along the axle, and moving the clamps under the line to prevent damage and loss of brakes later.

If an emergency of sorts, and you have to dead tow from the axles using the axle feet, the max tow speed under any condition should be no greater than 25mph.

Definitely go with the towbar feet on the bumper. Good luck, and show pics when done.

p.s. Use the shortest distance for the towbar, based on the Hunter towbar. Use the distance extended as necessary for the axle tow. Someone can measure the Hunter towbar length for you in the minimum length position. It is adjustable and you are better protected in the short lenght with greater towing capacity and safety. It's somewhere around 5 feet or so. Look at some of the pics in the classified on a pallet and until you get a more refined answer, you can guesstimate based on a 48" pallet.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Even if you use the axle clamps, you still need the feet to go from the bar to the axle clamp.

 

[Westech]

I am building as per M16Ty's design.

For the love of GOD! Spend the 300 bucks and buy a Military Tow bar. I have seen other members work and I just want to stay inside far far away from them. You do know if your home made toy brakes you are 100% responsible for anything that "happens". No insurance company in the world will cover anything if they find out its home made.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Just so you know, the flatter the better. What I mean is, the tow bar should be parallel to the ground. If at all, you might want it to be a tad higher on the towed truck than the towing truck, so when you brake to stop the trucks, weight is transfered to the rear tires of the truck doing the towing. Clear as mud?

 

[Barrman]

I have used both to flat tow a M35. Use the military tow bar hooked to the miltary mounts. The system was designed to be used and abused by people who don't care what damage they do. Amazingly enough, using the miltary parts is very easy, simple and it works.

I used the axle wraps once because the shackle mounts had been removed from a winch truck and there wasn't a winch or a bumper to keep the frame extensions from moving around. The axle wraps are a pain to hook up, can work themselves loose and as Chris pointed out. Make the angle severe and the wrong way.

I had to use the wraps to pull a grain truck a few years ago and had the same problems then too. Stopping every 50 miles to tighten them up, poor braking and not as good road control.

Use the system proven to work.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Sorry I missed the length question. 6ft-8ft.

 

[wildbilly1760]

awesome answers. Everyone. Cleared things up alot. The reason I ask btween axle clamps and feet was that they both seem to be about the same price. I didnt know that you would still need the feet for the axle clamp to work. I have only been fortunate enough to see a few tow bars in person over the last year so I didnt have a clue how that settup worked. I have confidence in my fabrication skills. but.. When I can afford a real military one I would like to buy one or trade for one. I am amassing my military surplus gear and truck parts trade goods. anyone have a tow bar or feet they want to trade.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Someone said the tech manuals is down. If it isn't, we have the tow bar TM in the resources section. Good info there.

 

[Barrman]

The axle clamp just gives the tow bar the exact same pin hole to hook onto that it would with the bumper mounted shackle mounts. Same angle and size.

That pin lets the tow bar go up and down.

The pin that the feet attach to the tow bar with let the tow bar go side to side. The tow bar has to have movement in both directions to work.

Yes, you can build a fixed V tow bar and eliminate the side to side movement. However, that fixed tow bar will only be good for pulling M35 trucks or whatever you make it fit the first time. Why re invent the wheel when hundreds of working examples with tech manuals about how to use them are floating around?

 

[Heavysteven]

Just a random thought: I remember a while back there was a modification you could make to the air pack to allow the truck being towed to have brakes.

 

[Darwin T]

Just a random thought: I remember a while back there was a modification you could make to the air pack to allow the truck being towed to have brakes.

that would be awsome, i think you would need to tie into the rear trailer brake air line and put a gladhand connection on the front of the truck being towed. so when the front truck hits the brakes the trailer gladhand fires and the pressure hits the rear truck. sound easy when i type it, looks hard when i am starring at the truck.

 

[Barrman]

Stretch is the one that had a thread about it. Pretty much you just pull the J pipe off the rear vehicles airpack and plug in air from the drivers side glad hand of the front truck. It works great.

Running a wire from the front truck trailer plug to the rear truck trailer plug and unscrewing the blinker arm plug in the cab will make the lights of the front truck control the lights on the rear truck. Running lights, blinkers and brake lights all work with no extra lights strapped on. Just be sure and put the rear trucks 3 lever to Off on the top lever and Park Lights on the bottom left lever.

The short air pack and the long air pack take different size fittings to hook onto. I seem to always bring the wrong size when I go to do this long distance from the house. Just something else to keep in mind.

 

[Blackmagic94]

What about flat towing on a mil bar to a 1 ton comm truck pulling the deuce. What do you do about the steering?

 

[73m819]

What about flat towing on a mil bar to a 1 ton comm truck pulling the deuce. What do you do about the steering?

a 1 ton may be to light to pull a deuce and be able to STOP, also will most likly push/pull the 1 ton in curves

 

[Barrman]

You can move a M35 with a 1 ton truck. However, you max safe speed could just be in the 20-25 range. I flat towed my M35 Gasser behind the M715 back in 2007. I had all my tools and a pair of M715 engines/tranmissions in the bed of the M715. Max speed for flat ground was 27 mph. Above that the M35 would start to decide which direction we were going to go and we went that way. Curves and down hill max speed was 23 mph. Very high pucker factor trip. I would not recommend it.

A modern dual rear wheel 1 ton might let you get up near 40 or so. Still not very safe.

 

[Blackmagic94]

So there is no way to lock out the steering to make it a big trailer, if you had someone steer the M35 would that increase the speed? Im thinking im still best just driving it back from CA with the 1 ton following for support.

 

[73m819]

So there is no way to lock out the steering to make it a big trailer, if you had someone steer the M35 would that increase the speed? Im thinking im still best just driving it back from CA with the 1 ton following for support.

this would be a lot safer, the 1 ton is just to light a truck to pull/stop a deuce for any distance

 

[ODdave]

So there is no way to lock out the steering to make it a big trailer, if you had someone steer the M35 would that increase the speed? Im thinking im still best just driving it back from CA with the 1 ton following for support.

THE TRUCK WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO TURN. The front wheels need to be able to turn otherwise things break. I.E.- your tow bar or your 1-ton.......

 

[phil2968]

THE TRUCK WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO TURN. ......

Not quite true, you will be able to turn just don't try any sharp ones. From my experience tying the steering wheel to limit travel will reduce the chances of towed wheels pointing the wrong direction when making a turn. Some wheel dragging will result on a sharp turn but is a better option than being dragged to a halt by wheels turned the wrong direction, ask me how I know! If you plan on towing a deuce, please find a deuce or a 5 ton to tow it with! You can tie the brakes together very easily. Did you win a new deuce? I hope you get it home with no problems!