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Deuce Floor Insulation

Woodsplinter

Member
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Location
Phoenix/AZ
Hi everyone!

I'm a new A2 deuce owner and I'm preparing to insulate the floor and cab of my truck. Not sure what product I'm going to use yet but I was wondering if it's necessary to leave the access panels on top of the transmission, well, "accessible"?

Do you veteran owners ever find it necessary to open these up? I've seen a lot of pics posted on SS where owners have covered the entire floor with a "peel & stick" product of one brand or another. I was just wondering if it might ever become necessary to cut the floor open to access the panel.

Any input will be greatly appreciated! :)

Mark
 

islandguydon

Well-known member
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Location
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Last edited:

LowTech

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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We also used FatMat. I did the center removable covers while out and left the the edge where the bolts go through un-covered, . . . but NOT on the floor. That I just cut around the bolt holes.
I'm going to cover the FatMat w/ rubber stall mat cut for each piece.
 

Woodsplinter

Member
723
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18
Location
Phoenix/AZ
Thanks guys, that's great info. Your truck looks great Don! Lowtech, thats exactly what I was trying to find out.
Are you guys happy with the noise dampening you get with the FatMat? What do you think of covering that with Durabak or a similar product?
 

nf6x

Feral Engineer
1,630
50
48
Location
Riverside, CA, USA
I have had to take off the transmission covers in some of my trucks before. I recommend keeping them removable.

Good luck! I'm going to watch this thread, too, since I'd like to add noise/thermal insulation to some of my trucks sometime.
 
On the subject of insulation and sound deadening materials, I just recovered a 72 Jeep Kaiser M35A2 W/W and White Multifuel W/whistler Not only did ths truck have a verry nice shift boot, but she has some kind of jute backed, textured rubber material on the firewall inside the cab. Does anyone know if these came like that? From what I can see, the material looks like a factory installation, but I thought I read on here somewhere that they never came with insulation from the factory. Could this truck have been set up for some higher purpose, as it were?
:beer:
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,028
113
Location
London England
Believe or not I covered the floors in lead! then sprayed insulation on the roof door and underside hood. there is carpet insulation on top of the cab floor lead and we can spek without raising voice now in the M54 A2 REO. 5 ton. (camper)
 

DeucesWild11

Active member
1,265
12
38
Location
Putnam County, NY
Make sure you can still get to the hatch for the master cylinder unless you have a remote reservoir.. But I am sure you already know that one..:beer:, I am going to be doing something similar but I am going to try the Lizard Skin product I think. Go over the firewall and such..
 

jerseyjeep2003

New member
224
1
0
Location
Gloucester City NJ
I am getting ready to do the same to the inside of mine. It's just that the Dynamax is soooo expensive. I found something at Home Depot that should work almost as well. They carry rolls of duct insulation made by Frost King, it is 12" wide, 1/8" thick and 15' long. The roll costs under $15 and should do the whole inside. Even though it is not as thick, it should do the trick in cutting back the outside road noise and cab rattles substantially. I'll let ya know after I get it done. It may be another week before I get to do it, as I have another more pressing issue.....loose pinion bearings and leaking seals.
 

Blueduce

Member
425
1
18
Location
Dallas, Tx
I second installing any insulation to allow access to your master. I inspection my master both before and after PMCS.

jersyjeep2003 Please let me know how the install goes with the duct insulation. I had the same idea. Would love some B/A picks if you can. Thanks.
 

islandguydon

Well-known member
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Location
Michigan
Thanks guys, that's great info. Your truck looks great Don! Lowtech, thats exactly what I was trying to find out.
Are you guys happy with the noise dampening you get with the FatMat? What do you think of covering that with Durabak or a similar product?
I have not done the Deuce as of yet but when I do I will leave the transmission cover plate cut to remove and under the removable rubber mat.

I am consternating on the 1028 first then this summer I will do the deuce. Good luck and if I can help out in any way just ask...K

Don
 

LowTech

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
971
151
43
Location
Arizona
Thanks guys, that's great info. Your truck looks great Don! Lowtech, thats exactly what I was trying to find out.
Are you guys happy with the noise dampening you get with the FatMat? What do you think of covering that with Durabak or a similar product?
I don't know the other products.

I do notice a real diff just w/ the amount that we've done (have not yet done the firewall inside and out, under the hood, the side doors next to the hood, or the inside of the doors).
It makes the "empty can" sound go away. We still wear ear plugs/ phones on long trips, but I don't feel like I have to every time I start the truck ( I do in the Draggin').
I think that when I finish the firewall, and under the hood, doors, it will be even quieter. When we add another 1/2" of rubber stall mat on top of the FatMat, both to protect the FatMat and to be even more sound deadening, I think that I will be real happy w/ it.
We did also add a muffler and swapped out the "whistler".
We can spend hours everyday, for days . . . or weeks, when we travel and making it "more quiet" is Elise's main goal. Then I'll get to do mine ;)
 

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goldneagle

Well-known member
4,492
983
113
Location
Slidell, LA
I just got to cover all the walls behind the seat (6 pieces if you include the corners). I installed the 2 side vent walls as well as the firewall and cowl pieces. I got the templets from a member on SS. They are very accurate! The only pieces missing are the floor and center hump. Gonna be installing them tomorrow I hope. I used a a thin aluminum covered insulation roll that ZOUT recommended. THe rolls were not too expensive and are easy to handle. Fire resistant and sound dampening as well. I used that stay on 77 glue where I needed a better hold.

The panels behind the seat did not need any glue. The fit is tight enough to keep them in place.

I will try to post some photos this weekend.
 

Woodsplinter

Member
723
6
18
Location
Phoenix/AZ
Thanks for all the input guys! Right now I'm considering spraying with lizard skin, covering that with a FatMat type product, then topping that with Durabak. I'll make sure to leave all the panels accessible.
What do y'all think? Too much?
I'm also in the process of installing an A/C kit I got from Boyce- pretty funny considering I'm not a mechanic. ( God it gets hot here in Phoenix...)
Will post pics as I slowly progress thru this adventure. Any advice is welcome!
 
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