DEUCE FUEL PUMP RENOVATION

[MILRET45]

After offloading a two-year old full tank of diesel on my recently purchased non-running truck, I've pulled the tank and have it out for cleaning. I'm now left with dealing with the fuel pump that suffers from rust at the upper portion that was not submerged in fuel. I've done an initial wash down in a parts cleaner to remove the soluble rust/fuel on all the surfaces (still some more cleaning required). I still need to do some more disassembly to further clean the lower portion.

I plan to attack the bad stuff with Naval Jelly or something similar as I don't want to return the pump to the tank in this condition. Am I correct in assuming the braided wire connection from the pump motor to the mounting flange cannot be disconnected? Has anyone had to do a clean-up like this?

 

[jwaller]

the only way I got that connector loose was to slice cut it and peal it back to open it up. you could do that and put a clamp back around it once you put it back together. also, make sure you put some screws or safety wire on the inlet screen so it cant fall off.

 

[MILRET45]

Did you break the connector clamp at the top under the fuse housing? Did you have to cut the wire to separate top from bottom or is there a connector buried in the top housing?

 

[jasonjc]

There sould be a nut under the fuse housing and the end of the wire sould have a ring connector.

 

[MILRET45]

AARgjhhj!! I thought I would have my deuce running again this weekend but no luck. Remounted the fuel tank after having it cleaned, reinstalled the fuel pump after some careful Naval Jelley work around and underneath the top.

Dropped the old primary filter, not done before, and it was rust encrusted as expected. Checked the pump output, pumping fuel like crazy. Installed new primary Luberfiner filter.

Moved on to install the secondary filters. Had previously dropped them, cleanned the cannisters etc. On the filter install I found that the rubber gasket provided with Luberfiner filters does not fit the grove in the housing like the originals, gasket is a bit too wide. Forced into the grove nonetheless but the mating surface of the rubber does lay flat. As a result I think there may be air leaks. Which brand filter has a proper gasket fit?

Bled the secondary, good fuel flow.

Broke all the injector lines and followed the bleeding procedure. I have fuel at the injectors so the IP should be o.k. and not the original cause of the shut down (rusty fuel only). Truck still wouild not fire, reran the bleed procedure again still no luck which leads me to believe it's sucking air somewhere.

How strong should the fuel flow be at the injectors when the line is opened. While there was fuel it didn't seem to have a lot of pressure but I was working alone and couildn't actually see the injector while hitting the start button. All things being equal, and no air leaks, how much cranking should be adequate to clear the injector lines? I gave each line two cranks of about 5 seconds per.

 

[devilman96]

JD,

The truck should bleed its self pretty easy, just allowing the intank pump to run for a few minutes should purge the system to the IP, 10-15 seconds of cranking should have you coughing and spuddering at the least. The rest will clear the system in a few seconds with some careful throttling.

Might have to check the IP head with the trash you had but I wouldnt bother till you have proper sealing filter gaskets...

If you need filters check out the ones I carry, they have the right gaskets with them.. http://www.odiron.com/store/index.php?cPath=4_57

 

[WillWagner]

The filters on the engine are pressurized. You won't suck air, you'll have a fuel leak. Are you sure there's fuel at the injectors? It should squirt pretty hard and make a mess. Make sure the shut off linkage on the pump is all the way in. If it's in, try taking the plug out of the center of the pump head. Put a pencil in it and crank the engine. It should move up and down.

 

[MILRET45]

There's definitely fuel at the injectors but not a lot (not enough to qualify as a mess by a long shot). That was my concern. It looks like maybe I'm not getting enough fuel pressure out of the pump. I wonder if enough of the rusty fuel got past the filters to gum up the pump?

 

[WillWagner]

Take the cover off the pump where the shut off cable goes into it. Make sure the lever inside is all the way forward. If it is, do the plug thing in the top of the pump head. If it's stuck, maybe a bit Marvel Mystery Oil will work to un stick it.

 

[cranetruck]

What does the exhaust look like when you are cranking, if any? If there is no exhaust at all, then there is no fuel and proceed as suggested by Will above.

 

[oifvet]

Moved on to install the secondary filters. Had previously dropped them, cleanned the cannisters etc. On the filter install I found that the rubber gasket provided with Luberfiner filters does not fit the grove in the housing like the originals, gasket is a bit too wide. Forced into the grove nonetheless but the mating surface of the rubber does lay flat. As a result I think there may be air leaks. Which brand filter has a proper gasket fit?

I ran into that same problem with the rubber o-rings in the Luberfiner filter package. I called the seller, and they told me, "It should fit!" I don't want should!

My old ones were put back in and are doing fine. Luckily, I didn't booger them up when I dug them out.

Next time, I'll call Mike at OD Iron.

 

[MILRET45]

Roger that, I would have put the old ones back in but unfortunately dumped them when cleaning the cannisters in a parts washer at another location.

Aside from cleaning out my fuel system, I have come full circle back to where I started when I had the first engine shut down before discovering the fuel problem. I had tried before to break loose the nut in the top of the IP head to check the 'pumping' action as suggested but can't get it to budge. I even applied a little torque wrench to it and it wouldn't move. Guess I will have to go at it again with a flex bar and cheater pipe, it's got to let go eventually.

 

[oifvet]

Isn't there a little brass bleeder screw for that?

 

[MILRET45]

This is the center cap screw surrounded by the injector pipes that I had problems removing. Once off it allows for the pencil or something similar, as described above, to be inserted and observed for movement while cranking the engine.

 

[houdel]

Check out the fourth posting in the following thread. Kenny (recovery4x4) gives a pretty good dissertation on cleaning the hydraulic head.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....c&t=4545&sid=6285b417b4b5c103674034788514d0d5

 

[nickd]

There is an article I wrote a few months ago comming out in the next issue of MVM on this subject.

 

[cranetruck]

About tapping a possible stuck fuel plunger....keep in mind that 3 times for every crankshaft rev, the cam is high and tapping the plunger would not be a good idea unless the postion of the cam is known....in other words, check the timing marks on the damper for clues.
Also, when the plug is removed make sure no microscopic particles enter the cavity, it doesen't take much to jam and score the plunger, all the filters are now bypassed.

 

[Rebelpride]

How do you take apart the bottom of the fuel pump that contains the screen and impeller?