Deuce Halogen Headlight Upgrade

[CGarbee]

The connector (Dorman or other manufacturer) is a standard stock item, so you can actually pick them up at your local parts store in the lighting section if you don't order them with the rest of the parts...

 

[Valence]

If you're wondering about the brightness of the HELLA headlights here's some research I did:

I had trouble finding the high-beam lumen output of the 100/90W 24v bulb (Hella P/N "XD24100/90"). But I did find the output for the 75/70W 24V.
Directly from Hella it is 1750 (see document page 14)
http://www.hella.com/hella-za/assets/media_global/HASA_Bulbs_Catalogue_2012_LRes.pdf

Or from 1000bulbs.com:
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/98664/EIKO-01010.html
75/70W is 1900/1205 lumens

Extrapolating that to 1000/90W would be ~2533.33 lumens for the 100w (or ~2333.33 lumens using Hella's rating for the 75/70 as a base)

 

[wheelspinner]

Had the Deuce out for a little R&R last night. I generally avoid night travel at almost all costs, but was late getting home. Realized just how BAD the stock lights really are. Ordered two complete sets for the Deuce and 923. Hopefully they are much better. Great info, although the bulbs went up $5 each since the last order was posted on here.

 

[Valence]

As a comparison, my brother put the following "DOT approved" headlights in his newer Jeep Grand Cherokee:

(no mods, I'm not trying to justify, just attempting to help others make their own, perhaps more informed decisions)

Low beams:
55W Sylvania 9006
Lumens: ~1000
http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-SilverStar-Performance-Halogen-Headlight/dp/B000M5Y720

High Beams:
GTR 9005
Lumens: 3600
http://www.gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-gen-2-all-in-one-9005-led-headlight-bulbs-3-600-lumen-bulbs/

 

[gungearz]

If you guys want the brightest replacement for the 9006 and 9007 bulbs. Phillips H1 and H2 bulbs (usually shipped from Germany), which are 110% dot legal with just a tiny bit of a mod... alls you have to do is "nip" a little off of the plastic tabs on the bulb with a pair of nail clipper...
Put them in my burb a year ago and they are the best I've had yet.. even better than the crappy Sylvania's you get at the parts store...

 

[CGarbee]

Running full tilt in any of my MVs, I can't outdrive my e-code Hella H4 lights with just the "standard" wattage 24volt burners 75/70...
I can easily stop in the area that is illuminated.
This includes the Cummins powered M37 (with the current gearing, it runs 80mph) although it does sport four wheel disc brakes...

I can outrun the stock wattages in the e-code Hella H4 lights in my car...but it goes a lot faster...

 

[Valence]

For anyone who may care here, here's a quick photo diary of my install.

After taking a rock to one head light, I replaced both headlights with He.lla H4 24V 100/90W (HLA-H83140041) bulbs, adapted a Doorman 9003 socket, with rubber shell connectors from Erik's, to fit the stock wiring harness, and then a IPCW CWC-7006 7-inch plain round conversion headlight. I did have to buy longer Philips screws to secure the face of the headlight bucket back down.

----------

I've never had these type of headlights before (the H4s), but, of course, the glass light housing was design perfectly for them, It only goes in one way and firmly keeps the bulb in place.


I sprayed a little bit of silicon on the rubber boot and it slid over the Hella light bub with ease.


As you can see, the glass denotes proper orientation. "TOP"


The only problem I had was that the new glass housing stuck out more than stock, and the stock bucket cover bolts were just too short. I had to replace all 3 bolts on both passenger and driver's side.


I removed about 1/2 of the plastic sheath on the socket cord, added Packard connectors on each wire. I also moved the crimped on wire numbers to the new socket plug.
FYI: I used this thread as a quick pin-out reference for wiring. Just be careful when viewing the pictures. One of the pin-outs is from the socket (plug) perspective, the other is from the H4 light bulb perspective (so they're left/right reversed).
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?34411-H4-Headlight-Conversion


You can also see that these glass bulbs are more flat vs the more round front surface stock ones:


Final appearance:

 

[rustystud]

Zane, I should have warned you to buy a "ceramic" plug-in for the wires. I melted mine after converting to the "Hella" H4 bulbs. I'll try and find the place where I bought mine from.

 

[Valence]

Zane, I should have warned you to buy a "ceramic" plug-in for the wires. I melted mine after converting to the "Hella" H4 bulbs. I'll try and find the place where I bought mine from.

Interesting. Is that just from the bulb getting so hot? I'm having trouble seeing how it'd melt as wouldn't the stock headlight have melted its wires too? It's all a very similar connection setup.

 

[rustystud]

Interesting. Is that just from the bulb getting so hot? I'm having trouble seeing how it'd melt as wouldn't the stock headlight have melted its wires too? It's all a very similar connection setup.

The H4 bulbs produce some very intense heat. That is why you are never to touch the glass of the bulbs with your bare hands. My rubber ends melted right off ! After going to the "ceramic" ends I have had no problems. Sorry I haven't looked for the ceramic ends yet.

 

[Valence]

The H4 bulbs produce some very intense heat. That is why you are never to touch the glass of the bulbs with your bare hands. My rubber ends melted right off ! After going to the "ceramic" ends I have had no problems. Sorry I haven't looked for the ceramic ends yet.

Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Wiring-Headlight-Harness-Sockets/dp/B0097AA478

 

[andy3]

If the 100W bible are drawing enough wattage to melt the ends, are you running too close to the capacity of a 40 year old wireing harness? 8.3amps?

 

[rustystud]

Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Wiring-Headlight-Harness-Sockets/dp/B0097AA478

Yes. That's the one !

 

[rustystud]

If the 100W bible are drawing enough wattage to melt the ends, are you running too close to the capacity of a 40 year old wireing harness? 8.3amps?

No, the bulbs themselves run very hot. Like I said before there is a reason you are NOT suppose to touch the glass with your bare hands. The oil in your skin will heat up and burst the glass. If you don't believe me then take the bulb out of the lens and hold it with the lights on. You won't be holding it long !
There is a reason they make ceramic ends for the bulbs.

 

[jbayer]

There are others out there also, with or without wires.
Saw some with 16 ga. and some with 14 ga wire.

Here's one
http://www.hipoparts.com/ceramic-female-h4-headlight-socket-kit-w-terminals-for-7-round-lamps/

Here's another
http://store.candlepower.com/cesohb90be.html

 

[rustystud]

There are others out there also, with or without wires.
Saw some with 16 ga. and some with 14 ga wire.

Here's one
http://www.hipoparts.com/ceramic-female-h4-headlight-socket-kit-w-terminals-for-7-round-lamps/

Here's another
http://store.candlepower.com/cesohb90be.html

I wish I had seen that first one you found from hipo parts "jbayer" . Instead I had to splice the wires into my system. I think I might redo it and use these other ones you found.

 

[bj1104]

I am in the process of upgrading my A3 to hid lights. Is a little more work than I originally anticipated. I purchased my HID's from xenonpro.com (lifetime warranty on all parts). I bought ceramic H4 sockets, a HID wiring for making an extension, 24v relays to power the HID's with 12v, and a set of 7" bulbs. It's still a work in process and will post pics when I get it finished.