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deuce hub flip

Trango

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yes to both. I'm not sure if there's room for the front drums after flip, though. You'd also need to think about wheel location.
 

G744

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Nah, you can't do the front the same way as the brake drum plate is different than the rears in terms of spacing. Only on the front are they held together via the back of the wheel studs, rather than the 8 bolts around the hub.

The hub itself is the same anywhere on the truck. This all goes for either the 5-ton or the Reo duece.

dg
 

OPCOM

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I think that's a bad idea but it's your truck. M35 brakes are finicky enough and when a vehicle stops, a large load is carried by the front brakes. Myabe ok for putting around the farm, but I wouldn't chance it on the road at speed.
 

rizzo

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TXSG_19_commo said:
I think that's a bad idea but it's your truck. M35 brakes are finicky enough and when a vehicle stops, a large load is carried by the front brakes. Myabe ok for putting around the farm, but I wouldn't chance it on the road at speed.
I agree. two of the trucks we are putting the 46's on is a yard truck. one is a M35 the other is a GMC with dual tires. M??

can we flip the front hubs on the GMC too?
 

houdel

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I disagree. The front and rear hubs are the same part number. If you can flip the rears, you SHOULD be able to flip the fronts also. Don't know why you would want to do so, don't know what effect it would have on the front brakes, probably none, but it is physically possible. Don't know your intended purpose, but I think it will work, only advantage I can see is to widen the front track. I'm guessing (only a guess), that the front brakes would still work. Check the -34P TMs, the front and rear hubs are the same part number.
 

jasonjc

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The gmc is a M211 if its a cargo. And no hub fliping on GMC.
Why flip the fronts???just whondering. And it mite help someone tell if what you planing is feesable or not.
 

rizzo

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just trying to get around making custom wheels up front. we are going to put the 46" tires on the back on stock rims dished out. I we flip the front hubs and dish out the wheels all the tires will be in the same track. these are yard trucks. the one is only used at mud bogs for recovery
 

Trango

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You couldn't pay me enough to ride in a deuce without front brakes.

That said, why not just build custom rims? It's easy enough. Heck, I'll sell you stock 2 deuce centers for $40+shipping when I pull them off my buggy. :)
 

G744

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I guess some folks don't realize the front hubs on a M35 duece are ALREADY "flipped" out. All you can do is make it narrower and as already said, have no brakes anymore.

Sorry Houdel, pull one apart and you will see what I mean.

dg
 

rizzo

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Trango said:
You couldn't pay me enough to ride in a deuce without front brakes.

That said, why not just build custom rims? It's easy enough. Heck, I'll sell you stock 2 deuce centers for $40+shipping when I pull them off my buggy. :)

rizzo said:
just trying to get around making custom wheels up front.....these are yard trucks. the one is only used at mud bogs for recovery
you must be the type of guy that puts his seat belt on to move the car to the other side of the driveway. or you live in the mountains

I live in michigan. no mountains here.

I'm building custom rims for the trucks that will be driven on the road.
 

houdel

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dg - Of course you are right, I meant only that it was POSSIBLE, not that it was PRACTICAL to do so. As so many others on this post mentioned, you would narrow the front track width, but a the expense of having to remove the front brakes and drums. And would the wheels even fit between the wheelwells without rubbing, unless they were dish-out, even pointed straight ahead? Guess I don't fully understand what rizzo has in mind.
 

rizzo

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houdel said:
Guess I don't fully understand what rizzo has in mind.
the 46 inch tires have a 14 inch wide tread pattern. if I put them on the front stock rim they will rub on the drag link. so that means they have to be moved away from the frame. the only way to move the tire away from the frame is with a M135 rim or custom rims or dish out the stock rims.

1--the M135 rim moves it out about an inch. I don't think this is gonna be enough.

2--Custom rims are expensive and I am trying to avoid that on the yard trucks. (We are putting these tires on 4 trucks)

3--if you dish out the stock rims the tire will stick way out away from the truck and not be in line with the rear tires, unless you flip the rims.

I think maybe that people don't understand that the 46 inch tire is a super single. I measured the stock tread pattern of the 900-20 NDCC to be 8 inches wide. The 46 is 14inches wide. very close to being double the width.

in the pic below all the tires are 46's except the back row. those are 52's. (that is Eugene in the pic not me)


am I missing anything? does anyone see any other options other than the three I outlined?
 

gringeltaube

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rizzo said:
2--Custom rims are expensive and I am trying to avoid that...

am I missing anything? does anyone see any other options..
If I had easy access to good used 46" Michelins I would consider building custom wheels starting from cheap M35 wheels. I guess every machine shop/good welder could do either of the following options without charging a fortune. For the 15" wide tires I would prefer 12" wide rims and keep the std. 10.5" backspace, with the rear hubs flipped. The stock 7.5" rims are far to narrow for these tires.
BTW, are those tires Tl or TT or both?

Gerhard
 

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mudguppy

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YES - you CAN flip the hubs on the front. i have two front axles that i have done this too.

NO - you CANNOT retain the front brakes. you will have to go w/ a pinion disc brake. i don't believe that there will even be room to get discs on a flipped front, i could be wrong about that.

here's the thing: when you flip the front hubs, it will interfere with the spindle studs/bolts that bolt the spindle onto the knuckle. to make room for this, you must machine the inside of the hub (the old "outside") about 3/4" thinner. i had to take 0.760" off mine. that basically cut the hub flange thickness into almost half. then you still have to grind the spindle studs down to almost the nuts to get the hubs to clear w/ the lugs in them. the only remaining issue will be the ~3/8" of lug shoulder that now sticks through on the wheel side. i don't know if this will be a problem as i still don't have wheels for my 395s yet. if they won't work and i can't find shorter shouldered lugs, i'll have to trim off some shoulder and cut more thread.

nothing about it is hard. you just have to have access to a lathe is all. i guess you could do it w/ a mill but it'd take forever. it took about 25 min per hub on the lathe.

disclaimer: i have done this for my bronco project. i feel that if with the amount of material i had to cut off the hub flanges, i would not do this mod on anything larger than a light truck. granted there is still about 0.800" of flange left which is a bunch, but a medium sized truck is too much for me to feel comfortable about. and, w/ a truck that big, i wouldn't trust a pinion brake to stop that kind of weight. i guess i'm saying i wouldn't do that on a duece, even if it did fit.
 
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