Deuce inner tube removal question

[Iski]

Hello, I wanted to experience the thrill of putting new rubber on Deuce 20 inch split rims.
I removed the stem valve, used a hydraulic jack with a 2x6’s under the frame and on the tire to start to break the bead. After this I used two tire spoons to break the bead all the way around the rim. I was surprised at how easy it is to get the rubber loose.

Getting the valve stem to clear the stem slot for removal is puzzling me. This is a 1965 good year tire. The inner tube looks like it has the inner rim flap and tube as one piece. I can push with my hands and get the stem within a ¼ inch of the end of the slot. I am afraid to push harder on the stem as it is part of the tube.

I will need to look again when it is light out as I thought that the flap and the tube were separate. I thought that with the stem valve out I could just push the stem in. Perhaps it has glued itself over the years.

Is there a trick to getting the tube apart from the rim. I could use more force or pry bars but as I am in no hurry I figured I would sleep on this.

Thanks
Iski

 

[Sephirothq]

Give me a call and my dad can walk you though it.

 

[Captaincarrier]

Be very careful with split rims, the first job I had was to replace the guy before me. He was putting the tire back on the inside of a trailer axle when the rim separated, killing him.

 

[NDT]

Poke the stem through the slot with a wooden dowel. The tube and flap are stuck together in your case, no big deal.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Captain, these are NOT split rims, they are lock ring. Both require respect, but these are a safer design.

 

[rosco]

The tube and flap are seperate. They often get stuck together (even the tube can get glued/stuck into the tire carcus, to where you loose your fingernails, trying to pull it out).. When you get the tire off the wheel, you can get an edge for the flap, and tear them apart. Be careful of the valve stem, that you don't bugger the very end, so that you can't re-use it. If I am having problems with it, sometimes it helps protect it, if you screw a smooth metal valve cap on it, for protection. Its a little hard to describe.. you just do what you have to, but getting the valve stem more room, you pick up that side of the tire, letting the wheel slid downward just a little, & push the stem out, at the same time. You do have both sides of the tire bead, broke loose from the wheel, don't you? I break the back side loose first, so when you turn it over, your ready to drop the wheel out, as soon as its loose. If it tries to settle back in place, put two 2x4 blocks, @ 180* from each other, under the tire, to hold it up some, while you get the ring broke loose. You will find what works for you, and develope your own techniques. If you get the tools, its not that bad, and and you can often get a better job out of it. Fixing a half dozen tires, will pay for the tools. Be Careful!

 

[Iski]

I'll retry it in the morning. If the stem was a half an inch shorter this would be easy. I'm going to see If I can get the stem to separate from the flap first. I'm not too worried about the stem on this one as it is a very old tire and the tube is going to be used as a flotation device after this.

Thanks

 

[rosco]

The flap stuck to the tube, is most of your problem. Sounds like your trying to push the stem back, tube and flap too. The flap is pretty stiff there.

 

[Captaincarrier]

The rim that gave way and killed the mechanic had the ring that sets under the bead. We experienced a few close calls and always had a pucker factor to deal with. Most of the times we would place the tire ring down under a semi an inflate them there. Cycling the air pressure and applying repeated blows with a heavy hammer to assure the ring was in place. So maybe split rim was the wrong reference in this case.

 

[Iski]

I was told to wrap two 3/8 inch chains with a chain lock hook from the center out around the ring one either side. Then use a locking air hose so one can be on the other side of the truck or behind a large tree when airing up.Thanks

 

[Iski]

These are 1965 gum dipped 9.00R20 Firestone NDCC’s. The flap and the tube look like they have welded together over time. The flap to tube seam is almost non-existent as if rubber cement had been used. Even with the tube/flap combination out, the tube won’t come free without ripping the flap.

In the end I cut a 1 foot long piece of 1 inch angle iron so that about an inch and a half fit in the stem slot. I used a file to notch near the end so it would hook into the stem slot, and to dress the sharp edges. Then I put a chrome stem cap on, greased the V-grove, and pushed the stem down the slot with an oak dowel.

Once I made the tool, it only took seconds. I started by pushing the stem in, and then used the dowel to get the last half an inch. I can see that if the tube would release from the flap that this would not have been an issue.

Thanks again.

 

[Iski]

I separated the tube and the flap. On one side the flap had just stuck to the tube by itself. On the other side the flap had a ¼ inch bead of what looks like blue adhesive. Working around slowly, the flap and tube did come apart.

 

[m-35tom]

Captain, these are NOT split rims, they are lock ring. Both require respect, but these are a safer design.

chris, i have never seen a truck wheel with a lock ring. what i would call a lock ring wheel has 3 pieces and no splits anywhere and yes they are much safer in that they almost cannot blow apart. the split ring wheel relies on the ring being caught under a slightly tapered groove and if there is no rust and the ring is perfect and not bent at all if you are careful they probably will not blow off. rust is the real problem, there should be almost no gap between the ring and the wheel. and you should still use a cage.

 

[SCSG-G4]

My opinion is that ANY truck tire should be inflated in a cage, even on a single piece rim. They are a whole different animal than car tires and must be respected.

 

[ducer]

Car tires will still kill you.

Denny