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Deuce is not working with me!!!

wb1895

Member
876
17
18
Location
Lexington NC
I would add a halogen light on top or below you fuel tank as well, to try and heat up that thick oil.

Right now I am running about 30 gallons of WMO to 20 gallons of gasoline, and she loves it. I would start cutting the oil with some gas during the winter and leave the 100% oil for those hot summer months.
 

airmech3839

Member
841
5
18
Location
Augusta, GA
Thanks again to all. I had left the lamps on the block area under the hood for a couple of hours and had the intake pipe on the turbo very warm to the touch and the IP and secondary filters were warm as well. I drained about 35gal from the tank and put in about 10 gal of gasoline. It was a long walk to the gas station carrying 2 5gal cans... Did not want to go twice as far for the diesel... I now have a lamp under the tank. I tried turning it over a little to try and move the fuel. It did not start. One of my batts is low and I am top charging it now. Might try in about 2 hours and see if it will work. May pressurize tank again first and bleed some of the oil out of the lines... Thanks again for all the input.

If I had known last week that the weather was gonna be as bad as it is I would have thinned it up sooner. However I usually dont have trouble getting it to crank with WMO even when it is cold. But now that the pump in the tank has stopped working it has made it very hard. I understand that the WMO being thick puts extra strain on the pump and is most likely the reason it went out. I am not a total idiot and understand how temprature affects fluids. I am just looking for suggestions on any thoughts that might help me in this situation. I appreciate all the info in this thread. It has been helpful. Yes a lesson is learned. As with all situations you can figure out how to do things again differently. I hope all here understand that.
 

EMD567

Driver for the Ga Mafia
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,117
47
48
Location
Aiken SC
If my lower radiator hose wasn't leaking so bad, I would bring the 814 over, and give you a 24 volt jump start. If you are still down on Friday, and UPS delivers my hose, maybe I can come over and help you get her started. I have ether( had to use it on the 5 ton until I got the good batteries) Now she fires right up with only muttered incantations instead of out right swear words. :mrgreen:
 

Flyingvan911

Well-known member
4,709
158
63
Location
Kansas City, MO
I am running straight diesel and use a 1 second shot of starting fluid in the mushroom. I walk around and my deuce starts with about 3 to 5 seconds of cranking.
 

197thhhc

Active member
1,067
15
38
Location
Williamsburg, OHIO
I lived on Columbus, Ga for 3 years and can understand why thinning your WMO would'nt be at the top of your list. The weather you guys are having isn't very common down there. I think ether and thinned fuel with gasoline will do the trick. I just have one suggestion. Down the road this spring, summer whatever, you may want to think about a block heater. That way if you get caught with a full tank of thick oil in a cold snap you can just plug the heater in and warm the engine. [thumbzup]
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,177
113
Location
NY
I am running straight diesel and use a 1 second shot of starting fluid in the mushroom. I walk around and my deuce starts with about 3 to 5 seconds of cranking.

As I said in post#18. NEVER spray ether into an engine that is not cranking.

Proper use of ether based Starting fluids can be helpful and safe for you and your engine. Improper use can be deadly and damaging to your equipment.

I don't care if you have done it wrong hundreds of times with no bad effects, your still using it wrong and worse, your advising others to use it wrong.

Read the instructions on the can, do some research. Be safe.

btw, never use it on a hot/been running engine either.
 

Stretch44875

Super Jr. Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,960
30
48
Location
Tiro, Ohio
Biggest thing is starting rpm for a cold diesel. Take the batteries in the house and charge both fully, makes a big difference. I run WMO year round, down to 0 degrees. Usually thin it with some gas in the winter.
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,807
736
113
Location
Liberty Hill, SC
Ditto on the spin. If it isn't cranking at a high enough RPM, it isn't going to fire. One thing you could try, is jump one car to one battery in the deuce, and another car/truck to the other battery. Just make sure the two cars aren't touching! I wish we had a picture of when we got EMD's 814 started. Pickup jumped to one battery, two deuce batteries in the bed of the truck jumped to the 814, we had cables everywhere! Those 250s can be awefully cold blooded! I finally found the air leak on mine, and now she fires right up, takes a little more cranking when cold but still WAY faster than before.
 

airmech3839

Member
841
5
18
Location
Augusta, GA
I have tried twice more to get her to run. Plenty of rpm cause I have full batteries. I had both batts on charge for 24 hrs. I am beginning to think that the cutoff may be the problem as she is not responding to the thinned fuel. Not even a sputter. Is it possible that with the cutoff rod on the ip being fully in would something inside still cause a no start? Just trying to think of any other reason it wouldn't start!
 

airmech3839

Member
841
5
18
Location
Augusta, GA
I pulled the cover off the ip cutoff. Everything moves freely. I moved the small lever and it moved freely and returned to the original position. I have had a hydraulic head leak for awhile is it possible it finally went out? Could I loosen a line at the injector and try cranking to see if I get fuel out?

The hydraulic head was leaking from the center of the head at the plug.
 

airmech3839

Member
841
5
18
Location
Augusta, GA
I pulled the cover off the ip cutoff. Everything moves freely. I moved the small lever and it moved freely and returned to the original position. I have had a hydraulic head leak for awhile is it possible it finally went out? Could I loosen a line at the injector and try cranking to see if I get fuel out?

The hydraulic head was leaking from the center of the head at the plug.
 

dittle

Well-known member
1,582
72
48
Location
Albia, IA
If your intank pump isn't working then its possible you're filters are empty as well. Check them first, if empty fill them with (preferrably diesel) fuel.
 

airmech3839

Member
841
5
18
Location
Augusta, GA
Well took #5 injector line loose at injector and cranked.... Nothing.... So I loosened it all the way and nothing! So it appears I have an ip problem! Does anyone know the best way to trouble shoot the hydro head and pump itself?
 

airmech3839

Member
841
5
18
Location
Augusta, GA
If your intank pump isn't working then its possible you're filters are empty as well. Check them first, if empty fill them with (preferrably diesel) fuel.
Well I have pressurized the fuel tank with shop air and opened the blessed on secondary till I got good fuel out. So I am sure the bowls are full. I also filled them with gas when I changed them on Sunday.
 

airmech3839

Member
841
5
18
Location
Augusta, GA
Any suggestions on elliminating the hydraulic head verses the pump as being my problem? Or would it be best to just replace the hydraulic head and hope that is what the problem is and if it still doesnt fix it to replace the pump itself??
 
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