Daveks63. Remove the POSITIVE supply cable that goes to the starter motor.
leave it OFF and away from the battery +
Use a SMALL (ish) "sacrificial" wire and take that to (TO BUT NOT CONNECTED to the Positive + of the supply battery ok?) so it goes to the (same) power input side of where the orriginal Huge cable Came from the positive side of the correct battery supply TO the starter motor is attatched.
Make SURE EVERYTHING is switched off.
You will connect the "sacrificial" cable to the starter input FIRST.
The sacrificial cable will then come from the STARTER input up to the battery + DO NOT CONNECT OR FLASH IT>
PUT IT TO A 10 AMP FUSE (and holder obviously)
take another smallish ordinary "car type" light cable FROM the other side of the 10 AMP FUSE (holder)
And connect that VIA ANY HANDY Little "flick/push/or click Switch.
Make sure the switch is OFF.
Connect the wire from the switch to the positive now,
Flick/push or deppress your switch.
IF NO BLOWN FUSE OK GOOD.
Now ONLY load the fuse with perhaps SIDE lights selected OR turn on the ignition Only (to run the intank pump ONLY.
LIGHTS lite? no "blow"? OR Pump RUNS "no Blow"?
Ok good. remove the lot. and TRACE the ORRIGINAL MASTER CABLE (especiallY) where it may go thro' the hole in the chassis,(or the clip that bolts it to same)
(as you now know that particular circuit is "GROUNDING" somewhere.
As mentioned WEAR SAFETY GLASSES or GOGGLES> AND GLOVES. arround (any) batteries you are to work on. let us know how you get on.
10 AMP fuse BLOWS! check the "STARTER SOLANOID" This is USUALLY the/ a culprit
