Deuce Non-Start

[MILRET45]

Since acquiring my truck nearly two months it has proven to be a 'one touch to the starter button' process to crank. The truck is stored about 180 miles from my house so I can only get to it on weekends. A week ago I cranked it and let it run for a bit with no problems and did the normal shut down leaving the shut down cable pulled out.

Upon returning Sunday I attempted to restart and had no success and assume a fuel delivery problem and probably an issue with the shut down cable but did not have time to do any troubleshooting. My question is how finicky is the shut down cable? Are there any specific adjustments? Beyond the shut down cable what wouild be the next most logical problem?

I've begun wading through the TM's but haven't found info yet on the cable.

 

[WillWagner]

The cable hooks to a rod , if you will, that pulls out when the cable is pulled. Make sure the rod is pushed all the way in, if it is, remove the two screws that hold the cover for that rod on and push the little pin that's in there toward the front of the engine.

 

[cranetruck]

I go along with Will's explanation. The shut-off lever may stick after sitting in the off position for some time, it's normally returned to "start" position by spring action.
When cranking and you have absolutely no smoke out of the exhaust then there is no fuel available.
Like Will said, remove the cover on the side of the Injection Pump and move the lever back and forth until it returns to start position smoothly.
The multifuel engine in the 8x8 has a solenoid operated shut off mechanism and is never in the off position for more than a few seconds. IMHO, unless you are afraid the truck may be push started by accident, just leave it in the start position....

 

[ken]

I agree with leaving the cable in. If you leave it out there is that much more bare metal to rust. That will help it stick in the out position.

 

[MILRET45]

Thanks, I'll check it out over the long holiday weekend upcoming. I can't imagine that too much changed one week to the next to cut off fuel other than what you guys have described.

Finally got my SF97 in so I looking forward to tagging the truck so I can get some legal road time.

 

[MILRET45]

Finally weather, time and distance allowed me to get back to the truck today. I have verified that the fuel pump is good, fuel shut off rod is in all the way. Today I pulled the cover where the fuel shut off rod is located and determined that there appeared to be no problem with the lever action under the cover. Still no start and just a bit of white smoke at the stack during cranking attempt.

If anyone has another possible lead I'd appreciate it. Here's a brief recap of the operational history since purchase.

1. Truck arrived with dead batteires and a full tank of diesel that might be about 24 months old.
2. Mounted new batteries, truck fired and ran with first push on the starter button.
3. Over the next couple weekends ran about 8-10 miles at highway speed and completed 3-4 stationary starts and idle. Every start was clean on the first hit of the starter button and the engine appeared to be an excellent runner, good power.
4. Fuel filters have not been replaced that was on the agenda the weekend of the no-start.
5. Last time it ran was a stationary start, no problems. Exactly one week later returned and encountered the no start routine.

Could this be something as simple as the old filters blocking full fuel delivery? The times it did run might have agitated some crap in the fuel system. I can't see what else could have changed in one weeks time from run to no run. I intend to change the filters but need to tow the truck up into an area where I can work on it.

 

[bottleworks]

Check out this thread. It might help.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=4545&highlight=injection+pump

 

[m-35tom]

put a 0 - 80 gauge in the bleeder on top of the final filter, you have to have some pressure there for it to start. 20 psi would be normal when cranking. if you have that pressure, loosen several lines at the injectors and crank to see if it is trying to inject fuel. if it is not trying at all you have a problem before the ip head, if it is trying it still might not be enough pressure to inject as it takes about 2000 psi. this could be because of a worn ip head, use some ether and see if it will start and continue to run over 1000 rpm. if it will but will not idle the ip head is worn out. the wear difference between running and not running can happen in just a couple of minutes.the whole system is amazingly simple, just a pump plumger that also rotates and acts as a distribution valve.

 

[sprucemt]

Has it been cold enough for the fuel to gel or wax up?

 

[MILRET45]

In answer to the last question, no the weather down here rarely gets that cold and thus far hasn't been lower that mid 40's one or two nights since the run/ no run time frame. This weekend only access to the truck has been a distraction. I'm going to run Doyle's checks on the IP next trip down. Thanks for the thread on that.

I've done a number of pump replacements on 6.2's but they were always preceded by some degradation in engine performance. That's why this one catches me off guard going from good runner to no runner over night, so to speak.

 

[MILRET45]

Hopefully my long delayed process of getting my Deuce back in operation is nearing an end. Thanks for all the help, especially to David Doyle. It looks like the problem was simply clogged filters due to rusty sludge in solution in the fuel completely shutting the fuel flow down. I had incorrectly assumed that since the truck was full tank on pickup there would be no problems in the tank.

With a 12V pump from Northern Tool I was able to quickly offload all the fuel into a 55 gallon drum where it will be recycled for south Texas brush killing mixed with an appropriate herbicide. I removed the empty tank this weekend and after pulling the pump and fuel level assembly will have it chemically cleaned. Old filters are off the truck and cannisters cleaned.

The question now is what the best procedure is to purge the lines between the tank and the filter head assemblies to get any remaining crap out of the system?

 

[Big Mike's Motor Pool]

you could un hook the main line to the primary filter and turn on the intank pump and squirt it into a bucket. the line between the primary filter and the injection pump comes off pretty easy. as for the rest of it, i would run it and see what happens. if you insist you could pull all injectors and lines but that looks like alot of work.

 

[Capt.Marion]

perhaps blow it out with compressed air?

 

[MILRET45]

Completed all my fuel filter replacements after having my fuel tank cleaned on my once running truck. Bled out everything but haven't been able to get fuel through to the injectors. I finally was able to get the center cap off the IP head and did the pencil in the hole routine and it appears there is no plunger movement although a copious amount of fuel pumped out the center hole when I cranked it over.

I have acquired a take off pump that has a United Technologies 90100A hydraulic head on it. I pulled the center cap and observed the plunger movement while turning the pump by hand. Plunger moves up and cown and rotates smoothly so I'm thinking it's time to swap heads. Two questions arise,

1. Can the hydraulic head be pulled with the pump in the truck. Looks like clearance to the bottom of the oil filter housings might be an issue.
2. I'm not seeing the 'arrow' described for alignment of the red marked gear tooth before pulling the head. If the side of the head pointing toward the driver side fender were described as a 6 o'clock position the arrow would be at what point of the clock?

 

[cranetruck]

......
1. Can the hydraulic head be pulled with the pump in the truck. Looks like clearance to the bottom of the oil filter housings might be an issue.
2. I'm not seeing the 'arrow' described for alignment of the red marked gear tooth before pulling the head. If the side of the head pointing toward the driver side fender were described as a 6 o'clock position the arrow would be at what point of the clock?

Yes, it can easily be pulled.

The Arrow and marked tooth must line up as shown in image below before the head can be pulled up.
Note: Do not turn the engine over after head is pulled, that would upset the timing.

Replace the plug in the head as soon as possible to reduce chances of dirt entry.

 

[MILRET45]

Deuce Non-Start (it lives again)

Well thanks to all the information gleaned from this site and member's messages my Deuce was finally restored to life Saturday . After previously reinstalling the chemically cleaned fuel tank, new filters, etc I transferred a used hydraulic head from a pump I scored on Ebay a few weeks ago.

I ran all the operational checks on the 'new' head before I pulled it off the donor pump and everything seemed to be functioning properly. I also went ahead and added a new set of NOS injector lines from TNJ Murray. Number one was pulled at the injector to begin the bleeding of all six per the manual but the truck started to hit right off so I buttoned #1 up and she fired and settled down as smooth as she did when I first took delivery.

Moral to this story, even when you get the 'gift' of a full tank of goverment diesel that has been sitting for two years dump it and make sure you don't have rust problems in the tank.

Post script to the weekend's events: After a satisfying day of wrenching on Saturday (and more planned for Sunday) I passed a kidney stone and ended up in the emergency room Sunday morning around 4 a.m. That hurt like hell but everything seems to be o.k. now and can't wait to get back to the truck to finish up some of the other details that were put aside for the fuel problem, i.e. new air line for the pressure gauge and repair or replacement of the tach cable.

 

[erock13]

gear thrust washer

I need the "gear thrust washer" in the bottom of the head. does any one know where i can get just the washer or do i have to buy a whole new head? its on a 85 am general.

 

[Floridianson]

Get me a pic or diagram of what you need. I checked with Santa and he said you were a good boy this year, so he said if I had the part it would be fine to send it too you. No charge.

 

[Collin B Brown]

Can you send me the link where I can see how to take the hydraulic head apart