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Deuce rear axle brake lockup..... Help please!!!
- Thread starter bigreddeuce
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bigreddeuce
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And that sir is why I have been enjoying this site! All of the information..... So, replace with new style airpack or rebuild old style?
bigreddeuce
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Ok, let's go with no experience ( since I've never been around the deuce) So I will rebuild the MC and replace the airpack
I just replaced one of the two airpacks on my Air Force truck and it was quick and easy. Just remove the old one, move over all the fittings to the new one, bolt it in and hook all the lines back to the new pack. I plan on rebuilding my old one in the future as a spare.
Rebuild kit was about $120-40 (lots of little parts.
) and a NOS airpack was about $450is. I bought mine from Erick military surplus. http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/mivepa.html
There was a TM insert noting that you should lube your air packs. It was the blond chick correcting the maintenance team that "we now lubricate" the air packs. But I can't find the page/cartoon insert. It isn't a grease zert, I assume you would use a very light oil, but have never done it. The airpack comes packed with some light oil in it from storage. I believe the idea is to lubricate the dry side of the airpack that doesn't touch the brake fluid.
Note that I replaced my airpack, because the seal was going out and fluid was getting past the cylinder and into the vent tube. (i.e., I was blowing brake fluid out of the vent line in the engine compartment.
(Found the insert... attached)
Rebuild kit was about $120-40 (lots of little parts.
) and a NOS airpack was about $450is. I bought mine from Erick military surplus. http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/mivepa.htmlThere was a TM insert noting that you should lube your air packs. It was the blond chick correcting the maintenance team that "we now lubricate" the air packs. But I can't find the page/cartoon insert. It isn't a grease zert, I assume you would use a very light oil, but have never done it. The airpack comes packed with some light oil in it from storage. I believe the idea is to lubricate the dry side of the airpack that doesn't touch the brake fluid.
Note that I replaced my airpack, because the seal was going out and fluid was getting past the cylinder and into the vent tube. (i.e., I was blowing brake fluid out of the vent line in the engine compartment.
(Found the insert... attached)
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the air line going in is a good place for a FEW drops of AIR TOOL oil, there is a fitting that can be removed for the same reason, Ijust found it was easier to pop the line, lube, then hook the line back up, besides my fitting was FROZE and not worth messen with sinse the line was easy to get to
DeucesWild11
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So I have finally gotten around to replacing my split brake house in the front, at the same time broke off the brake line going to the wheel so replaced that as well. Now the second time around I bleeded the airpack first and then the wheels, I got the same kind of blow-off as Mike929 mentioned above from the vent tube in the engine compartment.
I tested the brakes and everything feels great now.. Is my airpack faulty because I had that blow-off?
I noticed something coming out of that tube when I first bought the truck as well. Not sure if the really badly split brake hose in the front contributed to the axles locking up or if it's the airpack..?
Any input here is much appreciated.
PS: How does the new line look to you, I saw in the TM that one of the brackets should be bent at a 45 degree angle to better fit the new longer hose but couldn't see how that worked here..
I tested the brakes and everything feels great now.. Is my airpack faulty because I had that blow-off?
I noticed something coming out of that tube when I first bought the truck as well. Not sure if the really badly split brake hose in the front contributed to the axles locking up or if it's the airpack..?
Any input here is much appreciated.
PS: How does the new line look to you, I saw in the TM that one of the brackets should be bent at a 45 degree angle to better fit the new longer hose but couldn't see how that worked here..
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Heavysteven
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Some photo's of mine
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Are you sure that is the right line, it looks a bit long
DeucesWild11
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The TM states that the newer version is longer to prevent splitting. I checked the number on line and it matches up.. Any ideas on the Airpack issue I experienced.?
Heavysteven
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If brake fluid is coming out the airpack vent you have a problem. You should be able to press the brake pedal in and out, then hear air venting from the pack. I made a video on youtube if you want to listen to mine. It's M35A2 Airpack
DeucesWild11
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I'll try pumping mine like you did with yours in the video and see if it sounds the same. That video was very informative by the way, thank you. The Airpack was only venting through the Vent Tube in the engine compartment, that long tube that runs down the pass side of the engine. I only noticed it doing it when I was finishing up bleeding the whole system.. The brakes seem to work 100% now but I don't want a problem on the street.. Thanks again 
DeucesWild11
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I decided I am not going to chance it and just ordered a rebuild kit for the airpack from Eriks. Going to try that and see where it gets me. I think it doesn't matter how you bleed the system there should never be any brake fluid coming out that breather line.. at least that's what I have been reading..
DeucesWild11
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Thanks for the confirmation.. I have learned so much about this truck over the past few months.. Thank you for your help, you have chimed in a bunch of times I have asked question. And thank you to everyone else! Sorry didn't mean to hijack the original thread but didn't want to start a new one on the exact same topic!
Missed most of the conversation, but after you rebuild the Airpack and install it, be aware that there may be some brake fluid from the previous brake bleeding exercise in the vent tube. Don't worry if you see some misting of brake fluid as you start bleeding your brakes again with the rebuilt air pack.