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Deuce Tips and Tricks!

Wild Bill

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Try at your own risk: We run 54 deuces on our Fremont County Volunteer Fire Dept. (9,000 + sq. miles
of coverage) and use them mostly on wild land fires. These trucks get used and abused. But we come up
with a lot of unique fixes and field expediant cures. One is when the steering gear box starts leaking,
we drain the go90 and fill it with axle grease (make sure you don't get air pockets in it). Then just
check it a few times a year. It usually does not leak again and we have never had a problem. A lot
easier than all the work that goes into replacing the seal.

Wild Bill
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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GA Mountains
Here are a few roadtrip thoughts that popped back into my head on my roadtrip. If you want to reduce the heat sneaking into the cab through the various holes and cracks, close all the windows and vents and open a windshield. It will pressurize the cab and blow stuff out those holes. On the opposite end, in the cold you can open the little hinge looking device for the winch pto shifter to allow more hot air into the cab. Be careful not to bump the lever though. Don't forget your headlights! All 3 of them! Carry a spare to prevent one of yours from going out. Also pick up one of those cheap (nowadays) head mounted lights. Beats fabbing up a dome light and works everywhere you do. Great for checking arounf the cab or eating in the cab after dark. You'll really thank me if you break down. Don't forget that tire chock either!
 

Opie

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Salem, VA
Here's the short list of things I've learned as a non-MV person after picking up my shop van and driving it home:

* Learn how to use your light switches and flashers. You'll need flashers for portions of any highway trip, and you can wind up travelling later in the evening than you thought you would and need reliable headlights.

* Put a WORKING flashlight/head lamp on your must-have list (see above).

* Bring a hat/sunglasses. Deuces don't have sun visors.

* The shift lever for the high/low ranges can be EASILY bumped into neutral, meaning the truck won't go into gear and move. This leaves the newbie to think, "OH S**T! My clutch has died!" while still 275 miles from home. Breathe, pull up on the lever and try again.

* When you open the fuel tank cap on my truck there is a filler tube that can be pulled out of the tank by the chain attaching the cap to the truck. Pull it up and twist it (?clockwise/counter-clockwise?) to lock it in the up position so the diesel pump nozzle doesn't stick far down into your tank and make you fill the last ten gallons by holding the nozzle over the tank because the pressure-activated switch keeps shutting off the flow of fuel. (Keep an eye open so you don't overfill!)

* A chase car can help hold back traffic for a newbie when changing lanes, tell you you've lost your lights, or take you home when BAD THINGS happen. (See above...again!)

* Brush your teeth because you'll be SMILING a LOT that you've finally got your truck.
 

da_sgt

Member
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Location
Rifle, Colorado
Opie<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_rotfl.gif" alt="ROTFL"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_rotfl.gif" alt="ROTFL"> Very classic<img src="emoticons/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile"> At one point or another, "We Have All" been there<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_smashed.gif" alt="Smashed"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink">
 

MVtrucker

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Bridgeton, NJ
When dealing with an outside flat, just place a 2x8 in front or back of the inside tire and drive up on it. No jack needed and it'll be solid so you can work on the lugs. Use a bar to lift the tire and wheel when installing, it'll save your back. When pulling a tire and wheel off of the hub, place yourself so your back is towards it, then lift and slide it out and off the hub. Easier, and there's no chance of you falling backwards and having the tire fall onto you like when facing it.


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Opie

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Location
Salem, VA
Military Vehicle Canvas Do's and Don'ts

My seats looked ok, but a little grungy. Ran them through the washing machine on the delicate cycle.

Wrong move.

Co-Driver seatback - unwashed

Co-driver seat bottom - washed and "distressed" as they say of blue jeans in the fashion industry...

Driver seatback - completely dissolved :shakehead:

Per Judith Peach at New Life Resource:


You found out the hard way that military truck canvas can't be washed....the way the dye and finish is put on the canvas makes it so it doesn't wash well.

The only real way to clean the stuff is either by brushing the dirt off with a stiff brush or hosing with clear water. If you rub the canvas when it's wet, the color and water/mildew resistant finish comes off since it's only on the surface - not dyed through. You're not the first person to run their seat covers through the washing machine, though!

The passenger seat back cushion has a heavy wire rim or frame inside the canvas. So, to get the cushion out of the seat frame, you just need to take a large screwdriver or flat prybar and slip it between the edge of the cushion and the metal seat frame. You should be able to pop the cushion out of the metal frame surrounding it. You'll notice a couple of tabs formed into the metal seat frame that hold the cushion in place.

Then, the canvas should have a drawstring closure on the back that you can release to take the canvas off. Sometimes, canvas that has been replaced since new will have some other kind of attachment method, but you'll be able to figure it out once you get the cushion out of the seat frame.

Sincerely,

Judith Peach

New Life Resource

418 Main St. North, PO Box 176

Bakersfield, VT, USA 05441

Phone: 802-827-6124 Fax: 802-827-3660 email: nlrm@together.net
 

cranetruck

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,350
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Location
Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Peter, you may have saved my old Vitnam era canvas medical kit! I was going to wash it on the "cold" cycle, but sure as heck isn't going to do that after reading your post. It smells a it moldy so I'll just weather it in the sun instead.
Thanks!
 

Loose Deuce

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Location
South MS.
I've used the high pressure car washer to clean all my canvas items, and it does a good job for me. Just use good sense and dont hold the tip of the pressure washer too close and damage the material. Does good on old field gear like pistol belts and such. If you have a real grimey piece you can soak it with your favorite cleaning material before washing.
 

red devils dude

New member
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Location
Ft Campbell
hey guys I got the NAPA 60-750(wiper arm) and 60-11-011(wiper blade)all figured out
NAPA blades with UK and A #2 on e'm are the WRONG ONE'S you need the one'd that
say TRICO and #1 if you go to advance auto parts or pep boy's ETC ETC and get
A Trico Exact Fit 11-1 blade they fit on the narrow bayonet perfectly this is going in deuce tips and tricks.
now I see that sixbuy said the same thing O well.
Somebody said:
AH HA! Not all 60-011-1 blades are created equal! I have two that are different! The swivels where it slides on the arm are different! The one that flops around is stamped "Made in UK" and has the number "2" across the slot. The other that fits perfectly is stamped "TRICO england" and has the number "1" ! Caveat Emptor! Why me?
 

ironhorsethegeneral

New member
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Location
Acworth, GA
We had problems getting the fuel line between primarry fuel filter and injection pump. We went to a hydralic hose shop and they made us up a hose right on the spot. Granted between the primary fuel filter and pump is low pressure this hose should last a long time. Only had to re-route a llittle. Hope this helps everyone. [thumbzup]


<HR align=left width="50%" SIZE=1>
 

Opie

New member
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Location
Salem, VA
I'll be changing the oil on Opie's Folly for the first time tomorrow.
I didn't find anything on topic in a search of the forum, so here goes:

How long does it need to sit for the oil to drain enough to change the filters without a mess? Fifteen minutes? An hour?
Any other tips on the process for a newbie?

Thanks!
 

Desert Rat

New member
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Opie;
As far as the change goes I usually warm the engine up a bit first so the oil escapes more efficiently. Then after pulling the drain plug I wait until the oil stops dripping. The filter canisters usually make a mess during removal. However, be careful when you reinstall them. If you do not secure them in their proper position to the o-ring seated on the base within two seconds of starting the engine you WILL have a huge mess on the right side of the engine and the ground below. Trust me I know this (how you ask?) from personal experience. Don't forget to remove the rear drain plug after you drain the front pan. There is spent oil in the rear pan too. Plus you need to replace the small O-ring in the filter housing too.

Good luck!
 
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