Deuce turbo questions

[GoHot229]

I have a couple questions about the turbo on the Deuce. #1. Is there an oil or additive that would be beneficial to de-coke the bearings and internals of the turbo? like say.....Lucas or Mystery or some injector cleaner or what-not? I always time my shutdowns, typically with the last bit of driving, say the last quarter mile in second or third at idle, and idle onto my property, easy to do as I'm out in the country and It's not holding up trafic, and having rolled up to my parking spot, I idle for 3-4 additional minates before pulling the cable to kill the motor. I have no indications of anything awray, but I want to keep it that way, ie. no coking. #2. Is there a certain thing to look for in ID'ing the two different turbos, or years that they likely were used, IE. the C or the D models, something like a different fitting, hose, guard, shape, or? that readily identifies one or the other, aside from the obvious whistle? I, myself have a Deuce that whistles, even with the NAPA aftermarket muffler, so I'm supposing it is obviously a whistler. By the way, I like the exhaust note of this 'supposed' whistler with the muffler, it whistles enough to attract looks, but is easy enough on the publc to not cause frowns while driving in town. And sort of unrelated dirrectly, a good source for an in-tank fuel pump and also a source for a member here who rebuilds the turbos for these Deuce's. Looking through the different suppliers, the fuel pump seems to be difficult to locate for the most part. I'v looked at Saturn, Erik's TJ Murry, Eastern, and whatever I could come up on a yahoo search, the best I found was a POR listing, 'price on request'. from Saturn and Eastern.

 

[ken]

The best thing you can do for your turbo is exactly what you are doing. Let it cool before shutting it off. As far as a cleaner to remove the coking? No i have to sand blast it off with glass beads. It hardnes after a while and won't come off with a solvent.
The "C" model was before the "D". As far as what years? It's hard to say because they were rebuilt and reused with rebuilt engines. So no matter what year truck you have, you could have a rebuilt engine. Or one converted from a A1.
The "D" is slightly larger and quieter. You won't see any performace difference between the two without adjusting the fuel rate. The "D" can move more CFM's but not much more PSI. And it will run cooler at the bearing. It has a extra heat shield and a better oil flow than the "C". It can tolerate much more abuse that the "C". Both higher temps and hotter shutdowns. If your not having any problems and your properly shutting it down. Then your "C" should last as long as the engine.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

I believe I heard Jwaller rebuilds turbos...

You can tell a C from a D by looking at the exhaust side- if it is about the same width from top to bottom, with a slight taper towards the bottome, it is a D. If it is more of a V shape, it is a C.

 

[JTugwell]

i always time my warm up's and shut downs. i might even let it warm up for 30 mins before i drive if i have time when its cold. I do have a question that i havent been able to find. i understand the cool down time, and know that it must be done, but what about the warm up time. is it necessary to wait 5 mins before driving say after its been run all day, and just shut down for an hour? it seems like the oil would still be coating everything pretty well.

 

[GoHot229]

Since you mention it, when I start, I have one rocker arm slightly taping when cold, as it warms, which is about 4-5 minuates, that is the point which I think of taking off, pluss I needen't go quickly to higher throtle right away as its all rural and that afords me a slow acent to speed.

 

[Keith_J]

The turbo on the LDS 465 series is so lightly used that coking isn't a problem. Diesel exhaust is much cooler than gasoline engines during part throttle use.

But if you are pulling a trailer with the accelerator pedal mashed to the floorboard, letting the engine cool for 5 minutes is a great idea.

Remember, this is a diesel engine which means there is no throttle plate so there is always a full cylinder of aiir. At idle, there is only a tiny bit of fuel injected, making the exhaust temp in the 200 F range. Or cooler.

 

[crazyplowboy]

There are good pictures here that will show the differences in the turbos.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/16562-turbo-classification.html

If you are looking for an intank fuel pump I would go with Olympic Controls. I got a brand new (not NOS) one from them for $225, I got it on my porch about 4 or 5 days later.

Olympic Controls Corp