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Diablo Build Update (pics)

devilman96

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Doing a lot of electrical and test fitting today durring this "huge and deadly storm" as the news calls it were having... Boring stuff but the seats set up I have to brag about a bit...

I have been worried to death that these would not work or there would be some huge snag with the seats or bases or something. Turns out it all falls together perfectly, even the set belt set up, angles, mounting locations... I don't think it could be any better. The power stuff makes it really nice, especially the height and angle adjustments. 4'8" or 6'3" you could drive with these and very comfortably. Aside from the AC and PS I think these will be the biggest improvement to the drivability of the truck.
 

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Recovry4x4

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LOL, thats funny! The huge and deadly storm has been working on us too. I'll bet we lost at least 50 pine needles, maybe a hundred.
 

devilman96

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Well the engine is alive and kicking again... Some good and some bad things though... The electric fans, shroud, relay, thermo switch, work GREAT... Wiring is all working right, both charging systems are kicking and taking names... The power steering pump is sucking wind though... gonna try and see if TNJ will replace it but I kinda doubt it being that I bought it 4 months ago. I was sooooo looking forward to being able to DRIVE it in and out v/s pushing it but I guess it will be a few more days. Without the dash to support the top of the colum its kinda hard to manual steer it.

On the fans... I had installed a 206 degree switch in the bottom of the radiator and wired in a relay. This seems to be working like a dream and pretty much opens when the thermostat does and closes shortly there after shutting the fans down... I would say the run time at idle is about 40% of the time on, and my digital IR thermo showed the temp holding at 180 after an hour of idling... Good for what I need with ambient temperatures of 100 in summer and a AC system.
 

devilman96

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Some more progress.... Many many many things are going on... Doors are stripped and waiting to be cut for the power accessories, cab is almost finished for paint, all but the floor is insulated, had some cool ideas for door hinges and hood hinges (nylon bushings) Ken has installed one door on his wrecker with them today has seems pretty elated at the results. (what I wouldn't give to be installing my doors right now).

The long awaited air box for the AC system is finally in the fire wall... I got a few different angles on the pics so you can see how, what, when and why on location, height, depth, etc... The outside pic is a little misleading, the expansion valve's fitting goes upward and I have an exhaust shield to go on the manifold yet. Ether way the clearance is tight but very workable... As of right now I would have to say short of cutting a 2.5X6" hole in the fire wall you could install this AC on a stock deuce using the methods I am and make no other permanent modifications to the truck.... Which is pretty cool IMHO. Stock fan, radiator, etc... So far the only change I think I would go back and make would be to ask Danhard to build it with the inlets and outlets 1.5+" shorter. Its hard to see but I had to install a 1.5" spacer between the air box and the firewall to get clearance under the hood which makes the box stick out into the cab a bit more but Im not going to bother shipping it back for that...

Its moving... Its killing me... but its moving...
 

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Recovry4x4

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Looks good. Routing ductwork looks like its going to be a PITA. Other than that, looks like things are getting close. As for the door hinges, yeah, they work great. No more ungreasable metal to metal stuff here and no way for the hinge bolts to freeze up. One door complete, 3 to go! One of my gripes is the nasty, rusty noisy hood hinges. Mike already did the same with his hood hinges using the nylon shouldered bushings and man, they are sweet. Just one more thing to add to the list of "I want to do that".
 

doghead

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It looks like you have combined the starter push button and the power switch. If this is so, how did you wire it up? Could you post a diagram or more info ? I just thought others would like to know also. (one more topic for a good tech article).



Also, yesterday I installed original type seat covers in one of my deuces. When my a$$ and back are giving out on longer drives, I'm going to dream of those sweet seats you have and try to make it home !!! Lookin' good !
 

devilman96

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I sent Mike the TA for the hinge mod and for M35 master cylinders... Give him a few days to look them over and approve my lunacy and he will post it in the TA section...

I had a complete wiring schematic drawn for the switch and for adding a 12V system but managed to loose a few files a month or so ago. I will re-draw it but it will probably take a while before I have that much time to sit in one spot... I have had one for the clutch 90% finished sitting on my desk top for weeks now avoiding it lol... Its easy to whip something out but I try to make TA stuff understandable reguardless of ones technical ability and that takes some time... If it is something you need due to kids or the likes I can PM you a quickie "hot to" that should be clear enough...
 

doghead

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No rush, I just thought it would be a good thing to have here for anyone wanting to convert to a key switch. I'm also looking forward to reading the ta on the clutch job and I'm in no rush to do it now.(for now new gl1 from napa has "fixed" the input shaft leak)
 

devilman96

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Yeah... I've been lazy with posting sorry...

I am on hold with painting the cab, I have been held up on getting to Orlando for the past 2 weeks having to cover for other people at work... I have to make some parts for the windshield frame and doors (window frames)... Tomorrow I HOPE I will be headed in that direction!

Sheet metal, sheet metal, and MORE sheet metal... All but one fender is finished and awaiting final sanding and paint. Some parts will get the underside done in polymer, some will just get bolted back on... I have TIRED to be as patient with the body work as possible while still keeping in mind its a MV. I have fixed all of the rust by cutting it out and patching it back in, the dents are gone, ALL of the seams (over lapping sheet metal) on every part have been sealed off with seam sealer, etc, etc... It should look really good for a LONG time down the road.

As for the rest... all of the powder coating is done... Which means every small part on the whole truck is now finished and waiting to be bolted on... I can not even begin to tell you the undertaking that has been!!! It is one chapter I am VERY glad to have behind me... 13 lbs of powder applied total and if I might say so... They look pretty damn good for old MV parts!!

If I can get all that I need to done this weekend I should be shooting color early next week... There after you will see the fastest one man MV reassembly in history.
 

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Recovry4x4

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Wow Mike, great find on the hood numbers. Hate to keep asking, has the hydraulic steering pump issue been resolved yet? To everyone else, all the little (and not so little) parts Mike has blasted and powdercoated look fantastic. Not one item removed from the truck has been overlooked. Every single piece coming off has been completely examined, rebuilt refinished and if it had seals, resealed. Is he seroius about the power windows and door solenoids? You bet! I have 2 like new window regulators in my grubby hands as well as door handles and window cranks. If all y'all remember Tom Bauer's CAT powered millenium Reo, this thing is just as nice and just as crafty but in a different direction. When its done, it should really attract attention especially from the purists. Would love to be a fly on the wall at Aberdeen as folks looked it over.
 

devilman96

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Pump is resolved... Kinda... I called TNJ about 6 times and kept getting the answering machine... I refuse to leave messages, I just hate voice mail and cant get why a busses can not answer during business hours... Im not bitchin about them as much as I just have a thing about phones in general...

I gave up calling and used civilian numbers (VTM-42), turns out it is used mostly in marine but is in a few other trucks here and there. Long story short I bought a brand new one for $135... Couldn't pass that up.

Up side... Still spent less that a reman from a surplus dealer and in having to research the pump I found PFD's for the pump specs, parts break downs, etc from Eaton which I know a few people have tired to get before... I will post them in a TA for the PS conversion (one of these years)...
 

devilman96

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I've tried all sorts of brands trying to get a good strip which would include everything both Home Depot, Lowes and Sherman Williams sells, ... Best I have come up with thus far is "BIX Tough Job Remover" solid at home depot... I use to strip aircraft as a kid so having to use a store bought stripper is killing me to some extent!!! There is something to be said about methodology in the process too. CARC is a joke, resistant to what? I have to ask because it flys off with a little degreaser and 5000 psi of water. The older OD I am guessing from paints I've experience in stripping is a alkyd based enamel and does not like to lift (peel) at all...

A few things about it though... If you do not have a PROFESSIONAL pressure washer don't bother trying, 13HP+. Also once you start stripping you are committed to finishing it. Stripper makes the paint soft and pliable so sand blasting will be that much harder due to the paint absorbing the sands impact like rubber or plastic. It still comes off but "ugh" at the amount of time and sand it will take.

SO far its taken about 10 gallons to do everything but the cab... I am cringing at the bed though!!!

Other news... My Orlando trip got delayed (gurrrr) but I can complain, it involves one of my friend's grand son whom has a heart condition so the only regret I feel is for him and his family... His help on toys will come later.
 

rdixiemiller

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Find someone with an ultrahigh pressure washer. They are usually 40Kpsi and will strip anything. Set the regulator on about 30Kpsi with a rotary head and you can take the truck down to bare metal in short order. I stripped a 20' covered horsetrailer, inside and out, in 3 hours. It removes all paint, rust, wiring, tires, wood, etc. You definately want to be careful!
Rates up here are usually $150 an hour with an operator, I get the friend of a friend discount, usually about $75 an hour.
Metro Environmental has them, I believe they are in S Fla as well.
 
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