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Did I use the wrong coolant?

Maxjeep1

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I remember when life was simple, gasoline had lead, cigarettes were healthy, only pinko communists smoked marijuana, and antifreeze was just green antifreeze.

After reading all of this I, like several of the other posters here, am more confused now than ever and I have no idea what to choose.

“Where have you gone, Joe DiMaggio/Our nation turns its lonely eyes to you…”
Cats don’t even like the new green stuff
 

diesel_dave

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Well they are not talking about OUR Detroits, that is in the "heavy duty diesel" category, they are talking big truck diesels
Not saying it will not be fine, I thought I knew something about antifreeze turns out I don't..
Haha, yes.. there is just a *BIT* of a difference between a GEP-built light duty engine and a REAL 2-stroke Detroit Diesel but I still found some reassurance that it would be compatible with the iron blocks and heads used in those kinds of heavy duty diesel engines. Some of the other available options definitely appear to be more focused to modern all aluminum and plastic powertrains which the 6.5 certainly is not.
 

Mogman

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Haha, yes.. there is just a *BIT* of a difference between a GEP-built light duty engine and a REAL 2-stroke Detroit Diesel but I still found some reassurance that it would be compatible with the iron blocks and heads used in those kinds of heavy duty diesel engines. Some of the other available options definitely appear to be more focused to modern all aluminum and plastic powertrains which the 6.5 certainly is not.
I doubt they were talking about the 2 stroke diesels, those were phased out long before HOAT came along, they are talking about the DDs classified by Liters not Cubic Inches.
I have a hell of a time finding oil I can run in my 2 strokes, this "modern" stuff will kill them, life is tough on us old folks...
 

simp5782

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I doubt they were talking about the 2 stroke diesels, those were phased out long before HOAT came along, they are talking about the DDs classified by Liters not Cubic Inches.
I have a hell of a time finding oil I can run in my 2 strokes, this "modern" stuff will kill them, life is tough on us old folks...
You obviously have never been around any 6.9 or 7.3 IDIs. They have to use low silicate with SCA additive due to cavitation. Not an issue in thr 6.2s but coolant types can be specific to smaller engines that aren't wet sleeve either.
 

Mogman

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You obviously have never been around any 6.9 or 7.3 IDIs. They have to use low silicate with SCA additive due to cavitation. Not an issue in thr 6.2s but coolant types can be specific to smaller engines that aren't wet sleeve either.
Not sure how we got from 2 stroke Detroits to FORDS?
 

simp5782

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Not sure how we got from 2 stroke Detroits to FORDS?
It was in your reference to big diesel engines from earlier. That everything applies to big engines.

The Ford 6.9 isn't much different from the 6.2. Share lots of parts.

And the cavitation problem isn't just limited to big detroit 2 stroke engines.
 

Action

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I have different types of antifreeze here. The dexcool 50/50 is silicate and phosphate free. It uses demineralized water. I do not see any mention of OAT anything on the bottle. States safe to use with aluminum and plastics. Why do people avoid this?
 

Mogman

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It was in your reference to big diesel engines from earlier. That everything applies to big engines.

The Ford 6.9 isn't much different from the 6.2. Share lots of parts.

And the cavitation problem isn't just limited to big detroit 2 stroke engines.
Please go back and read again, I never said the 2 stroke Detroits had a cavitation issue, if so they would have been in real big trouble as they were out at least 40-50 years before cavitation ever became an issue.
I did reference the ZEREX label that had a list of "heavy duty diesel" engines and commented that was probably directed at the "Detroit" engine we are discussing..
 
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simp5782

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Please go back and read again, I never said the 2 stroke Detroits had a cavitation issue, if so they would have been in real big trouble as they were out at least 40-50 years before cavitation ever became an issue
The coolant is recommended for detroit diesel and it does not apply to the 6.2s. That's what you said. Let's get it straight. However it does. Every diesel engine has cavatation problems. Why do you think they have wet liners in Detroits? Like every other big engine so cavitation doesn't cause a catastrophic issue for an engine designed for lots of miles.

Low silicate antifreeze does fall out and gell is only bad part about it.


read lots of your posts on here from your builds to shipping issues and by far you are one of the most ignorant posters on here to give people certain advice in my opinion.

You say you can't find oil for your 2 stroke? SAE40 is very readily available for about $16 a gallon shipped to your door in Delvac. That includes overnight shipping . Inventory shows a quantity of 460 between 4 warehouses in south texas. You obviously shop in the wrong places. So I will add you to the list of members on my ignore list.
 

Maxjeep1

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The coolant is recommended for detroit diesel and it does not apply to the 6.2s. That's what you said. Let's get it straight. However it does. Every diesel engine has cavatation problems. Why do you think they have wet liners in Detroits? Like every other big engine so cavitation doesn't cause a catastrophic issue for an engine designed for lots of miles.

Low silicate antifreeze does fall out and gell is only bad part about it.


read lots of your posts on here from your builds to shipping issues and by far you are one of the most ignorant posters on here to give people certain advice in my opinion.

You say you can't find oil for your 2 stroke? SAE40 is very readily available for about $16 a gallon shipped to your door in Delvac. That includes overnight shipping . Inventory shows a quantity of 460 between 4 warehouses in south texas. You obviously shop in the wrong places. So I will add you to the list of members on my ignore list.
I think that’s really harsh and doesn’t have any place here. You are smart and knowledgeable but it doesn’t give you the right to insult someone because you disagree with him. New people read stuff like that and they are less likely to ever post here. I don’t know anything compared to Mogman and there’s probably members here that know less than I do. Should we just all wait around for you to speak? Add me to your very long list of people to ignore.
 

simp5782

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I think that’s really harsh and doesn’t have any place here. You are smart and knowledgeable but it doesn’t give you the right to insult someone because you disagree with him. New people read stuff like that and they are less likely to ever post here. I don’t know anything compared to Mogman and there’s probably members here that know less than I do. Should we just all wait around for you to speak? Add me to your very long list of people to ignore.
Don't steer people in the wrong direction with something you know nothing about and you won't have that issue.
 

diesel_dave

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After thinking about it for FAR TOO LONG, I decided to take back the Zerex G05 and get Zerex Original Green coolant instead. I was on the fence over whether I even needed to worry about swapping out the Prestone Any Make Any Model stuff, but I finally decided to do it and boy was I glad I did!

To recap, when I originally drained the green coolant that the truck came with, there was absolutely no sediment whatsoever. I did two tap water (whole house water filter and softened water) flushes and two distilled water flushes. The water was coming out with no cloudiness or sediment, just diminishing amounts of green color until it was clear with the last two flushes. At that point I poured in 3.5 gallons of the Prestone AMAM stuff and made up the rest with distilled water. I had that in there for about three weeks and didn't worry about it until I read that the Prestone stuff was basically reduced strength Dexcool which concerned me.

Today, when I drained out the Prestone AMAM stuff, it came out very cloudy which was surprising. I did a tap water flush and it came out as a nasty grey liquid. So I did another and it was the same so I did another. And another... It took a total of SIX tap water flushes to get the water to start coming out clean. When I put some of the cloudy water in a cup and let it settle out, there was some kind of grey silty powder left behind. After the six tap water flushes, I did two distilled water flushes and it was still coming out clean so I poured in 3.5 gallons of Zerex Original Green and made up the difference with distilled water. So hopefully it is good to go now as long as nothing is clogged up with that nasty silty stuff.

So yeah... I'm not sure what the hell was going on with the Prestone stuff. I don't know if that is stuff (rust?) that came out of the engine because it corroded over the last few weeks or if its stuff that precipitated out of the Prestone AMAM coolant for some reason? I honestly have no idea, but I do know I did not want that silt flowing through my cooling system and clogging everything up. One thing is for sure and that is that I won't be using that Prestone stuff anymore. Hopefully there isn't any lasting damage.
 

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Action

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After thinking about it for FAR TOO LONG, I decided to take back the Zerex G05 and get Zerex Original Green coolant instead. I was on the fence over whether I even needed to worry about swapping out the Prestone Any Make Any Model stuff, but I finally decided to do it and boy was I glad I did!

To recap, when I originally drained the green coolant that the truck came with, there was absolutely no sediment whatsoever. I did two tap water (whole house water filter and softened water) flushes and two distilled water flushes. The water was coming out with no cloudiness or sediment, just diminishing amounts of green color until it was clear with the last two flushes. At that point I poured in 3.5 gallons of the Prestone AMAM stuff and made up the rest with distilled water. I had that in there for about three weeks and didn't worry about it until I read that the Prestone stuff was basically reduced strength Dexcool which concerned me.

Today, when I drained out the Prestone AMAM stuff, it came out very cloudy which was surprising. I did a tap water flush and it came out as a nasty grey liquid. So I did another and it was the same so I did another. And another... It took a total of SIX tap water flushes to get the water to start coming out clean. When I put some of the cloudy water in a cup and let it settle out, there was some kind of grey silty powder left behind. After the six tap water flushes, I did two distilled water flushes and it was still coming out clean so I poured in 3.5 gallons of Zerex Original Green and made up the difference with distilled water. So hopefully it is good to go now as long as nothing is clogged up with that nasty silty stuff.

So yeah... I'm not sure what the hell was going on with the Prestone stuff. I don't know if that is stuff (rust?) that came out of the engine because it corroded over the last few weeks or if its stuff that precipitated out of the Prestone AMAM coolant for some reason? I honestly have no idea, but I do know I did not want that silt flowing through my cooling system and clogging everything up. One thing is for sure and that is that I won't be using that Prestone stuff anymore. Hopefully there isn't any lasting damage.
Why are you not diluting the antifreeze BEFORE you pour it in?
Will it mix on its own after pouring them in separate?
 
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diesel_dave

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Why are you not diluting the antifreeze BEFORE you pour it in?
Will it mix on its own after pouring them in separate?
There is no reason to believe it won't mix after a few seconds of running the water pump. Plus, you can't dilute it so there's also that. Total system capacity is ~7 gallons. Pour in 3.5 gallons of coolant and it's full because only ~3.5 comes out leaving the other 3.5 in the block, radiator, etc. If you dilute it to 50/50, then you'd only be able to get 1.75 gallons of coolant in. Hopefully that makes sense.
 

simp5782

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There is no reason to believe it won't mix after a few seconds of running the water pump. Plus, you can't dilute it so there's also that. Total system capacity is ~7 gallons. Pour in 3.5 gallons of coolant and it's full because only ~3.5 comes out leaving the other 3.5 in the block, radiator, etc. If you dilute it to 50/50, then you'd only be able to get 1.75 gallons of coolant in. Hopefully that makes sense.
Put the cap back on it. Stick an air blower in it with about 15psi max It will push more out. Can do it with small lines on top and it ll force it to the drains

Good way to test the pressure relief in the cap too
 

diesel_dave

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Put the cap back on it. Stick an air blower in it with about 15psi max It will push more out. Can do it with small lines on top and it ll force it to the drains

Good way to test the pressure relief in the cap too
I did that the first time with my air compressor. Maybe a cup or two more came out but it didn't seem worth the trouble to do it again. I'm not sure where those 3.5 gallons are hiding but they didn't want to come out. Maybe next time I'll try jacking up the rear a few inches to see if any more comes out.
 

blutow

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After thinking about it for FAR TOO LONG, I decided to take back the Zerex G05 and get Zerex Original Green coolant instead. I was on the fence over whether I even needed to worry about swapping out the Prestone Any Make Any Model stuff, but I finally decided to do it and boy was I glad I did!
Why did you decide to ditch the Zerex G05 and go with original green? I returned my prestone "any make" and was leaning toward the g05 stuff.
 
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