Diesel additive

[OPCOM]

I add 1 quart of straight 30 wt non-detergent oil. It's cheaper than the $6 per quart additives.

 

[Armada]

I've always used Lucas diesel fuel products. I've never had a problem with components and the engines have always run smooooth so I guess it works. They also have an additive for the crankcase, and every other gear box. I use Lucas 80-90 gear oil too.
I won't use Mavel again. I added some to my Buicks' 3800 engine with 117,000 babied miles on it, and 2 weeks later it suddenly started knocking and in just a few seconds the rod broke at the crank. I can't prove it was caused by the Marvel, but I highly doubt it was a coincidence either.

 

[aboonski]

Sea Foam additive

I think this is what I was told to buy for my genset fuel tank by another GL customer up at Redstone Aresenal; he told me it was "expensive" and that it was - $8.00 for one 16 ounce can! I hope it does something for my genset after this investment! Smells just like denatured alcohol. Anybody else use this stuff?

 

[Gunworm]

I have been using MotorKote in the 18 wheeler for a while and also in my brother's Ford. they make an engine additive and a fuel additive. best stuff I have found so far. I just bought a bottle of each to toss in the CUCV when I get home.

 

[maybefixit]

I've used the SeaFoam stuff, aboonski, but only in gasoline engines. I had a golden opportunity to try it on an engine that had a sticking valve, but didn't know about the stuff then. Sure wish I had!

The engines I used it on were two Saab 4-cyls, one turbocharged and one not, and one GM 3.1L v6. In all cases, the engines ran well before and also after, no provable improvement.

Lately I have been using about 1/2 pint new ATF in the crankcase just before an oil change (like put it in, idle for 3 minutes) drain and change oil. It did seem to remove a lot of the crud from the oil pan the first time I used it, so far (20k miles, 5k oil change interval) no ill effects. I wouldn't dream of leaving it in there any longer than a short drive around the block though. With the engines in question being over 140k miles, I don't want to do things that are too drastic.

 

[aboonski]

Thanks for the reply maybefixit! I really have to deal with the rusty tank issue more than anything. I may try muriatic acid because only the bottom of the tank is rusty - probably water that sat in there for ages. I imagine I would have to flush the tank out over and over with water after the muriatic acid treatment and them blow dry the tank afterwards. I will try the Sea Foam to clean the injectors and lines because I have heard that is what it does best. Still waiting for our local NAPA to get my fuel filters in right now.

Alan

 

[trucker 1954]

Power Service diesel clean works good in older motors puts sulfer and centane back in

 

[EZFEED]

I add 1 quart of straight 30 wt non-detergent oil. It's cheaper than the $6 per quart additives.

Hey Op that sounds like a goodun. I assume you are using this to help protect the IP from being underlubed and not as a cleaner of any sorts?

 

[OPCOM]

Yes, only for IP lube. I'm not sue it would clean anything.

 

[maybefixit]

Alan, I'm not sure what to advise on the rust in the tank. I know for motorcycles they have a product to 'cream' the tank, where you clean out the rust and add a mixture that leaves a thick whitish paint-like coating in it. I haven't used that, since the two motorcycles I have fixed both had good clean tanks (so far). I've seen a few tanks that were treated with that though.

I remember being told that a tank can be steam cleaned, in the case of a '86 olds ciera with a bad fuel pump. One thing that might be worth checking would be to see if a plastic tank is available (if you don't mind the non-originality) or a whole new tank. Sometimes I'm surprised to find that a new fabricated part is available cheaper than trying to fix the old one.
Doing a google search from the hip, I found this page with tanks

http://www.racepages.com/products/?...+matchallpartial&N=9935+4294965581+2515&Nty=1

from $125 to $180. I've never used that page, and never bought from them, just noting the range. I've had to replace 2 fuel pumps in plastic tanks on a Dodge Dakota, and the plastic seemed to hold up well, no rusting, but it had a skid plate for protection.

I have been having very good luck with 3M's fuel system treatment, but again only in gas engines. I'm not sure that it can be used for diesel systems at all. I hope the seafoam does help, and that you get back on the road soon!

 

[Rebelpride]

I have used ND 30wt oil in my tanks but discovered this winter that below say 40 deg. the 30wt became like molasses or honey. Dont know if it does that when mixed with diesel.

 

[EZFEED]

Thanks for the reply maybefixit! I really have to deal with the rusty tank issue more than anything. I may try muriatic acid because only the bottom of the tank is rusty - probably water that sat in there for ages. I imagine I would have to flush the tank out over and over with water after the muriatic acid treatment and them blow dry the tank afterwards. I will try the Sea Foam to clean the injectors and lines because I have heard that is what it does best. Still waiting for our local NAPA to get my fuel filters in right now.

Alan

Dude, do you have a tractor/lawn tractor/etc? If so then pull your tank bungee cord it to one of the wheels of your tractor and then fill it with a handfull of gravel (sand and itsy bitsy pieces and all) and a couple quarts of muratic acid and you'll be done with it after your next cutting.
That slow churning of the acid with the gravel and little rocks and sand will polish out the inside of that tank to a sheen. Do it on all of mine and I do it once and its the end.
You should coat it with a liner and I recommend the fuel tank liner from www.por15.com I've used it for years now with zero flaking.

Some tanks are galvanized inside and I have been thinking about trying to do a reverse electrolysis type of galvanize if it works to one of my Farmall gas tanks. After cleaning it with the above method I was thinking of filling the tank with the electrolyte and instead of hanging a steel rod I was thinking about using a chunk of zinc (like an anode from WestMarine for boats) and then reversing polarity. It would seem to work and would give the inside of the tank a nice zinc coating????????????